Tuning a Ibanez RG320

Okay, the trouble you are having is with the Floyde Rose licensed floating vibrato system. You tune one string, then another, then the one you just tuned is out of tune again because the bridge has moved accordingly. I find that if I start by tuning the low E string all the way up to G when I have installed new strings that, by the time I have tuned all the others to pitch (from lowest to highest), the low E string will be approximately at pitch (as will the others). You'll probably have to go back through it a couple times to bring each string closer to pitch. Just remember that when you tighten one string you're loosening all the others (and vice versa). When it's in tune, tighten down that locking-nut and use the fine-tuners on the bridge for any subsequent adjustments.

I presume this is a new guitar? If so, it might need a bit of "accurizing". Slang word, I know. The first step to improve the tunability of a guitar is to inspect and correct the nut if necessary. If the string slots are not cut deeply enough the pressure to force the string to the neck can cause a slight intonation problem. This is corrected (carefully!) with nut files and a skilled finger. One should be able to depress the string as hard as possible and not cause a tonal shift. The strings also should not "buzz" against any frets when played open. That is often attributed to saddle height but the nut must be inspected first.

Next comes the neck. I presume it has the proper curvature-this is easy to test. Depress each string at fret 12 and check the clearance between the depressed spring and neck at about fret five or fret 6. There should be sufficient clearance so strings do not buzz. I usually pluck the section of the string that lies between fret 12 and the nut and listen for buzzing. A piece of folded paper also makes a good gauge to determine whether the clearance is sufficient. "Just enough" is the correct amount, and that depends greatly on the gauge of strings chosen, and on the technique of the guitarist. The neck has a truss rod that can be turned (carefully!) to change the curvature of the neck.

Finally, there is the saddle-often referred to as the bridge. The saddle pictured in an adjustable unit for string length and string height. This is set last, after the nut and neck are deemed to be correct or nearly correct. The saddle must be high enough so the strings do not "buzz" against any of the frets between the fret used and the saddle. The distance between the nut and the saddle can be adjusted as well for the purpose of correcting harmonics. This is best done with an electronic tuner that can interpret octaves - most can these days. I think you will find that any adjustment you make will affect all others, and since each compliments or compounds the other it can take a bit of time. Perhaps a visit to the local guitar shop or the local guitar hotshot is in store for you?

Finally, you have that danged "wang bar" on this guitar. The gauge of strings used will determine the number or size of springs used to balance the string tension - if this one has the option of adjustment. Essentially, lighter strings require less spring preload.

Here's a website that covers a bit of this work: http://www.guitargearheads.com/modules/news/article.php?storyid=44<br%20/>

You can no doubt find some more things out in Cyberspace. I really think if the strings are matched to the spring tension that it will be a good start. Is this your nephew's first electric guitar? If so, he may need to become accustomed to the very light string gauges and low string tension. I know that I have to train my fingers how to handle these things, Even after more than thirty (30) years with the guitar since the instrument I normally play is a classical with the broad, flat neck and high action. It has been a long time since I adjusted an electric guitar so it was as close to "perfect" as it can be. They are NEVER perfect, as the "B" string usually has a slight intonation issue regardless of how good everything else is.

Good Luck!

Ing. Robert Forbus

The information you have received in other responses and in the Rules is very helpful to setting up the guitar for maximum playability, and if you are inexperienced it is better to take it to a guitar tech - most will make these adjustments for less than $100. If you are intent on doing it yourself, you might consider purchasing a book such as The Guitar Handbook by Ralph Denyer (no affiliation or interest). HOWEVER, your question was how to tune it, and you have received some misinformation about that in these responses. In fact, the six small knurled thumbscrews (micro-tuners) at the very bottom of the floating tremelo and bridge system ARE used to fine tune the individual strings to correct pitch. This is done after rough-tuning with the tuning pegs in the headstock, but one cannot adjust the rough tuning with the tuning pegs in the headstock until one has released the strings from the string lock, which has three allen screws which must be loosened to release the strings. This string lock serves as the nut, and is located just above the first fret, as shown in the photo below.

So, first adjust each of the micro-adjusters (six small knurled thumbscrews at the very bottom of the floating tremelo system) to the middle of their adjustment range to establish a starting point for later adjustment. Second, loosen the three allen screws in the string locks above the zero fret just enough to allow the strings to slip when the tuning pegs in the headstock are turned. Third, rough tune using an electronic tuner, but tune the strings very slightly flat, because tightening the allen screws to lock the strings will raise the pitch slightly. You may find it helpful to tighten them slightly and readjust to correct pitch using the electronic tuner again before fully tightening the allen screws. Fourth, make the fine adjustments of each string to pitch using them icro-adjusters. Once this process is completed, you should only need to tune for each playing session using the micro-tuners. Should a string stretch or slip after playing, such that the required adjustment to pitch is beyond the range of the microadjusters, then you will have to repeat the whole process.

Hope this helps!