I recently helped my daughter with a science project and used ordinary Gorilla glue to attach some aluminum pieces I'd made together. It was quite a strong bond. I believe they also make a two part epoxy.

I need a bond that will not fail under much use; more than a science project would ever see. There are a lot of 2-part epoxies available, but I don't know which would be best. Thanks for the reply.

Look into industrial double sided tape. I was told by someone in the industry that they even use it to fasten fenders on some fire trucks.

Hi again Rosento,

I just sent a message explaining epoxy glue making. All samples are free of charge and you will receive them by currier. Contact companies and they will be happy to supply what you need. Don't explain nothing to them, just ask for free samples with technical data and MSDS.

Before you apply any glue, all surfaces must be cleaned with any alcohol (Isopropyl is the best, not toxic and every houses have rubbing alcohol. Again, never drink during glueing operation! and can or must be flattened by sanding with fine (200 grit or finer) sandpaper or grinded. When evrything is clean and dry, apply the epoxy mix described in the previous message. All the best, Gil.

Let's talk about surface prep first. It is critical to adhesive bonding. Always remove the anodizing prior to bonding, with 120 grit paper. Rough surface is good. More contact area the better. Clean with methyl ethyl ketone followed by isopropyl alcohol. Bond as soon as practical after cleaning as oxides form quickly and degrade the bond strength. We qualified all our adhesives using 6061 lap shear test specimens, when I was working in aerospace industry.

Most adhesive manufacturers should list bond strengths to Al and I'd shoot for 2,500 PSI shear strength or more. Shore D hardness of around 60-70. Nothing too brittle.

I'd go with a two part epoxy that is slow curing or even requires heat to cure. I'm no longer competent to recommend specific adhesives because I've been away from the industry for too long. But, I've read some really over the top recommendations by some "experts" on this forum regarding bonding, so be sure of your source prior to following their recommendations.

Have fun.

GA from me for a really great answer, especially with regard to cleaning of the parts prior to gluing. The OP should be warned not touch the cleaned areas with his fingers after cleaning though!

Though I do feel that any of the modern 2 part Epoxy glues will be more than "man enough" for such a job, even the 5 or 20 minute "Quick" versions, which I use for fairly strenuous jobs on my CNC machine, with no breakages up to now....modern adhesives are truly fantastic....

By the way, Epoxy when still wet can be cleaned off with Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol). Read/observe usual safety precautions for both the alcohol and the glue before starting, no naked lights, grinders or burners of heating systems.........

I buy the small packets with either 2 tubes or 1 tube and a supply of white powder to mix together....no need for vast quantities. Do not let one component come in contact with the other when the tubes are open, even small amounts can cause a tube(s) to "go off" over a period of a few days....

Do a couple of small test jobs before the real job......

By the way, even the 5 minute versions usually only achieve full strength in a warm room after 24 hours or so. Cold rooms/working conditions (under 45°F) makes the hardening process take much longer. For the 24 hour versions, it may not harden at all......

GE Plastics, if they still exist, used to sell a two-part epoxy for Lexan (about $50 for two pints, I think) that would glue aluminum better than welding. We found out by accident when I laid the popsickle stick (You may use cheap mixing tools, but I go first-class!) on a piece of auluminum I had been tapping and then knocked another piece on top.

This isn't an adhesive but you may want to look into using aluminum alloy rods and a blow torch.

I bought some of the rods in home depot and as long as you clean the joint and heat it up enough, they work quite well.

It will give you a much stronger and longer lasting bond than any adhesive.

Try Naval adhesives.

When I was at the shipyard we bonded Aluminum to Steel. We did a test because we were replacing a pilot house that was steel with one made from aluminum to balance out the ship to reduce weght with the other upgrades, I don't believe you'll find it at McMaster. Its advanced even now because of the insulating value it also had to avoid the galvanic reactions. This was 18 years ago.

I held a sample piece of it, with it unbalanced, it was like holding a spinning gyro. I wish I would have brought a drop home.

p911

Seems to me that Loctite 3050 will suit your needs.

Loctite document says it is a "Structural Adhesive Paint Process Compatible. A weld-through capable, high temperature, acid resistant, two-component acrylic adhesive designed for weld/rivet reduction. Cures rapidly to form tough, durable bonds. Exhibits high resistance to phosphate and autophoretic metal pretreatment processes"

http://www.gluemytruck.com/HENKELstructuralbonding.pdf refers.

Of course I fully endorse Lynlynch #4 emphasizing the importance of proper pre cleaning. Even a seemingly minor negligence in pre cleaning can result in joint failure. For example failure to use DM water can degrade joint strength by more than 40%

We manufacture assemblies that are in part, bonded aluminium. The adhesive we use is Loctite 330 which is a 2 part toughened acrylic consisting of a tube of adhesive & an aerosol activator. This gives a thin joint which cures typically in 3 minutes, giving full strength in 24 hours. Our experience is that this bonding is tough & reliable, on 1-2mm thick parts you will destroy the aluminium before you break the joint. It is available in 50ml tubes with 40ml activator, we pay about £13 a time for this.

The previous comments regarding cleaning surfaces are most important, we would lightly abrade the surfaces using fine Scotchbrite, then clean with isopropyl alcohol.

