Pipes burst when the internal pressure exceeds the ability of the material to contain that pressure.

Keep the pressure within the limits of the materials of construction to contain it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geyser

burst pressure Definition: The greatest amount of internal pressure that a container may withstand without bursting.

We really need more information...

The excess pressure is either due to.

1 Head of water in the original supply (unlikely)

2 Excess pressure from your pump, either regulate the pump output pressure or fit pipes that can withstand the higher pressure. Good idea to fit a pressure gauge so that you know what is happening.

3 Pressure generated by steam (I don't know anything about the geyser).In this case check that the geyser is working correctly and again fit a gauge and stronger pipes.

If the geyser isn't meant to generate steam...fix it quickly before there is a serious accident.

I hope this is some help.

Others may have other ideas/suggestions.

Ahah!

Move the tap that controls water flow through the heater to the upstream side of it, so that the heater is always vented via the outlet pipe. There will then be no scope for the pressure to build up within the heater.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hazop

"What could cause a Gyser to burst? Can a 1hp pressure machine burst a pipe 'pvc'?"

What kind of and where is the Gyser in question.? Swimming pool?

What is flow capacity of your 1 hp pump and output pressure? PVC pipe size? Is there a nozzle on the end of the PVC pipe?

This is a NEI, Not Enough Information. type question to provide an intelligent answer.

Request for another helpful bit of information...

Is the Gyser for aeration of the water in a pond or pool of water? Multiple jets or a single ?

thanks for your ideas/suggestions.but to buttress it well;the geyser is {water heater} it has two outlets one of cold & hot side,the cold side is connected to main supply[IN].while the hot side to serve the user[OUT].but along the way the water heater started to leak out under,the next is a serious gushing out.i have about 6-8 cases.all the contractor we call says.1,the pressure machine capacity is very high.@1hp.he us to .05hp.2,Other say.the pvc pipe is weak,3,may be the h2o heater is inferior????etc.later the pvc pipe started to leak.mean while the pressure gauge was reduced.yet the problem persisted.

DO NOT USE PLAIN PVC PIPE ON HOT WATER!

PVC can not handle heat and rapidly loses strength over 100 degrees F. CPVC is somewhat better up to 140 degree F, but copper would be better still. What temperature are you set at. Compare your water out temperature with the heater setting also.

There has been a BIG PROBLEM of communication in this thread. Never before have I heard of a hot water heater being called a geyser which usually brings to mind a column of hot water spouting up out of the earth.

Of course you are right PVC is NOT for hot water piping use but for drain, waste, and vent purpose only.

As to the pump a 1/3 to 1/2 HP unit should be sufficient for most hot water supply systems.

Ah the Joys, Trials, Tribulations of mixed cultures communications!

Old Faithfull...Yellowstone Park... isn't that hot water?

I'm assuming that's where the term comes from for water heaters... it's an old term..over here they used to get called an 'Ascot' after one of the manufacturers...

Hoover anyone?

"I'm assuming that's where the term comes from for water heaters... it's an old term..over here they used to get called an 'Ascot' after one of the manufacturers..."

I thought you called a 'water heater' a 'boiler' and that make me wonder what you call a big boiler in a steam power plant.

"Hoover anyone?" 'Vacuum cleaner? or Electrolux? or what?

Being a dumb Yankee (of Scandinavian descent!), I thought an Ascot was something an aristocrat wore around his neck!?!

Anyway, I was ready to unsubscribe this garbled post when the potential safety issue flashed in my mind and I had to throw out one more post. And now I'm still stuck in this muddled mess.

It's time for a beer! (or what passes for beer that we can buy and carry on the train that takes me home from work!)

Geyser is a typical name for such equipment in the UK, or at least when I used to live in the UK more than 28 years ago, I cannot speak for today!

It usually described a gas fired small boiler that hangs over a sink, that lights (Older ones with a pilot flame, modern ones with electric spark mechanism) itself when either hot water or a mixture of hot and cold is drawn off. It could also refer to the bigger versions, that would be installed near a bath tub as well......

I remember the name from my Grandparents house in Dover from the late 40's, they had two, one for the kitchen and one for the bathroom (in the cellar!).

If your pump is running with no flow, the water in the pump casing can heat up to boiling point and cause excess pressure with in just a few minutes. I have heard of several cases of steel pipes, cast iron pump castings, etc. blowing up from excess pressure due to lack of pressure relief or flow in the pump. Excess pressure allowed to continue to grow will eventually burst anything.

And please, what is a gyser???

Reid: You remind me that an air bladder accumulator for the water with pressure control insures that the pump only runs when the pressure control calls for it. Otherwise water is available at the set pressure at all times and the pump runs on demand. This system is used extensively on rural deep wells across the US. SS

There should actually be something that either keeps the pressure to a preset value or that turns the pump off completely.

Of course with a non return valve before the sensor, so that the pump does not keep starting and stopping, except when water is drawn off.

For those with mobile holes and caravans, you will know exactly what I mean.

Del as usual made a great answer as also did several others.

What you fail to understand is that pressure is not just a function of HP!! A small efficient pump with a 1 HP motor will take longer to get a good pressure than a bigger pump with a bigger motor, but it will get there in the end!!!

You need a pressure gauge, an over pressure relief valve and some sort of control to stop or slow down the pump when it reaches a particular pressure.....many others said basically the same!!!!

You probably need to fit one non return valve, a pressure releif valve, a flow switch, and an expansion vessel into your system depending on the type of system it is.

What is the allowed max pressure for this Geyser and the plastic piping? (the lower of the two is the one you need and then not more than 50% of that for safety)

What pressure were you using before? What pressure are you using now?

Can you describe EXACTLY (or provide CLEAR pictures) of the damage(s) please?

Do you have any water "Knocking" or "Hammer" on/in that system, if yes, this can cause instantaneous pressure changes up to 6 times the actual pressure, only a very fast measuring system will actually see it, but you can hear it.