Motion Sensor Wiring

Dang!

That'll do just fine. ca ce bon!

I spent a half hour looking for the big ol' clumsy outdoor type.

Thank you a bunch Ol' Buddy.....this will do just fine.

Wiring up that laundry room you all helped me with a week or so back.....

Motion sensor lights in the laundry room are great. I wired one up about 6 months ago. My wife thought it was a dumb idea until the first time she walked in with a full laundry basket in the dark. Soon she had me adjusting the turn-off times to match her specifications.

Be sure you don't use the wires for the welder that you included in your laundry room rewire. You will still need them later.

Bruce,

We don't have any more room in the receptacle box for wires.

The Mig connection took up most of the space. I had to duct tape the rest..... That 14 gauge wire sure don't last long with that 220v.........

The 8 connection multiple outlet comes in handy too when we have the grandkids welding outside, the wife running the new dryer and I'm vacuuming all the lose gunpowder off the floor after re-loading.

Oh yea, and the microwave is heating up the gumbo in the next room. Thank Good- ness for the multi-colored duct taped ,Dollar Store, extention cords.

You think I could get a spot on one them high end, remodelling TV shows?

We could call it Good Ol' Boy Renovators !

On a serious note, that is exactly why I want to do it. She is curious right now, but I think she will be surprised and delighted to see how it works out.

Many lamps come with them built in.

Some body will surely feel that this is homework question. I also feel so, still putting it here, as it may generate thought process for few:

I have three lights A, B & C

and two motion sensors located at two different locations. M1 and M2

I want to switch on A & B with M1

and B and C with M2.

Will it be possible?

Please give wiring diagram.

Doorman

The best answer is the simple one. GA

Yo netmaker,

Forget all the dots , using a cellphone, doesn't accept spaces

................on/off...................doppler motion switch 120º

Line ____|___X__________________________________|

.............|....................................| ..........................|

.............| on/off permanent............|...........................|

.............|___X____________________________________|

...................................................|..........................Ð lamp

Neutral__________________________|________________|

Simple enough ?

Got one like this in the hall set @ 3 minutes.

One switch for motion detection/OFF + one for permanent on/off

Works like a charm since years , even the dog puts the light on !!

Greetz. L8rz.. T L

Was I wrong puttin the welder outlet in the kitchen instead of the laundry room?

Always thought the flash from the arc did a good job thawin out the cat food from the chicken processing place across the street.

Trouble at midnight.

The switch in the room has two black wires connected together at one set screw.

There is a single black wire at the bottom set screw.

All the white ( nuetrals) are wired together.

The Motion Detector instructions has two black wires.

I wired one with the existing two blacks and the other to the single black.

I wired the green to the bare copper wire inside the box.

The lights turned on with the manual ON .

They never cut off.....

I adjusted the timer screw as directed and the motion / daylight screw. Still the lights remained on.

I disconnected the Green ground....still nothing.

When I went back to the manual ON, the light went off partially.....There are 2 U shaped T-8 florescents. One and only one would glow very , very low....It never went off entirely.

I just took out everything and put the old switch back in. Lights go on and off as always.Neither glows , they both go out totally.

Hopefully by tomorrow when I check back, one of you will have an answer.

Thank you as always.

Unfortunately these switches do not work with inductive loads (fluorescent lights).

I found this out the other day and need to find a switch that will work myself.

Adding an incandescent lamp to the circuit made it work, at least until I get around to finding a switch that supports fluorescents..

P,

It plainly stated on the box, will work with fluorescent lighting or incadescent.

Who knows.

Thank you.

It seems that the motion detector model you have needs to see the neutral through the light tubes:

- Since only a phase is going into the motion detector and the 2nd wire goes to the light fittings, How can the detector work? It needs some current to flow through it.

Fluorescent lights have a wound choke if of the old normal type, and an electronic system if the newer type.

It might be that not enough voltage is developped to make the detector function properly: I suggest that you put a normal Incandescent bulb in parallel with the fluorescent tubes (Only One and it can be of a low wattage like 40W if you prefer) and try the motion detector.

I hope this will help.

Luke,

How do I wire it to a 40 watt incadescent?

Motion device has two blacks, one green ( not shown)

Incadescent has Black and White no green or ground.

Thank you.

Page four of the link I gave you in post #1 has a wire diagram (for Leviton, anyway). If there are no instructions inside the carton of the one you bought, perhaps review the link and start there.

Datasheet says it will work with flourescent, too...

D,

Except for the fact that both wires are black on my Cooper model sensor, that is exactly how I wired it.

The light will only come on with the manual button and in AUTO mode, will NOT shut off.

When I do shut it off with the MANUAL button, one of the two lights just glows like a really weak flashlight.

???

Is it my wiring in the switch box?

Are you certain the neutral wire is to the fixture, and the line is direct to the switch? Do you really have a good ground? If no, there is no way for the PIR to energize.

Are the two black wires marked somehow? Is the one intended for line voltage connected to the line?

