Les,

Can you send us the nameplate information. Manufacturer, model # and even serial number.

I take it you don't have the manual?

Gidday mate,

only have Installation instructions insufficent information to rectify fault

International Comfort Products:

Model: EDM 2X48JA1

Serial No: X061008684

Gidday to you too,

Welcome to the USA and CR4, and I hope your stay is pleasant, and warm.

There are some very smart people here, so maybe you can have some heat soon.

The extent of my knowledge is to hold the "button" down until it starts. Some units require that you hold the "button" down for a couple of minutes to allow the thermocouple to come up to heat. Don't know what you've tried so far.

What part of the country are you visiting? I live in Arizona most of the time, so we never worry about heaters.

I am in Oklahoma visiting freinds, I am from Australia's north west where at home this time of the year its around 45 degrees C.

The system is fully automated, thermostatically controlled. Best i can ascertain is it operates as a reverse cycle AC uniy until a certain temp then switches to gas heating. Its at this point the unit fails, i would say thermocouple does not reach desired temp thus signalling fail to light hence the soft lockout.

Replace the thermocouple

I located the company website but it is less than helpful for anything but sales jargon. Since they can get the system to briefly ignite, I believe that you have a safety interlock problem. Taking a wild guess about the problem I would first investigate the flue for any kind of an obstruction that was blocking exhaust gas flow. Next I would verify that what ever detects heat being produced (IR sensor, bimetallic strip, etc.) responds to the flame being produced.

This just might be something that your friend should hand off to a professional familiar with this model. It is rare but, every year somebody dies here from a poorly maintained furnace. The last thing anybody wants is a fatality from something you did or overlooked.

Thanks do not intend tampering with things I am unfamilar with, was looking for the simple fix.

Since it does light, maybe a service call from a local HVAC company is in order. It probably is a simple fix. They would know right away.

The furnace boiler in use here does a similar thing when the water temperature thermostat is turned up a gnat's too high. Try turning it down a degree or three and see if the problem persists.

This is the cooling coil number. Furnace # is inside the cover to the furnace. Does it light and then burn or just not start to burn?

The first two things I'd check:

• Check the flame sensor--it may need cleaning or to be replaced--google for "flame sensor" "gas furnace"
  

• Check the air filters on the combustion air inlet--and, in general, make sure nothing is blocking the combustion air
  

Likely the thermo heat sensor, It somtimes gets a build up of carbon. Take some steel wool or fine sandpaper and clean this off. be gentle while doing this. If this is not the problem call a repair person. the sensor is located in the main burner flame area. should be easy to get at.

oilcan13

I only have experience on industrial furnaces; however, there are several interlocks, usually in series, that are involved.

1. door interlock- the cover (usually vented) has to be in place
2. air flow sensor - fan is up to speed before pilot ignites
3. flu sensor interlock - flu must be open before furnace will light
4. pilot flame sensor - pilot potential sensor (newer system)
5. flame start - hold button until thermocoupole comes up to temperature (usually 3 - 5 minutes)

There may be more, or less, sensors; however, these are usually present.

If you have to do a power-up hard boot, there may be a problem with the logic board.

Easy checks:

1. door interlock switch - open/close - continuity
2. air flow switch - open/close continuity
3. flue interlock - open/close continuity
4. pilot sensor - thermocouple (usually) visual check (broken?)
5. ignitor potential primary relay (potter-bloomfield) - remove relay from circuit, check coil check points for wear and bluing, chenck operation

I forgot to add don't confuse the sensor with the ignitor. If you touch the ignitor You can damage it!

oilcan13

If it's lighting and then going off you are fighting a bad high limit #2, or a loss of flame recognition #1. Clean connections for the burner ground. It's seeing flame through flame rectification looking for 2-8 milliamps back to the ignition module, put the meter in series to read. There are sometimes condensation build up problems in the dp switch. The moisture comes from the gas and you can simply blow it out. The only other 'soft' safeties are the spill switch and the t-stat.

In Oklahoma I dont think the Banks would Loan any money to purchase that

House because of the old furnace in it. My solution would be to buy a new

Eden Pure Space Heater for each room.They have three sizes.ds

I had a similar situation. All the usual suspects were checked out and it finally turned out to be an expensive temperature sensor that was sensing a too-hot burner. No problem when not too cold, as burner cycle was shorter. When the sensor shut the furnace down, it was off for a while, tho' turning it on and off would restore normal function for a while.

I see reference to "GAS" furnace. Is it natural gas, or is it propane? If propane, could the tank be empty? Look for a large white cylinder laying on its side typically outside the house.

Bill