Did it overheat and stop running? Did it run out of fuel and stop? Or did it just "cut-off" going down the road? Are the fuel injections putting out fuel while off the engine? Is the "check engine" light on? Is water coming out the tail pipe? Give me some more information and I will try to help.

I also would like to help, but do not understand the car running with the injectors, or fuel rail out.

its not completely out just being held away and letting the fuel spray. The car actually is now turning over but it wont idle properly. My dad said its not getting fuel when he pushes the gas down . The fuel pump is still running strong though from what we can tell. So we are stumped.

Most people do not understand that the "gas pedal" does not control the rate that gasoline goes into the engine on fuel injected vehicles. It controls the amount of air. The ECM (engine control module or "computer") controls the amount of gas to match the amount of air. If your car runs with the injections pulled partly out, it is because it is not getting enough air through the throttle body. Check the TPS (throttle postion sensor) and the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor. It would help to know if the check engine light was on also.

the check engine light isnt on. How would i go about knowing if those sensors are bad ? just replacing them ?But i really do appreciate the help. Ill get back to you on the sensors

You can go to the library and get a book that lists tests for each sensor which can be done with a multimeter. Or go to an Autozone store and have them read the sensors operation. I forgot to mention the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, which also could be the problem. Don't just start replacing sensors. The TPS and MAP are usually reasonably priced, but the MAF is the most expensive sensor on most engines.

Gunny W is correct on the sensors. There are way too many sensors to just keep putting parts in cars today. There are OBD readers available for under $70. These readers will just plug into the diagnostic port under the dash on almost any car sold in the US after 1996. It will give you a list of trouble codes that your computer has seen. A trouble code will set for any sensor that does not have the correct resistance across it. It will also set a code if the sensor gets a reading that is not within the range that it is supposed to get. Why don't you buy a reader, and find out what your computer has been seeing. From those trouble codes we will be better able to help you.

So i got a reader and to my surprise there is 8 codes that popped up . 2 of the codes appeared twice. The codes are as follows P0107, P0108, P0113, PO122, PO335, PO405, AND P0107, p0113 at the end. Ive read a few diagnostic sites about the codes but cant make a great deal of sense other than there is something wrong with the map sensor. You guys have any other thoughts. I'm by far not a professional and once again really appreciate all the help I'm getting from here.

ok i was mistaken the second instance of p0108 and p0113 are followed by a pd. hope that helps

I'm sorry I was away all weekend. I will dig out the code book tonight and get back to you.

GA Gunny.

If a sensor gives both a high and low input reading after you have cleared the codes, it is a good bet that the sensor itself is bad.

A sensor that says it has a high input voltage can be a bad ground circuit problem.

The map sensors on GMs are fairly standard. If he can borrow one out of a friends car, clear the codes and give it a try, he may be done with his problems.

WEll guys once again thanks for the help. We will see about getting a map to put in and try it. What are those automotive places return policies on electronic equipment ?I will write back and let u know as soon as we try that out. Im going to try the map first. Then if that doesnt do it . I will go to the tps correct ? ...... Once again thanks so much for the help.

Hi everybody....I'm not sure if this is the right way to ask but i'm having the same problem with the same car so i thought i'd give it a try. My wife's 98 cav (2.2) is doing the same thing....if i let it sit for a while it will run perfectly for about 15 seconds. after that it will turn over but not start. The check engine light is not on. a friend has one of those OBD computer thingys(snapon, off of the tool truck big $$$) and it shows no codes. I have changed the fuelpump, crank sensor, cam sensor, throttle position and coil packs/ignition module. the timing chain and gears were replaced but that's because my father-in-law is an idiot.

I am not a mechanic but i know how to turn a wrench in the back yard if you know what i mean. my friend has been a mechanic for 20years and fixes EVERYTHING that i can't figure out but he's scratching his head with this one. He told me to change the ECM, which i'm doing today but i think i'd like a few other opinions.... ANY help you guys could give me would be appreciated.............

Kashjeff

Just like all gasoline engines, yours needs; fuel, compression, and spark at the correct time. The easiest thing to test is Ignition spark. Pull a spark plug and check for spark at a time when it will not run.

If you find a bright bluish spark, check for fuel pressure. If pressure matches specifications, check the injector for power with a noid light.

If the ignition timing was not correct, it would never run.

