What is the required straightness of an ice skate blade?

I don't know...
But I'd guess if it looks straight when you peer down it, that's fine. 1mm would be a huge error. The human eye is remarkably accurate and was doubtless good enough for the people who first made skates, arrows and the myriad of other devices than man has made.
Trust your senses grasshopper

Del

Great answer Ozzb. Also a great signature. I might steel it.

I heard a story over the weekend about prehistoric ice skating on the frozen lakes of northern Europe. They just used animal horns that they stood on - and they pushed themselves along with a stick, gondolier-like. So, I'm guessing that absolute straightness is not a requirement.

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18447880

Thin soles, rivets. Thick, resilient heels, screws. Simple.

Are you talking about the blade? or the blade edges?

Hi Rick

If I remember correctly my Ice Hockey blades were not straight at all. They had a slight curve to them and honing them before a match was a very caring procedure. We all had our own style so a number was never asked for. I suppose every body has a different point of pressure on ice. Can't prove my point were I am but if I would put on some boots again I would have a close look at the blade. Ky.

I love the simple and straight forward answers. Thanks to everyone who replied.

I do not do much ice skating so I cannot answer aboout the blade, but I am a roller skater and do my own plate to boot mounting. Rivets are used in the front of the sole because they are cheap. If you want a quality mounting, there are special flat head screws designed specially for this purpose which should be available at any roller or ice rink. The head of the screw sinks into the sole, and causes no discomfort. As for the heel, if a wood type screw has been used to go diectly into the heel material, this is also the cheap way. The quality way is to drill all the way through the heel and use a longer version of the special screws to secure the plate. On the plate side use a nut with a star washer to prevent the nut from comming off. After mounting I grind the end of the screw flush with the nut. Some people just clip the screw off with a pair of daigonal snips, but this leaves a sharp edge to get cut on and makes it hard to remove the nut if I want to change boots.

Great answer! Are you an ice skater? I have roller skated most of my life including dance and some other artistic forms. Having moved from California to the frozen Northeast, I find myself with the opportunity to skate on ponds on occasion. I tried sharpening some skates with a die grinder using a 1/4dia spherical mounted stone. From your information I can see that this will not be good enough. Any suggestions for a simple aparatus that a guy with a machine shop at his disposal could make? I have some ideas, but there is nothing like doing it right the first time.

Hi,yes I did a bit of ice and roller dance.Despite modern technology the best skate sharpeners are very simple.

A flat piece of gauge plate about 800 x 300 min 6mm thick mounted on a base to prevent flexing and ground flat to about .025mm. A big surface plate would be even better if you've got one. A pink or white aloxite wheel 150mm diam 10mm thick on a vertical spindle or a bench grinder suitably modified mounted rigidly on the plate back edge centrally the wheel edge being around 100 mm above the surface plate.A diamond wheel dresser mounted on a pivot to create a convex surface on the wheel of 6mm radius,but preferably adjustable.

A jig consisting of a piece of gauge plate 250 x 150 mm,an upright web of 100mm or so a horizontal flat plate 100 x 20 and a matching top plate with screws to attach.

The skate is clamped between the top plates,the screws having various positions to clear the blade pillars on different skates,so the blade is perfectly parrallel to the surface plate,and the centre of the blade exactly on the centre of the grinder wheel.Commercial machines have a sort of vertical cross slide on which the grinder spindle is mounted to facilitate centring on different thicknesses of blades.

The jig is offered to the wheel with a left right motion just to kiss the blade at left centre and right,to confirm that the wheel and blade centre are coincident.If the 'witness' marks are not right you must shim the blade to correct.Graphite powder on the surface plate will give a velvety feel to the sliding motion.

You then proceed with a left right motion along the whole length of the blade starting at the back end and lifting off just before the toe rake,taking only a few tenths off each pass until the new edge is complete,more art than science.The profile or rocker is maintained visually by following the edge where the plating stops!!The blade must not colour as it is carbon steel and any heat will ruin the hardness.The edge is hardened for about 5mm by flame and quench.

There are tables for different radii of hollow for weight and discipline,down to flat for ice hockey goalies.

I could bore for Scotland on this subject as I have made and repaired machines and tried all sorts of different radii myself but no special sharpening could make me a really good skater.

Instructors can demonstrate jumps and moves on chipped battered blades that resemble the animal bones referred to,you will know that the shore hardness choice can give you a better feel but its really down to sheer ability.When youve got the best tackle perfectly adjusted then you have no excuses and its really only your effort that

matters.

I'll take and send a photo of a sharpening machine,a pictures worth a thousand words.

Happy skating.

I must say I am quite impressed with the depth of knowledge with regard to this subject. Thanks for the input. It has been very helpful.

Rick

Go to the local rink (recommended) or sporting goods shop, spend a few dollars and get them sharpened on a purpose-built machine. You will then have a chance to get a good look at the set-up, as well as know how it feels to skate on a properly sharpened blade. If you are an occasional skater, that plus the occasional application of a (manual) skate sharpening stone may be all you need for years.

Hi Garyceng,photos of blade sharpeners as promised.

No photo of the skate holder for the red machine.

Best regrinds,Oldeng.