This sort of thing can be notoriously difficult to track down. I would try to expose as much of the plumbing as possible, dry everything off as well as you can, and watch to see where any water is coming from. But I suppose you are already doing that. Also make sure that the system is really draining, and not backing up from some downstream blockage. E.g., Roto-Rooter the drain line?

I had a similar problem. I didn't get very far taking things apart - loosened the drain connection to the pan and filled it with mastic and re-tightened - problem solved.

But given how far your problem has gone (fungus, etc), you may wish to remove any softened wood, drill holes to improve drying/subsequent penetration, put a fan to the area for a week or three to help dry things out and then treat with copious amounts of fungicide before replacing the missing wood.

but perhaps silicone is better and easier than old-fashioned mastic

The drain are is normally the problem, if you feel very much flex in it this indicates a soft spot.The sign of mold tell us it has been leaking awhile. We also have system just designed for your needs.

If it was 2004 it could even be a nail hit one of the lines and it has been seeping for years being absorbed by the wood and drywall until it reached it saturation point and found its way outside.

We have seen this and more over the years.

Stop by my website or send me an email and and see if we can help you.

www.indianafloorsllc.com

I am the owner.

I don't know how to remove a shower stall

Here's some good tips for removing a bath tub:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/13355#comment479954

this looks like a typical 'scarce glue' problem.

when platic pipes like this are bonded they need to be properly deburred an when the glue is applied they coat in such a way that there is a little left inside and a little on the outside, with the external wiped clean and not moved at all after being cut to fit and then glued in a drain to down-drain process. I have seen a lot of failures like this and when they are pulled apart there are large unwetted internal gaps that never saw glue.

Being a chem engineer, all you do is piping as a student and early grad.

The same thing happens with copper pipe, where we once specified that copper pipe and fixtures had to be first deburred and cleaned, then fluxed, then tinned and hot wiped so they would cold fit, followed by a fitting and soldering. If you do this you can make 1000 joints with no leaks, but it takes care. We explained this to the contractors, and they explained it to the workers, who then ignored the instructions = leaks and flux contamination. This led to us refusing to pay for the job until it had been fixed and this led to the contractor being unable to pay his workers who admittedly screwed up, but non-the-less, wanted full union rates to fix what they made bad in the first place. Eventually giving them a detailed show and tell about joints and contamination, opening up their bad joints and showing how they had never been wetted fully. We caught it about 35% done and we had all those joints redone because even the ones that did not leak had channels full of flux etc

Hello Don in LA,

Am I correct to assume from your posting that the entire house is built on a slab-on-grade? Here again is another reason house builders should be prevented from building a house on a slab, because there is no easy access to fix plumbing leaks and electrical problems. I am a firm believer in building houses with fully accessible basements or at least fully accessible crawl-spaces just so future repairs can be done without great expense! I don't care where you live in the USA, this form of building practice should be outlawed. Maybe it's high time to institute a National Building Code rather than leave up to the individual states to figure out things.

Don, what can I say here to ease your pain? It's going to be an expensive repair if the drain pipe are indeed leaking because you're going to have to jackhammer your floor slab to gain access to the drain piping system. Best way to test the drain system may be a simple air pressure test over a 2 hour period IF you can somehow isolate that individual drain line from the remaining drain pipe system under your house. You may have to hire a specialized plumbing contractor to do this sort of testing using inflatable air bags, much like those used to air pressure test sanitary sewer lines.

If it were my house I'd first check the rubber grommet gasket where the bottom of the slower stall drain meets with the plastic pipe riser. To me that would the most likely place for a leak to develop. Problem again is that most shower stalls manufactured today or in the past 10 years or so are one piece units. so, it looks like you'll need to carefully (if possible) remove all the fasteners that were used to secure the stall to the walls and floor substrate. If you find that the grommet is bad then you have lucked out BIG TIME. If not, hold onto your wallet for dear life becasue to remeady the situation will be very costly.

