Look for an ice build up between the freezer and the refrig section. Had that frustration problem once.

Hot weather makes the thing overcool and do an ice blockage my most expert service person told me.

Thanks dbd.. I will check for that...

However, I already left it unplugged for 2 days and turned it on again... that should have been enough to melt any ice .... but, its still not cooling .. =/

It may be that it has lost some or all of the charge of working fluid. Depending on the make, model and age of the refrigerator the options are:

• Recharge the working fluid
• Replace the refrigerator.

It may be that the coupling between the motor and the compressor has become disconnected. Depending on the make, model and age of the refrigerator the options are:

• Reconnect the coupling
• Replace the refrigerator.

It may be that the throttling point upstream of the evaporator coil has become wide-open, instead of throttling. Depending on the make, model and age of the refrigerator the options are:

• Reconfigure the throttling point to manufacturer's standard
• Replace the refrigerator.

In any extent, it is difficult to see from here.

did it build up ice and then someone tried to defrost it the fast way by breaking the ice off from the innards of the freezing compartment? and cut into the lines and let the gas out?

Thanks for you post. The refrigerator was unused for some time so there was no Ice whatsoever anywhere in the unit.

Thanks Aurizon... No there was no Ice Buildup as the fridge was disconnected for a while

Make sure the fan is working so that air is passing over the condenser. The fan is often behind a vent in the freezer compartment.

I was thinking of this idea too. But for clarity that would be the evaporator fan you mean, I think.

Hi Gary .... I think the fan may be working. There is a low air flow coming out of both sides. Very low however...

pull it out and make sure the fan is running. if not vaccu, around the colling unit and turn the fan to see id it will run.

Had the same problem recently Called the service tech, he replaced a relay at the compressor, said it was a common problem due to dust build up. Relay cost was $60.00 Canadian. Including milage & labour you dont want to know. canuck 4

Find the thermostat and check it for continuity, AFTER UNPLUGGING POWER CORD.

Thank you very much everybody for your pointers ... I am making a list of things to check from this thread as we speak. I will take it apart tomorrow.... ....

Thanks again everyone ...

The MOST common reason for diminished/impeded reefer cooling, and easiest to fix, is blockage of air flow across the coils underneath the unit. Pop off the grill at the floor in the front. Clean off any dust that has accumulated on the grill panel. Vacuum and use coil brush to clean the tubing underneath the fridge. Reinstall the grill. Wait till next day, while cooling restabilizes, to check compartment temperature. Cleaning underneath will solve the problem in probably 90% or more cases. It would always be the first thing to check, no matter what the problem actually is.

You said it hadn't been used for a long time...

I thought when you re-started a refridgerator you had to leave it for quite a while before it starts to cool?

John.

Hi John

Thanks for the observation. Do you know how long usually takes to start cooling? I tried leaving it running for about 48 hrs but both sides were still warm.

===================

You said it hadn't been used for a long time...

I thought when you re-started a refridgerator you had to leave it for quite a while before it starts to cool?

John.

JF, in your original post you note that the freezer light turns on. Is the freezer section cooling, but not the refrigerator section? Or are both staying warm?

Most modern refrigerators have cooling coils only in the freezer section. A recirculating fan with an adjustable damper controls how much of the freezer cooling is transferred to the refrigerator section.

• If the freezer works, but not the refrigerator, the problem is a lack of transfer between the two compartments. check the recirc. fan and damper.
• If neither compartment cools, check these items:
• A bad seal on the door will cause condensation and ice buildup around the door.
• Low freon (or other working fluid) will be indicated by a hot compressor while running. The compressor should be cool to the touch in normal operation.
• Blocked condenser or evaporator coils may be evidenced by short-cycling (turning on & off every 3-5 minutes or so) of the compressor. The high pressure safety (blocked condenser) or low pressure safety (blocked evaporator), wil trip the compressor shortly after it starts. A timer will prevent immediate restart of the compressor to prevent damage.
• Check the entire external tubing circuit for kinks or crimps. The pressure drop across that kind of blockage can screw up the entire system.

