Workbench Creations

I like the chalk lines on the wall showing the progressive draw.
And that graph is cool.
Nice job.

Wait a second, that looks like a human hand in the picture! I'm starting to wonder if Del is really a cat.

I've never had much interest in archery but I find this all very intriguing.

Is the graph showing data for when you gradually stress the bow before using ? Like over days ? I was just trying to figure the slight kinks in the lines, and finking if it correlated with weather....Daft, I know, but it's like the Clint Eastwood film - I got to know. Might be just down to some of the fibres giving, but for some idiotic reason I want to know if your bow acts as a barometer ! (beats digression to guns 'n' stuff ). Please don't tell me it's just time of day when you took readings, Ill be most upset if it's too obvious and I look silly.

The graphs are just done by winching (or pulling) the bow back on the tillering rig and reading off the distance and poundage (over a short a time as possible, 'cos bows don't like being held at full stretch...remember the one that smashed?)...there's a fair bit of error due to parallax and the spring balance being a cheapo job, but it's still pretty.

I just took some figures from one of my crossbows but the graph is too scary to show you guys (although in your current personna...)
Del

Oh well if you insist....The area under each curve is idicative of the stored energy in the bow... just look at that sucker top left bearing in mind I couldn't take it the last inch 'cos it was off the end of my spring balance.

Looking good sofar, do you make the arrows also if yes, did you notice any difference in using different materials for arrows?

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I make my arrows from Port Orford Cedar shafts which I buy.
Shafts are rated by stiffness (spine) in pounds relating to the draw weight of the bow.
The stiffness of the arrow needs to match the power of the bow, as the arrow has to flex around the bow (I've posted videos of this effect) you can google or you tube 'Archer's paradox' to see more about this.

I havn't tried other materials...
Yes you too should have fun....sorry I neglected to reply earlier..I do try to answer everyone..but I have a very demanding Squirrel to look after.

Del

Wonderful! I'm an avid traditional archer and finished my first bow recently. Then promptly snapped it. (after 2 dozen shots) It was a 70# hickory flatbow... I think 70#s is too much for hickory. Fortunately I live in an area with an abundance of Pacific Yew and have started whittling on some staves I harvested a couple of years ago. I've enjoyed your posts. Thanks!

Did you ever use or hear of using black cherry for bows? I can see the dual nature of the yew grain....one appears to be able to compress while the other can stretch......perfect for a bow no? Lots o Yew at Kew by the way.........not to suggest anything mind you.

Reason I ask is because after harvesting a few of the mature trees here a violin bowmaker came by and 'saw' what he was looking for. Apparently the grain has to have a specific spiral which starts close to the heartwood about halfway up the trunk. Not exactly easy to see and has to be 1/4 cut at the mill to be able to be seen. Out of one tree he could only get four 5' lengths that would make the bow. The other five trunks didn't make the grade.

The hardwoods here at at their most northerly limits and the grains are tightly grown.

I thought I'd mention it remembering your telling me how ones sees the bow in the wood.

I have a black locust that has to come down in the spring. It's about 32" at the base, nice and strait and healthy. Unfortunately, in the wrong location.

I've not heard of it for bow-making, but it would seem to have all the properties. Any advice?

Black locust:- just looked it up in 'TTBBvol1', it says it needs carful seasoning, don't let it dry out too quickly as it can start splitting. Suggested bow width 1 5/8 " so make a wideish flat bow, say 66"long, (not a longbow D profile). Pretty much like the bow in this blog. Apparently it has a thin layer of white sapwood...doesn't say if this is any good to leave on as the bow backing ...I'd guess not.
Try googling Black locust bow...you may find some good info.
Del

Thanks. I'm gonna do some research and try it.

It's got good outdoor properties and lasts a long time. For indoors I wouldn't advise because it produces a lot of gas.

Other than that I don't know much about it.

I had a huge locust which produced six inch spikes on its trunk. I cut it down after finding a skewered flying squirrel stuck to it....good design for supplying it's own nutrients.

I tried burning it as firewood but the damn wood nearly melted my stove.

A boxwood with a red x in the middle?

Quackling http://duckduckgo.com/Black_locust (cute, that) don't say much about the nature of the wood eg..how much it shrinks when dried, is it safe to use inside, will the grain unravel with time etc etc. Seems the only thing it's used for is outdoor furniture and decking.

Too bad it wasn't an American Chestnut. There's fences from the 18th century that are still standing made from it. Makes nice looking furniture too.

Look like dildos to me.................

hee hee

Oh, man, those spikes are brutal. There must be some poison in them, as if you get bit by one, instant infection.

It's some kind of nerve toxin. Burns for hours.

I discovered that the hard way. Also, the spikes that are on the ground don't rot for years.

Dunno about cherry...some people say most fruit woods will make a bow but I'm not so sure as I know Pear is poor under shock load.
Cherry is certainly a very attractive wood.
When in doubt make a miniature, say 18" long, it's much quicker than making a full sized bow and you'll learn a lot about the wood, and cause some amusement too.
You'll soon find out if you've been bitten by the bow making bug too.

Del

Tight grained Yew...you teaser...you are making me reall jealous now..I may just have to come over now.
You wait there, I'll just be a minute or too....
Del

Ya...no kidding. These trees take 3 to 4 times as long to grow up here as in parts south. Northern hardwoods and pines are particularily sought after for strength and tight grain. The only problem is that the soils are highly mineralized causing the log to crack if not dried correctly eg.de-barked and out of the sun.. I keep some of the best in the 'pond' for a number of years for the guys who build guitars and violins and stuff...usually spruce... but now I've got my eye on the yews in the town park (they're growing wild and nobody prunes 'em).

Saxson and/or Pope said the best Yew for bows is to be found in Humboldt/Trinity counties in Northern California. My backyard. There are some beautiful yew groves out here. Sorry, I don't mean to make you too jealous. Until I finish my yew bow I shoot 72# Tonkin cane 68" longbow. Bamboo makes for a great shooter. Thanks again for your posts.