The other option left you and probably the simpliest (and cheapest) is to abandon the shower stall and securely cap the drain line, then remove and replace rotted-out wood flooring. I cannot stress the importance of tightly capping the end of an abandoned drain line...you need to prevent methane gases and other sewer gaees from builing up inside of your house...it's a very real LIFE SAFETY ISSUE.

Good luck, and have a great sunny day!

I agree that houses that are slab built suck

Have a look: http://www.pdf-search-engine.com/2006-international-building-code-pdf.html

The states all follow the international code...

You might want to call your insurance company before you start tearing out stuff, and see what they say, it might be a bit more than you expect.

Good luck!

I agree these types of leaks are hard to fix.

I'm amazed no one has come up with a product for no pressure like these drains, to seal a leak, Like the stuff for your car like radiator leak sealer etc. this would be a perfect place for such a product!

Thanks to everyone for your replies. Sorry I didn't reply sooner but I'm just recovering from a really nasty sinus infection (mold from the water leak?). I did open the wall and expose the wet wood. I used my shop vac to get the water out of the recessed area under the stall and I had a fan blowing in the area for 3 days. I sprayed the entire area with a 4-1 bleach solution, let it air dry and turned the fan back on. After Thanksgiving I'll check the drain connection. I agree about the easier maintained crawl space homes, which we do have some of in south Louisiana. But, due to the high water table we have very few homes with basements.

Thanks,

Don

Update on the leak: I tore out Sheetrock on either side of the shower. One wall is shared with a closet, the other with the master BR. I was able to rig a fitting on my shop vac and get most of the water out of the recess under the shower drain. I sprayed the heck out of everything I could see, and a lot of hidden area that I can't see. I used bleach, 3 times and vinegar once. I let the bleach air dry then sprayed with the vinegar and let that air dry, then ran a fan on the opening for 3 days. The shower area is well ventilated. It is not as bad but I can still smell mold. It looks like I'm going to have to take the entire shower out so I can physically remove the mold. I've done research, including EPA, and I've found out that even if the mold is killed by spraying with disinfectant, the dead mold spores still pose a hazard. The mold has to be physically removed by scraping, brushing, etc. or by replacing the molded materials. I haven't run water in the shower for 2 weeks.

Any further info will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Don

There is a fungicidal varnish that can be sprayed in the area that spores cannot grow through. You would have to source it, or add a fungicide to an extant varnish.

this search might have some reference you can use.

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=hp&q=%22fungicidal+varnish%22&btnG=Google+Search&meta=&aq=f&oq=%22fungicidal+varnish%22&fp=fdb7627fc4f0229c

Thanks for the update! Did you ever figure out exactly where the water was comming from?

Drew

Drew,

I'm pretty sure that it is the connection directly beneath the shower floor. I haven't removed anything but I think it is not the water supply since I haven't had any evidence of water leakage since I quit using the shower. Again, the mold odor is still there. I think I will just remove, and destroy, the fiberglass shower stall. I will probably transition the current shower stall into a linen closet, take out the large tub (not connected), which we never use, and install a roomy shower stall, probably lined with man-made marble. I'm just not sure about how to build the new shower floor/drain. Even though I'm not a professional plumber, I like doing stuff myself when I can. I've had too many shoddy jobs done by "professionals".

Thanks,

Don

This is how you would prepare for a tile shower.

And This is what a quick search found for your new one. I am certain you can find better with pictures.

The only problem you may find is how to attach the drain. Worst case is you have to jackhammer down enough to get a good piece of pipe to attach to. I would call a local plumber in to do an estimate and pick his brain about what you can expect. Read up so you can ask informed questions and try not to let him know you will be doing this on your own.

Basically all you have to do is attach the drain fittings between your existing plumbing and the bottom of the new unit. The drain fitting is made of a section of pipe (at the correct height)threaded on the inside that you set the shower unit on then thread on the polished top section using a little plumbers putty.

Drew

Thanks. We are on the same page.

Don

Post some pictures when you get the old unit out and I will say what I can. I won't be on as much over the holiday's but will do what I can.

Drew