Opening of Engine Throttle Just After Start Up

With a small engine like that, the oil will be up to pressure and circulating within a few revolutions of the engine..., it will als be throw about by the gears, crankshaft etc.
I think it is nonsense to allow 'warm up time' on an engine like that.
But them I'm just another 'armchair expert' like the other 'people'.
Del

I would tend to agree adding that you want the engine oil and parts to run up in temperature before hard acceleration, but that will happen a lot faster than an engine in a car does.

I am amazed at the hoops some people try to jump through to make their engine last as long as it possibly can, yet they sell the vehicle long before any engine wear even begins. The next buyer has no interest in paying a premium for your excessive care anyway.

Just drive it and maintain it exactly like the manufacture recommends and enjoy it.

I don't wait for my bike to reach optimal temp before riding. Usually I wait long enough for the idle to settle into a high idle with the choke on then I take off and turn the choke back off.

If your friend has a newer fuel injected bike, they are more finiky and do require more warm up time or they like to stall.

The main reason you do hear this is because modern sport bikes are closer to the track than almost all cars on the road. The modifications developed on the race track make it into production bikes (in watered down versions) and the bikes have much closer tolerances and are less forgiving. The newer the bike the more likely I would be to allow the engine parts to reach running temp before I go thrashing about on the roads.

As it is, I take it easy until I see my temp come up and my bike is a 2000 year CBR 600 (FX FY) that I bought while stationed in England.

Drew

As Drew stated above the warmup time on newer street bikes ie. Crotch rockets, is specific because of the close tolerances.

Suzuki recommends on my SV650 that you let the engine come up to an operating temperatureof 120 deg. before riding. This takes about 10-15 minutes depending on the outside temperature.

However on my Honda Shadow Aero 750 honda recommends that you allow it to reach a smooth idle before riding. Temperature is not mentioned.(good thing to as I have no temp guage.)

I find that there are a lot of things that manufacturers recommend to be very useful and they do improve the longevity of the motorcycle itself. The biggest thing that is going to make your bike last though is changing the oil at or before the proper intervals and making sure you do all your preventive maintenance.

Also always do your pre season ride checks to make sure everything is fully functional. If you don't know what to check for, its worth the extra money to have your local dealership do this for you. After all your not in a tank, your riding a 2 wheeled machine that you become invisible on as soon as you swing your leg over the seat. You want that thing to perform as flawlessly as possible.

Tell your friend to ride on but to do so safely.

Yeah, that's all well and good but the Q is about a 110cc city bike...unless maybe he left a zero off.
Del

I dissagree with what you say.

What the factory does to "rub off the rough areas" is normal business, new cars are doing the same from the line......the engines do not want to tickover when new.....

But, its always better to let the oil have time to reach all bearings before driving/riding, that will help keep the motor in a good condition for longer.....whether the motor reaches the right temperature first is not a requirement for my cars.....but I do use the very best oil that it is possible to buy.....that helps too....

I wonder if anyone has actually calculated or mesured how many revs of the oil pump it takes to fill the galleries and start moving oil. I bet it's not many, (dunno if the oil pump is geared to rotate faster than the crank? I'd guess it is) I'll bet the stuff is squirting around in a few seconds...where's Blinky when you need him, he's the sort of guy who will have timed this sort of thing?
Del

Until someone does check on how long it takes for the oil to reach all important parts (for each and every motor!!) then I find it still best to "give it some time".

Worst case say 5 seconds, which is how long some engines take for the hydraulic tappets to quieten down (fill with oil!)......I am assuming here that the tappets are the last item to get oil supplied, which may not be true for all engines of course......

For engines without hydraulic tappets, its less easy to know when, therefore I always start the engine, then put on the belt, before driving off/using the throttle at all.

AND as I mentioned earlier, the best oil that you can buy for your engine type and proper regular filter replacements....

Del,

About 10 revolutions. Give or take.

As with riding /driving instructions by the manufacturers of most modern machinery which is don't idle it to warm up, put it to work. The most important factor is to make the thing reach operating temp as quickly as practicable. This is when the components of an engine/ machine fit each other properly.

In the instance of the little bike, the gears are partially submerged.

The very nanosecond that oil spray is released by the big end onto the bore, full effective lubrication has begun. 'Residual lubrication' is what the oil maker has achieved by formulation of his product.

There is no such phenomenon as waiting a few minutes till the oil has reached all of the moving parts. If that's happening the thing is RS.

Its my guess you already know this stuff. Typical bloody cat. Always trying to confuse us.

Cheers,

Stu.

I can't justify the reasons given but the reason is habitual revving and hard use when the engine is cold can cause hot spots which may develop a warped cylinder bore.

Signode, as with my reply to Del, he's not hurting the thing if he's not calling for maximum power immediately the engine starts.

Moderate power levels are required for the engine to reach running temp as soon as possible, so don't sit around idling the thing.

My Dad's generation used to do this and their machinery always wore out prematurely. Mind you, lubrication technology has become very sophisticated, and this helps the modern machine.

For those to whom this may seem a bit off kilter, take a look at those machines which regularly give exceptional service life. Generators an the like. They're at 80% load 12 seconds after starting. I've seen most of them run to 25,000 hours service life.

Cheers,

Stu.

Getting the oil up to the top end is one thing and blipping the throttle isn't good for that. The other problem is that the piston rings and other parts haven't warmed up and won't for a more substantial amount of time. Blipping the throttle is going to blow combustion gasses into the crankcase and shorten the oil life. It's also hard on the mating surfaces of the parts even if they have oil. Those parts have seated at operating temperature and will point load at lower temperatures. That increases wear. For example, our VW states quite frimly (achtung! vorschrift!) that the car is supposed to be gently driven until the coolant temp is over 160F (yeah, it's in America).

I'd just let the engine run at a constant speed long enough for it to not stall when driving (takes a little experience to learn how long that is) and then drive off gently until the engine is warm.

Then whack it open and hit a tree! Solves all your problems with engine life.....

I would tend to follow the instructions in the owners manual if there is any mention of it, otherwise I cannot see the harm in letting it warm up a bit.

I would tend to follow the instructions in the owners manual if there is any mention of it, otherwise I cannot see the harm in letting it warm up a bit.