If all else fails, do a google search on appliantology. My brother (maintenance manager for >1200 apartments) swears by the Samurai Appliance Repair Man at www.fixitnow.com, but there are many other appliance forums out there with troubleshooting guides and contributors who are professional service technicians for many different brands.

>>>> I am in the process of cleaning the coils as recommended above


JF, in your original post you note that the freezer light turns on. Is the freezer section cooling, but not the refrigerator section? Or are both staying warm?

>>>>>> I can feel a very low cool air flow out of the freezer section . Not enough to cool. I have set both dials ( freezer and refrigerator to Max cold)
that should allow the most cool air to be transfered from the freezer to the refrigerator area.
I can feel also an even lower cool air flow in the refrigerator section. However, both sides are warm. I guess the refrigerator produces
more heat than cool air.

I am also cleaning the coils as recommended above

Most modern refrigerators have cooling coils only in the freezer section. A recirculating fan with an adjustable damper controls how much of the freezer cooling is transferred to the refrigerator section.

* If the freezer works, but not the refrigerator, the problem is a lack of transfer between the two compartments. check the recirc. fan and damper.
>>>> (see above)

* If neither compartment cools, check these items:

o A bad seal on the door will cause condensation and ice buildup around the door.

>>>>> seal is ok. no ice buildup

o Low freon (or other working fluid) will be indicated by a hot compressor while running. The compressor should be cool to the touch in normal operation.

>>>>> This may be a problem

o Blocked condenser or evaporator coils may be evidenced by short-cycling (turning on & off every 3-5 minutes or so) of the compressor. The high pressure safety (blocked condenser) or low pressure safety (blocked evaporator), wil trip the compressor shortly after it starts. A timer will prevent immediate restart of the compressor to prevent damage.

>>>>> The compressor stays on constantly. But both sides (freezer and refrigerator) are very warm overall

o Check the entire external tubing circuit for kinks or crimps. The pressure drop across that kind of blockage can screw up the entire system.

>>>>> I am checking this as I clean...

If all else fails, do a google search on appliantology. My brother (maintenance manager for >1200 apartments) swears by the Samurai Appliance Repair Man at www.fixitnow.com, but there are many other appliance forums out there with troubleshooting guides and contributors who are professional service technicians for many different brands.

>>>>> Thanks very much for all the advise

Something occurred to me that might or might not be relevant.

You did not say:

• The age of the refrigerator?
• The condition of the food in fridge and in freezer compartment when you returned . . . cold/frozen or warm/thawed and therefore ruined?
• How long you were away on vacation?

It occurs to me that if either door (especially the freezer door) was left slightly ajar while you were away . . . then repeated, rapid cycling, or absence of de-cycling at all, would have led to a compessor failure (possible burn-out of the compartment light lamp as well . . . which would lead to suspect that compartment).

I realize this would not be much help now in terms of troubleshooting. But replacement of a failed refrigerator is often the only realistic solution . . . when it's cheaper to replace than repair. Good luck whichever . . . and please come back a post how it turns out.

1) is the compressor running or not ? If it is , open freezer door and listen to hear if the circulating fan is running , you will hear a whooshing fan sound if it is operating. Replace if no sound . 50.00 bucks.

2) If compressor is not running , remove thermostat switch and check for continuity and or short switch to start compressor . If comp. dosent start , check for burned out comp. starter solenoid. You should see if burnt or smell it to verifie. Replace if defective. 35.00 bucks.

3) Lastley , if the compressor is running all the time and all above checks are ok. you need a new fridge as a leak has occured and repairs are very expensive .

Greetings.

If you give the make of the refrigerator, the model of refrigerator, and the manufacturing number if it is an amana, then I may be able to look at the print and try to diagnose the problem. If you want help over the phone then you need to give a phone number.