The alcohol also removes uncured adhesive.

There are many structural adhesives that will do a fine job. Each person has his/her favorite. I suggest that instead of drilling and pinning, you consider using pop-rivets to hold parts in allignment while the adhesive cures. They are fast, inexpensive, and will add to the structural integrity of the finished product.

For your purpose nothing is cheaper or more effective than JB weld. I have built custom electronics frames using this stuff and it has never let me down. In your design allow overlapping of materials for the glue I have also joinned straight piesces by gluing plates to both sides to keep the straight member staight and not offset.

Since you are in England give your requirements to Johnson Matthey (British company) or Ablestik (German and better one with office in London) and get a recommendation based on what your actual needs are and they will suggest you.

I know AbleStik 560 works very good but they may have cheaper one also

Hello Ronseto,

Ask four one pound samples. One from Dow Chemicals or its distributor (DER 331 liquid epoxy resin), one from Arizona Chemicals or its distributor (Uni-Rez 2142 liquid polyamide), one from BASF or its distributor (Attagel 50 powder as thickener), and one from Bayer or its distributor (Benzyl Alcohol, please don't drink it!). Mix to homogeneous 10 grams of DER 331 with 1.2 grams Benzyl Alcohol for at least three (3) minutes. When you are ready to apply the adhesive, and only that time, mix the previous bled with 5.3 grams of Uni-Rez 2142 polyamid and mix for three (3) minutes. Immediately add to this homogeneous three liquids blend 1.0 gram of powder Attagel 50 to obtain a slowly flowing heavy fluid for only horizontal use or 3.0 grams to create a thixotropic paste for vertical and horizontal application, and mix them for at least three (3) minutes to make ready for application. Apply enough to get perfect contact between two pieces and hold them for at least overnight. Check manufacturers and distributors in your country, ans ask equivalent products. This adhesive formula is basic but works well any many cases and I am sure, it will work well for you too. Ask for another samples if you need more but one pound epoxy resin can glue together lots of things. For mixing use a spatula and be sure everything is well mixed! This adhesive is good for one to onbe and half hour to apply. After that period, the blend will start to heat and become hard. To clean everything including your fingers and the spatula, use Palmolive liquid detergent and warm water. Good glueing process make good unions! Don't miss around, Gil.

Thank you Gil for the information. I have hesitated from asking for samples as I am not a business and want to find the best product for hobby purposes only. Besides I don't want to waste any salesmen's time.

Hi Ronsento,

You don't need to be in business. Through e-mail you ask all samples for trial and you get everything within two weeks. No one salesperson will refuse to help people who ask for samples. This is the starting point of your and his business operation. I am not telling that you have to open a shop and produce the adhesive but who knows what can happen. Years ago, I made one litre anti-corrosive primer sample for a friend who knew someone else, and two years later I get over $10,000 for the formula. Life is full of opportunities and we have to grab them when they appear. Good change to glue, Gil.

3M "VHB" tape is amazingly strong, but it's not cheap. About $40 a roll, as I remember it. I used it for some stainless steel light-diffuser frames. 

Good morning Pantaz,

We have a question about an adhesive bonding aluminum. Forget stainless steel or wait for the question about it. Have a nice weekend, Gil.

Okay... Why the attitude? The 3M VHB tape I recommended is highly suitable for the bonding of aluminum. You don't have to take my word on that, 3M's website has plenty of information.

I recounted my particular experience with the product simply to let you know that I have actually used the product. It so happens that my usage involved SS.   

Hi,

Irrespective whether the recommendation of 3M VHB tape is productive or not for the intended application, I found the information you have provided is very useful with fascinating possibilities.

I believe these are the kind of technical guidance which make CR4 forum worthwhile.

Thanks

Hello Pantaz,

Sorry for my focus about the title of the conversation: "Adhesive for Bonding Aluminum" and it will be used as a hobby. So, I thought that the person don't need to give away money but can get the best adhesive to use for free. Try to make the suggested formula as an adhesive for Al, and you can try for stainless steel (SS) too. The results will be yours and give you answers to the subject for gluing Al, Fe, and SS. I like 3M company's products but sometimes they have excellent products with very unsellable prices. Many of them cannot be commercial because the price. As gluing with adhesives, I prefer to use epoxies because they work well in most of the occasions - aluminum, all metals including depolished SS, glass, wood, and many more - and they are simple by using the same materials. Focus is better than attitude, Gil.

I have to give you a GA for a great post that follows my own leanings......I tend to almost exclusively use epoxy where a "hard" strong joint is needed....

When Panoz was manufacturing cars in Brazelton, Ga. they worked closely with Loctite/Permatex, in the development of aluminum bonding systems even before the rest of the auto industry got into it. I would contact Loctite, probably in New Britain, Conn.. In the past, I have spoken with their engineers and have found them to be very willing to help, even in small volume applications. Almost all of their products are available in small quantities.

Hello Jaguar,

Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to ask you, you have an address, e-mail or a name with e-mail to talk about Loctite adhesives or just go to www.loctite.com, and everything can be clear? Thanks again, Gil.

Apparently they've been absorbed into the bowels of the Henkel conglomerate. Try this.