Have someone perform a compression check. They should be able to diagnose if it's rings or valves.

If you want to do it yourself, let us know and we'll walk you through it.

The only thing that has changed is your reaction to the speed of light! (Except time doesn't exist.)

You need to do (or have someone you trust) perform some basic testing. You also need to answer some questions before testing.

1) Did this just start "out of the blue", or did you have service done and this problem occurred immediately?

2) Any warning lights on? Example, "Service Engine Soon"?

3) Fuel mileage drop off dramatically?

4) Does the vibration occur at different or all speeds?

You should perform part or all of the following menu of checks:

Check for proper battery voltage

Install fuel pressure gauge

Check for pressure and volume (check spec table in repair manual)

Install engine analyzer

Check for spark at a minimum of two cylinders

Check for injector pulse at a minimum of two cylinders

Pull codes

Check ECM/ECU data stream

During running, recheck:

Fuel pressure/volume

Primary/secondary ignition scope traces

ECM data stream

Also, you should have a compression test or cylinder leakdown test done if the previous testing does not produce a solution.

Please let us know what you find.

Invent fusion reactor.

Does the car have points, or is it totally electronic ignition. If points, I had many years ago both a Volvo and later a Toyota with this problem, the points were damaged, replacement and adjustment fixed the problem.

I also had another Volvo that had that problem and after much work, I found a tiny rust spot on the plain bearing that was part of the advance and retard mechnism, not allowing the advance and retard to "cleanly" adjust. A clean off and re-oil fixed that problem. But to do it I had to almost completely dismantle the distributor!!!

It took 3 weekends just to find!!!

This fault, of course, could be many things so a proper check should be carried out. However, this is my little suggestion. Slowly increase engine speed. Does the vibration persist past idle? then floor the accelerator and listen if the engine seems to fire on all cylinders evenly. If your answer to the slow increase question is yes, the vibration persists and the answer to the floored throttle is yes too. ie engine sounds smooth, then I would suggest this is a compression thing and leaking valves is the most likely cause.

To understand this one only needs to think of the mass of fueled air needed in both the situations above. Idle needs very little so a leak allows much of the fuel air mix to escape. Full throttle situations however fully charge the cylinder so a small leak becomes of less importance. The reverse is true of ignition problems where the voltage required to ignite rises as the fuel air density increases. That is why most ignition problems present when the engine is under load. Fueling problems related to one cylinder are rare but do occur so dirty injectors of wiring harness problems can present thus.

If you find that a compression leak is suspected, I would suggest a leakage test using compressed air is the most accurate means of finding the fault. If you have hydraulic valve lifters though, they can over jack the valve and lead to this problem but then allow the valve to reseat during a compression/leakage test. See it's not always easy, but persistance.

If you have a valve problem do not allow it to go on, you will burn the seat away in short order.

Richard Harris.

The vibration used to occur on high speed, but this was later traced to broken stabilizer system mounted on the camber. Vibration at high speed stopped as soon as this was fixed.

Again at high speed, the car does not perfom optimally. I seem to notice a kind of drag with cracking noise. Also worthy of mention is the fact that the car air condition used to trip off on low speed. The ABS light indicator does not go off, not until the ignition is switched off.

I need more clues from you.

Regards,

Emma

If you mean the car seems to be running irratically on idle but seems ok on normal running, i would suggest that you look for a split hose, usually connected to the crank case from the inlet manifold. this is a typical fault that most people think is more mechanical so go down the route as descibed like changing plugs etc.

With engine running try to hear for an unusually loud hissing sound(dont get too close or you may need burn cream!!) then put hand around joints of hoses, if the hissing sound subsides you will be in the right area.

If you have a manual for the car then just look up in the engine section about the crankcase connections etc.

I would put money on it being a split hose.

HTH

Where do you live? If your car has the OBD connector required on all US sold cars, it would be a simple matter of having an automotive parts store read the malfunctions that the computer has detected. If you can get that done and then post the results, we will gladly walk you through the problems.

If your car is not equipped with a self diagnosing system, let us know that also. We will just have to ask more questions. Good luck.

A vacuum leak is a very distinct possibility. Wear on any of the engine parts seems unlikely. The car is not old enough, unless it was severely treated. Since your ABS light is on and you most likely have power brakes. I would check for a vacuum leak in the line to the brake booster or the booster itself. The booster check valve could be stuck or the diaphram in the booster is leaking.

Not knowing the location I can only surmise, though emissions warranty is ten years for us and so you may have a condition which the manufacturer's representative (dealer) is best suited to analyze and suggest a cure>