My 89 Toyota SR5 Pickup has 125,000 miles on it and I started using Molil 1 at 85,000 miles. I only noticed a slight inrease in mileage. I still have the truck and would not hesitate to take it to California tomorrow and I live in Indiana.

BTW, I change oil every 10-15,000 miles since 1970 when I was driving 30,000 miles a year in a sales job. Had 7 vehichles that went over ioo,ooo miles with no problems and one I sold had the mileage turned back to 35,000 as reported by a potential buyer who thought it was a great looking and running station wagon.

I believe the oil change interval given by the oil companies is a money making deal not a necessary thing.

I totally disagree with that comment, sorry!

Such information as to the fact that Teflon is not allowed in aircraft engines for example, is a very strong pointer to the correct direction to take.......the testing has been done at a much higher level than ordinary cars. Plan for the worst scenario.

Engines are engines are engines.....as any Engineer knows. I scorn the use of any additives, I only use good quality synthetic oil......

GA for you as I totally agree.

If it isn't good enough for them, I don't want it either

Yes PTFE should not be used in aircraft engines for a variety of reasons centered around temps, materials and clearances/tolerances, etc.,an that PTFE vaporizes at about 350°F. Upper cylinder protection of this additive is a pipe dream though will not inhibit the engine oil from wetting the cylinder wall.

The newer engines from the retooled production lines need a 100%synthetic oil to perform properly and to benefit from the closer tolerances enabling longer service life.

As a rule I do not advise use of additives either...

Absolutely correct. PTFE (teflon) burns @ 220' F and friction will carbonize the mass against the cylinder walls and bearing assemblies.

Other additive products utilize 'mineral' slip properties. These are extracted from the oil (and grease) refining process and adding them back into ones' oil defeats the purpose. Some sales techniques will be convincing when friction is applied and measured to specific hardened steels. This works for a short period of time but it will smooth out the cylinder walls on a molecular level making it impossible for the oil to stick.

Synthetic is always good.

I have used it in around 7 cars over 20 years, never had to replace an engine or part of and some engines went over 400,000 KMs and still ran better than new....

Bricktop,

Not = chump but not as cost effective as possible. Because you don't use a most efficient filter you are wasting the potential of the pure synthetic properties.

My Dodge diesel with 310000 miles using pure synthetic + amsoil filtration, 9 qt and 15000 service interval; only change filter + add one qt.

Get a good oil filter, amsoil is about the best you'll find, change filter about every 6000-7000 miles and add amount synthetic to top off lubricant. With savings get an analysis of lubricant, you may be able to extent service intervals significantly; about 17000 -22000 miles for a complete crankcase lube replacement.

Slick fifty is great for crank shaft bearings and for gear boxes but doesn't fair well for upper cylinder protection. Suggest upgrade to product "pro tech" having the trademark "PTFE" it will provide upper cylinder protection; is in the slick fifty advanced product line.

Dude! When I was a kid, my dad was a mechanic, and he made us do all our own repairs. In addition, we did valve jobs for extra cash. So, I have seen my share of heads!!!

Anyway, I purchased a used Corvette. Under the engine hood was a big sticker from the factory, "Use Mobil 1 only!" One day, I decided to add a little Mobil 1. So I unscrewed the filler cap on the valve cover (this is a big hole). Looking down into the filler hole, I could see the top of the head. Instead of seeing brown gunk covering the top of the head, I saw perfectly, clean metal!!! As I said I've done a lot of valve jobs and have never seen any head that clean.

As far as I'm concerned, it's liquid miracle in a bottle! When I purchased my 2003 Acura 3.2 CL Type S, the first thing I did was take it to a lube shop and have them convert it over to synthetic. I won't run anything else!

My thoughts entirely. Good Post.

I guess I'll put my two cents in as well..

I bought mama this brand New Model Lincoln LS in 1999, it was a 2000 year model, right after Ford bought Jaguar I guess, (somebody correct me on the year), and we loved that Lincoln LS/Jaguar S series so much, we are still driving it.. I have always used Mobil 1 since day one, and we never use a drop, or burn a drop.. Now some dummy at the Ford place puts in regular old ford oil.. Wonder if the thing will blow..

Damn I still have the original battery in this thing...

Still in Love with the LS even though Ford quit making it

Donald

I use Mobil 1 in my Harley. The first thing I noticed was that the oil temperature stays much lower, about 10 to 20 deg C on a maximum of about 100 deg C in hot summer.

The means I measure this with is an oil dipstick equipped with digital thermometer which is not all that accurate but suffices to prove the difference.

With regards to slick50 I can only say that when I still lived in Breda, Netherlands, I used to spend a lot of time with a locally well known motorcycle racer called Jack Walvoort who also ran the local Honda main dealer motorcycle shop. He tested this stuff in his race Honda and as the engine had to come apart after each season anyway, they thought it would not be that big a deal. They were wrong, after the first race they had untold problems with erratic running and noises. They swapped engine for the rest of the season and completely dismantled the offensive object. They found a creamy white semi-sticky sludge that pulled little wires between the gears when turned around. It would not set on any of the surfaces and just mixed in with the oil making some suspension. The oil did not feel like before when rubbed between your fingers but more a gel like cream.

Needless to say that after that they never used the stuff and refused to sell it in his shop. After I saw that I am also not a great fan anymore.

Mobil 1 is ace

Slick 50 a NONO

Bricktop is not a chump.

Good Post.

I believe that this could be demonstrating the properties of Synthetic in a new way for me.

As the synthetic oil lubricates better, there is therefore less metal to metal friction, which of course generates less heat!!!

WOW!! Very interesting that the difference is so marked!!!

Yes at first I thought I was seeing spooks but it was true. Before synthetic the engine oil could reach 110 to 115 Deg C on a hot day and when coasting around in a parade or heavy city traffic. No it rarely reaches 100 Deg C. Last summer when it was rather warm around here, finally global warming shows up and proves the scientists wrong, I got 105 Deg C out of it but that made me look at it twice as I did not expect it anymore.

Very handy a thermometer on your dip stick

I agree, what did you use as a sensor (oil and temperature sensitive it cannot be!!)and how did you run the cable up it? Photos would be really great.

Slick fifty has it's place but that place is not in high temperature extremes as the product specifications warn.

I have successfully used the products for twenty years.

We tested the Pro Tech 10 in VW powered desert racers and the lead mechanic was amazed. He had just finished a new engine build, poured hot oil through the galleries. Rechecked the torque values put good oil and ran engine about 30 minutes, drop oil and check again. Then we put in the Pro 10, the idle rpm increased 700 rpm in about 20 minutes with the original mixture settings and never fell back again.

The lead mechanic wanted the product in everything after first race disassemble & check wear, then after second race, after third race he put the engine in his chase car.

Different strokes...

Bricktop NOT chump!!!

Old ENGINEer speaking.

Cheers

S.

I have a friend that gave me his old S10 pickup. It had about 180,000 on it. He had used Mobil 1 since new. The truck now has 294,000 on it. He had replaced the timing chain before I got it. It has had no other repairs to the engine yet. And the 2.8 engine is not as reliable as the 4.3 engine. I live in south Florida, and the temp is always hot. The area visible inside the valve cover at the oil fill hole is just as stated before, clean. No sludge. I have switched from 5w30 to 15w50. I buy NAPA's own brand of oil, which I believe is manufactured by Valvoline. I chink it is cheap insurance. Good choice on your part.

You wrote:-

I think it is cheap insurance.

You are SOOOO RIGHT!! Nice comment.