If you haven't moved anything, yes.

Have to go.

I have never done one of these without taking the valve cover off. On the opposite end of the cams from the sprockets, there is a flat machined into each cam so you can hold them . I use a piece of steel plate which holds them both in phase. Without this step it is very difficult to even get them to hold still so the belt will go on in the right place. It's not worth the 45 extra minutes you save if something goes wrong.

I'll have to defer to Franksgarag.

Sounds like he knows his stuff.

LL

Hello,

The whole point here is to achieve alignment of the camshafts and the crankshaft AND the distributor to achieve proper timing of the (2.0 L) firing sequence. The first step is determine TDC (Top Dead Center). If you do not have a series of depth micrometers and extending arms, a pencil will do when dropped down the spark plug hole of cyl. 1. When Cylinder No. 1 is at TD on the firing cycle, the distributor rotor arm will point at the No. 1 cable postion on the distributor cap. With this known as a "rough in", the camshafts and the crankshaft should each have a 'dimple' that are opposite each other when viewed through the centerlines of each shaft. Most important is to adjust the position of the crankshaft so that the pencil is maximally extended. Step 2, then becomes to install the timing belt to assure alignment of the all dimples (with a give/take) through a centerline position (imaginary, NOT ALL POINTING AT THE DIMPLE ON THE CRANKSHAFT).

This information is available in almost any Haynes or FORD Factory manual. Even in our small community there is a Public Library that keeps a stock of such manuals. Have you tried there?

If you do not have such access, reply back with the VIN no. from the left window side, and we can send the appropriate manual section.

GLB/CE

Be bald:

1.-Align the camshafts and crankshaft with their marks (according to Haynes pics.), 2.-Cover the new belt with lard, vaseline, heavy oil or wahtever lubricant that you can wash off afterwards.

3.-Slip the new belt between the cover and the block, thread it around the sprockets and release the belt tensioner.

4.-Thoroughly wash off all residue of lubricant with suitable detergent.

I've done it myself and had no problems.

Yahlasit

May be off topic, but I'm curious as I too have a 99 Contour with 184,000 miles on it and am considering undertaking this job. Are there any "special" tools required to perform this job. I have the Haynes, Clymers and the factory service manuals, but have yet to go digging through them. Just looking for an easy answer on this one. Thanks.

No, but the flat piece of steel that fits in the back side of the cams locking them together is super helpful.

Looks like I got it using the marks on the camshaft. I had to readjust four times but I got it. Found the simplest solution: a mechanic.

He came over and helped me out. I really appreciate the advice you all gave. By the way, the Haynes manual DOES NOT show the marks I mentioned, because as I previously stated the marks were put on by somebody who had owned the car prior to myself.

Still have some loping in the idle and I intend to change the fuel filter. If that still doesn't fix the problem, I'm looking at a fuel pump, fuel sensor, or having to take off the valve cover after all. (all suggested by said mechanic and Haynes manual)

Anyways, if anyone has any ideas(or objections), I will be checking back. Thanks again.

Ok, changed the fuel filter, and it's still not idling correctly. I really can't afford to put more money into this car and if the timing is wrong, I don't want to take it for a drive and bend a valve. Someone suggested using a "timing light" to check my timing. Any ideas?