What is a subwooper? I know sub-woofer but this hardly works at 220V (unless is in the KW range). In the golden era of 9 KHz bandwidth on a radio with vacuum tubes, to match the speaker, tweeter and woofer (low impedance) to the vacuum tube voltage excursion, you used an well designed and built audio transformer. Eh, how simple was, then, the life...

amen. Very few gadgets actually run on AC (just some motors and heater coils that I can think of) so just about everything will contain the same sort of transformer/rectifier setup to provide DC power.

Would that be a Goldberg?

Probably not! And just as well as a 220 volt Subwoofer system would make you deaf in a very short time.

In any event, why not use an inverter? That's if permanent deafness is your aim. It shouldn't take too long to deafen you and then you could use it for a solar power system or something even slightly useful.

Is there a way to convert a 220V subwooper power to DC 12V so that I can directly install into my car power system without an inverter?

No you can't. You need an inverter of some sort since the speaker will require greater than +- 12V rails.

Buy an automotive 12v amp. Check the one that has a built-in crossover so you don't have to worry about filtering the frequencies. It's easier and cheaper.

Install a large gas powered generator on top of your car and you'll have the 220 you need or forget about it since it is not practical.

What you mean...I'm sure is! A 220 watt sub-woofer. Your existing car radio will not have enough power to drive a 220 watt speaker so you'll need an additional amplier to drive the speaker.

It seems to me that the current required to provide the same power out that is given by the 220V subwoofer and ask the same power out from 12VDC is just prohibitive.

You would need a Caterpillar bulldozer battery to power it.

When you're first starting out, you don't always have all of the info you need, to ask the question correctly.

First of all, there is only a remote possibility that your subwoofer needs 220 volts to power it. However there is one way this might come up.

For the last few years, subwoofers have been made, with a dedicated amplifier built into the enclosure. You can take the speaker leads from the back of your stereo receiver, or whatever source you have, and connect them to the "powered subwoofer." Almost every subwoofer sold in the U.S. is wired for 110/120 volts.

However, electronics manufactured for sale in Europe are set up at 220 volts. Even your everyday electric shaver is 220volts! So, it's POSSIBLE, but not LIKELY, that you actually have a 220 VOLT Subwoofer. If so, then providing power for it is not that difficult and you will get a good answer here, on this forum.

It is MORE LIKELY that you have a 220 WATT subwoofer. That would not be that hard to wire up in your car, BUT you MUST make sure that you have the correct size wire, and fuse, etc., otherwise you can burn up your wiring and start your car on fire.

So ....... try to get the exact specifications for your speaker and you'll find the member here very helpful!

Tom

It's been a few years since I've installed a car audio system, but home speakers and automotive speakers have a different impedance. One is 4 ohms, the other is 8 ohms. I think it was home systems that were 8 ohms, but I may have it backwards. At any rate, use caution as to how you are bridging and connecting if you don't want to burn out a channel.

Also, please turn the volume down in residential areas.

It is people with these extreme sound systems in their cars that make some of us wish our cars were equipped with guns or maybe sound seeking missiles so that we could trade the continual cacaphony for a single large boom. These sound systems are both annoying to others and dangerous to the owners. They are the audio equivalent of smoking.

I have to say, it is not the volume of the music I appreciate, but the clarity. My car has over 1000 Watts of capacity at my disposal, but I do not use all of this power. Even at low volume levels a subwoofer can draw a lot of power. The key is to have plenty of reserve power provide clean audio with low distortion.

I do like to listen to music in my car, but I generally only turn the system up high enough to overcome the sounds of the ¾ ton diesel truck with 6" stacks in the cab rolling around on 44" tires and a home made lift with no suspension articulation and black smoke rolling from the stacks because the driver does not understand or care that the truck is unsafe with the modifications made and polluting the air with all the over fueling and black smoke.

Now I also have a turbo diesel truck, so I am not some anti truck guy. The truck only has 500 Watts of power in the sound system. I like to hear the turbos whine when spooling up to 35PSIG boost with the propane injection while pulling my 28 foot trailer loaded up with 1000cc Long Track snowmobiles.

I am a true motor head.

Heh.... I was kind of thinking along the lines of a targeted EM pulse. If only I could figure out how to target the speaker coils without taking out my neighbors big screen.