It would help us armchair mechanics a little if you could identify the motor for us as there are a couple of different motors installed in these cars. Each with their own peccadilloes.

The short answer regards the lifters is yes they are the same, cam followers however should not be mixed up as they are "bedded" to the cam lobe that operates them. The way around that is to finely "polish" the face of the cam follower and then re-bed the cam using the procedure in the workshop manual.

Note: you must lube the cam follower faces and cam lobes with moly grease during assembly so as they don't run "dry" during the initial start up. Usually you would run the engine at between 1500 to 2200 rpm for a period of 15 minutes to "break in" the cams. This procedure does vary between motors and cam profiles.

I would suggest to you that you should do an oil change with a new filter afterwards.

Before you bolt the head back on, check the cylinder walls for damage, I presume the tops of the pistons have hammer marks on them. You have to be scrupulous in ensuring that there is no leftover schrapnel left in the cylinders as this will provoke further engine failure.

Don't be tempted to "bodge" it, it will cost you a lot more in the long run.

Hello

Many thanks for such a fast response. The engine is 6 cylinder in line with 24 valves. It is made of aluminium.

Prior to the engine failure it was running very smooth and fairly powerful. My only complaint was the fuel consumption was about 30% higher than expected.

The 30% loss of fuel economy can be attributed to a retarded camshaft.If the timing belt was bad enough to brake, how much slack was there in the belt? Read my reply in your other post. Good luck.

RE: "The short answer regards the lifters is yes they are the same, cam followers however should not be mixed up as they are "bedded" to the cam lobe that operates them."

Generally I think you will find that the Hydraulic Lifters are the Cam Followers.

Mostly Hydraulic Lifters are used in a pushrod engine. The lifter in fact rides on the cam lobe & opens the valve, via pushrod & rocker.

Cam Followers is generally the term used in an overhead cam engine. It is also the part that rides on the cam lobe, & operates the valve, usually through some type of rocker equivalent but does not involve a pushrod.

So I would agree with your advice re bedding in lifters or cam followers.

Tony

In the Volvo the lifter sits under the cam follower "bucket". In the B230 motor there are replaceable shims to set the valve lash (clearence) however in the B234 twin cam and in this B6304 motor they use hydraulic lifters underneath the buckets. These are directly acted upon by the cam. Think Flat head Ford V8 only round the other way.

Its a little different to the 2.0 OHC Pinto motor where there are cross over rocker arms or the old 1.6 Kent with push rods and solid lifters.

Hi Franksgarage,

I think many of us have had to deal with "timing belt" failures, and I have had my share.

I had a belt failure on a 85' Audi 4 cylinder, and there was no valve train damage, which surprised me.

Then I had a "belt slippage" when the loosened cam bolts allowed oil to leak on the botton sprocket. Fortunately it occured at "idle-speed", and the weak spot was in a lifter on No. 4 cylinder (Isuzu 4 cyl diesel) caused the lifter to break. I had just rebuilt the bottom end and spent many bucks lapping the valves during the overhaul, and the valves did not appear to be damaged (I still had good compression).

The slippage occured again and had to relace the No. 4 lifter (from an oil pan access inspection plate and a partial removal of the cam shaft). The same lifter failed twice.

I wonder what other damage ensued by this "one-lifter" damage. (I will try the replacement again, and use "lock-tite" on the five cam shaft bolts). I put around $1000 in this overhaul, and the Trooper (85 model) looks like new (garaged), so I am not going to give up yet. (One of the cam bolts entered the oil channel).

Yes, and we are considering replacing all 8 lifters (cheap insurance at $15 per lifter). Any of you who recall the 49'-52' Chevy 216 CI six-cylinder engine had timing gear failures (like big time) because of a fabric timing gear, I was in HS and lived 25 miles from town on the Deming Highway. The diagnosis was easy, just remove the distributer cap and turn over the engine (the distributer shaft would not turn).

DRS

All the advice you have been given is sound. Hydraulic liftes are not adjustable, so don't go looking for an adjustment. Anything less than replacing the cam, lifters, valve guides, and valves, invloves some risk. The amount of risk depends on the condition of the wear-in surfaces and damage to the valve guides. These are measurements that most people are not equipped to make. So, there is a slim chance that you could replace nothing except the valves and have the engine run properly. The chances of a satisfactory repair increase as you replace valve train components. I was once asked to make a recommendation on an engine in a twin engine plane. A mechanic had discovered that a camshft lobe was discolored. The engine had about 1000 hours left before a mandatory teartown. My advice was to get the 1000 hours out of it and replace any worn items at that time. The owner decided to replace both engines with new (not re-built) engines. It cost him $300,000, but minimized his risk.

Replace the tappets with new.

Hydraulic tappets are not adjustable, the oil pressure keeps the slack out of the system.

Thank You gentlemen for your good advice and support. I removed the head, and had to replace all 12 exaust valves and 3 inlet valves. Got it built back up with the timing set to the marks, and it runs very rough and only on 3 cylinders 1, 2, and 5. All the coils are sparking. Have you any suggestions. Could it be the timing? Any comments will be much appreciated

My first guess is that you have some valves too tight. A compression test will confirm this. Is there adjustment on the valve train?

Doesn't clearance self-adjust with hydraulic lifters?

iHi Moon161,

Wow. You are just about fixed. We are all somewhat ametuers, and have experienced your situation.

If a compressuin test passes the acceptable pressure, and the timing is IK, then the problem is electrical. Are the spark wires correctly connected and are the spark plugs OK?

When I was in grade school, my Dad had a one cylinder power yard scooter car.........with a foot petal starter........amd it would not start. Well, this kind man came along and gave me my first mechanic lesson. Of Course, I listened carefully.....you must have three things to make an engine work.....spark, compression and fuel.

Simething similar happened when we adjusted the spark timing on a BSA 600 motorcycle.......our adviser siad, "set the spark at 5/8" BRDC", and he was not kidding.

So, we learn as we desire to learn.

DRS