[Edit] I find the datasheet for a Cooper 6105 indicates it will not work with electronic ballast fixtures. Can you confirm this is the case? As I consider, can you also confirm this fixture is not controlled by another switch?

It is an Electronic Ballast. (I dug out the box the light came in.)

I'll use it for the back door of the shop instead.

The wife has worked with less than this one convenience for 35 years. ha ha !

Thank you.

Where I bought it (one of those Big Ol' Home Improvement Stores), both a manager and a customer rep in the Lighting Fixture dept. said it was all good to go.

No problem....I just learned something new and THAT is worth the trouble.

Thank you again.

OK.

The normal switch is usually wired on the Live line, i.e. The Live wire, Black, goes trough the switch and then to the light fitting. The Neutral wire, White, goes directly to the fitting.

On your detector, the same is happening: The live goes in, through the electronics, and then to the 2nd black wire. Between the two black wires, there will be the switching device that will send the full live voltage to the light fitting (no details here). the neutral is still going there directly with the white wire.

To connect the Incandescent Lamp, you wire the outgoing black wire to the black of the fitting and the white of the fitting to the neutral white wire.

To know the incoming Black:The looping Black wires are usually Live and incoming.

Before removing the Normal manual switch, check with a voltmeter between the Double Black and the White to see if you will have a voltage reading. The switch should be in the OFF. If there is a reading of 220V (or 115V), then it is the live, as it should be by standard.

LAA,

Thank you for the schematic and information.

I just have a question. Does this by chance have 2 light switches operating the fixture? Could this be the issue? One by the back door and the other one by the entry point into the room from inside the house? If i am not mistaken sometimes or under certain conditions the neutral can be the wire that runs through the switch???? I ran into this before on an old house where the white wire was the switched wire. Electrician buddy of mine told me that under certain conditions this is acceptable code wise. Just a thought.

"...the neutral can be the wire that runs through the switch???? I ran into this before on an old house where the white wire was the switched wire. Electrician buddy of mine told me that under certain conditions this is acceptable code wise...."

I am a residential electrician and I know of NO situation where switching the neutral is acceptable. I am willing to be enlightened, but a switched neutral is just an invitation to get shocked. I have repaired a couple, one where a person got shocked changing a bulb. Please, if you run into that correct it.

No. There is only one switch in the room for that wire.

Thank you for the input though.

I use an outdoor light sensor to switch the brick lights (incandescent) on our stairs - they work great, and while it is now a few years since I wired it up, I am sure there were three connections - Active, neutral and switched - active and neutral provide power to the sensor and switch and the neutral and switched control the lights. I also have a manual switch in the active feed to the sensor to disable it and to program it.

I haven't seen an arrangement like you describe, because it would have to be drawing power through the lights all the time to power the switch!

Regards
Bill

I have seen both types of motion sensor wiring. The ones I prefer have a neutral connection to the motion detector device. The ones that are in series on the hot conductor only don't always work as expected and often won't play well with electronic ballasts. Can't give you a brand right now, I don't do too many of them. I agree with the idea of putting an incandescent lamp in parallel with any fluorescent you want to control if things don't work as expected.

All is good. There seems to be no way to make it work with the flourescent and the electronic ballast.

I am all set to wire it up to a light in the back of the shop. Everything worked out and most of all, I learned some more about 'lectricty.....

Solving problems do not always have happy endings.......unless you learn something in the process. I will NOT have auto light in the new laundry room right now....but I will find one that works with the light fixture I have and set it up sometime in the future.

However, I learned a little about electricty and wiring diagrams so I figure I came ahead even though my problem did not get solved.

Thank you all again as usual.

why don't you simply use my working system?

The doppler effect unit is in ANY DIY for sale for appr $8.50 , got an internal relay and works with ANY sort of lighting included fluorescent armatures.

You can adjust the duration of the lights to remain on

AND

the sensitivity of the unit.

T L.

I already have found one like I suspect you were describing. It is a commercial unit that is used in office buildings. Pricy....but it is guaranteed to work with any type floursecent set up.

I may not put it in until next week or so as I am back in the shop with some work that came in and will have to let the remodelling go for a few days.....ahhh shucks!

Thank you for the info.

Is the model suitable for 230 V AV lighting loads? I need some 100 nos. Please send the catalog and contact details

Yes they are for 230 v AC ,

Contacts 1 phase , neutral , 1 relay output 5 amps

brochures ? further details? simply look in the link_address

T L

Hopefully you are using a grounded tool, hose and vacuum when cleaning up the gunpowder. Most any powder tends to spark when being vacuumed.

Simple series circuit, diagram comes with the box from Lowes or Home depot, you need a special one if you're feeding a fluorescent light fixture.

You're getting yourself into weird dreams

a simple series circuit

the original question was just for a normal motion sensor without idiotic fuzz.

Simply off the shelf, nothing fancy , they're EVERYWHERE for sale.

T L.