If the engine did not have compression, it would never run.

I have earned a living repairing vehicles from before the first automotive computers. I have not had three bad computers. And one of them was bad because I made a connection to the wrong wire and burned it. Do not buy an ecm, until it is proved defective.

Test and post results. This forum will help you.

If you insist on guessing what parts to replace, please buy them from me. I have lots of parts that I will likely never be able to sell.

I know it has fuel...cause i changed the fuel pump, I hear it kicking on and I've also had the injectors out and seen them spray. I can't find the little valve to put a pressure gauge on but I'm sure that's not the problem.(what are the chances of having two weak fuel pumps?). I know it has spark because I checked and both coils are sparking blue...I don't have any reason to suspect a problem with compression. The motor will start and run but only for about 15 seconds or so and only after sitting awhile(hours and days) after that it will turn over and not start. Also if i cycle the key 10 to 15 times it will do the same thing. I started replacing parts that commonly cause problems(crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel pump) I changed the ECM because of a reply from gunnyW in this forum.......

"Most people do not understand that the "gas pedal" does not control the rate that gasoline goes into the engine on fuel injected vehicles. It controls the amount of air. The ECM (engine control module or "computer") controls the amount of gas to match the amount of air."

I did not know that but it sounded reasonable so i thought i'd give it a try, as you might have guessed, it didn't work...now i am fresh out of ideas. "GunnyW also mentioned throttle position and map sensors but i think either of these would make the car run poorly rather than keep it from starting(please correct me if you know different as i am not against learning something new) Buying parts to try has not been a problem because the people at the local junkyard here are pretty understanding and open to returns. I'm convinced that the problem is electrical but i've run out of directions.

Please post ANY ideas that you have as i'm open and greatful for any suggestions.

Kashjeff

I am going to try to diagnose this from long distance, so please be patient.

Find the oxygen sensor, remove it, and try starting the engine. If the exhaust has clogged, the engine will stack compressed exhaust gas in the exhaust pipe until there is no oxygen content in the cylinder. At that point the engine will stall out. The engine would have continued to supply fuel while this happened. The spark plugs would become wet with fuel. Given enough time off, and the wet plugs would dry on their own, and the exhaust back pressure would have escaped. Allowing the engine to restart.

If pulling the oxygen sensor is out of the question, you can remove the EGR valve if that is easier. BUT you will need to plug the vacuum port with balled up aluminum foil for that version of the test.

One last version of this test is to loosen the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. It only needs to move away from the head by 1/8" to create the exhaust leak.

Any of these tests should cure a plugged exhaust.

Have you pulled the spark plugs? Do they look black and sooty? It can be an over rich condition from the lack of oxygen.

Try this, and let me know. Good luck.

So i took ur advice and erased the codes and tried it again and we are only getting one error now the p0335 which is for a crankshaft sesnor. But it will still crank and try to start but not fully start. ? Any suggestions now ?

This is a tough one. If the crank sensor was not working, you would not get a fuel injection pulse or spark or RPM indication on the scanner. Since you have gotten several different codes for different sensors, it could be a problem with the 5 volt reference that goes to many of the sensors. I still think that trying a MAP sensor would be the best place to start.

Napa offers both a cam and crank sensor.

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It would be possible for the engine to see a fuel timing signal, but not a ignition signal. The bad news is the crank sensor is much more expensive than the cam sensor.

The crank sensor is not required for the engine to "crank over" the starter motor cranks the engine over.

Have you checked for ignition spark? Have you checked for fuel injectors getting a signal?

If you get a junk yard crank sensor, and connect it to your wiring harness, then pass a screwdriver back and forth fast across it, the ignition coil should fire the spark plugs. Not in any fashion that would allow the engine to run, but enough to see the ignition system work. Good luck.

i have a 97 cavalier. The battery light came on in my car. When I turned it off, it will not start now. I found that my alternator was dead and changed it. I took the battery out and charged it. Now the car still wont start. I was wondering if there is a code i need to put in because off the gm theft device because i took the batter y out?

Test the purple wire on the starter motor. If it is live when the key is turned to start, the starter, or starter wiring is defective. If it does not get hot, it could be the ignition switch, neutral safety switch (or clutch starter switch), or the ignition theft device if present. Does your car have a "chip" in the key?