Help to Identify Fried IC Component

Without even looking, I'm willing to bet that a new oven will be cheaper than trying to chase down parts and fix the old one.

Seen the movie. Got the T shirt.

If you've got magic smoke.................inhale it. Then go buy a new oven.

replacing this oven $ 5500

does the maths come back in the picture now ?

Fix it. Keep track of your parts, shipping and labor............including the time you've put into this thread.

Show me a pretty picture.............and I'll eat my hat.

Don't forget down time.

By the time I get done eating my hat, you'll be on here again with another problem with the same unit.

I'm not laughing at you. I'm laughing at myself, and the time I've wasted chasing down cheap fixes.

Keep us posted.

i wont discount the possibility

shall keep you posted :)

This looks like a deal....it's on wheels too...

well done

yes there was a failed electrolytic cap which i can replace

the cost of an IC and capacitor is likely to be about $ 5

add 2 - 3 hours labour its still way ahead of $ 1200

and yes i am looking for loan benchtop power supply from a friend to use for testing purposes so i can power up the computer inside this thing and test all other functions using the three different voltages required.

all the points you made above are intelligent paths in the diagnostics process

thankyou

Posted something stupid: Deleted it.

Note to self: _{Read all the responses to thread, before replying}.

Good luck.

Wow. Lyn got humble!

I would look for a good used one or lease perhaps....

http://www.ncequipmentsales.com/product.asp?id=68349

the black sludge is airborne grease which has solidified on the board ( even though it may look like heat damage its not )

i suspect it has formed there because some idiot fitted an external cover plate upside down , resulting in a cooling fan being obstructed and failing to suck greasy air out of the electrical compartment.

with no cooling fan doing its job the temperature inside this cavity would have risen , creating the conditions for component failure

thankyou for your good contribution also

There's your root cause, the lack of ventilation accelerated the chemical degradation process of the electrolytic capacitors. So to make any repair of this oven not turn into the futile exercise that kramarat implied, I would replace every electrolytic capacitor in this oven. You might have just a few days of operation time left on the remaining components if you don't replace them, too. The man hours quickly climb when a thermal failure happens.

you might have nailed this

the component is marked " ST " matching that maker

early days but will follow up more on the data sheets for the chip ID , hopefully its not a special part made for Hobart by ST Microelectronics

thankyou

Okay i checked and the component is definitely marked "_ _" 4862A not 4962

It is also marked with ST but they have no reference for L4862A or 4862A on their website

:(

must be close lol

There is always the possibility you have to deal with a custom part, even if it would be an overkill for a PS. (But does give one the nerve to ask for 1.2K right?) Anyway to be sure you MUST clean thoroughly with different (depending on contamination type) NON ABRASSIVE chemicals. I'd start with IPA and soft plastic brush, dry and preferably use a microscope, not a magnifier. An exploded IC can be harder to identify than you think. S.M.

Haven't tried, but it will most likely work, and you can drink some, waiting for IC to soak. Anyway, think I was refering to this IPA. S.M.

yes Isopropal alcohol , ether ( aerostart ) and eucalyptus oil all work in that cleaning role

( suggest not drinking the aerostart )

;)

have a good evening gentlemen

If this were my problem....

I would not waste any time repairing it

I would not waste money on an original replacement

I would source an after market, heavy duty (derate for hot environment) equivalent. You may need more than 1 to get all the voltage rails required. Quick, easy, cheap and above all RELIABLE.

A long shot but when long shots hit they are just as deadly as close range. Try replacing the missing letters or numbers (probably letters) with***, Sometimes the computers will pick up on this and give a list of components containing the numbers you can read. By going through the data sheets you may be able to identify your component. 30 years of faded, burnt, sloppy printing has taught me a lot about how to find 'hen's teeth'. I would agree with you in trying to find the component rather than pay $1200.00 for a new one. Technicians FIX circuits boards, tinkers with lots of money are screw monkeys. Remove the screws and replace the board, anyone can do that!

Gillight

Hi Anonymous,

Please may you email me a zoomed in picture of the IC to raubenheimer_robert@yahoo.com or if you know how poste it on this comment thread. Red Fred is right in saying that ALL the caps need to be replaced. Don't try to just replace the ones that are buldging, capacitors are passive components that have a lifespan of 3 - 10 years depending on its temperature rating, looks to me that these are the 103 degree ones. Theses probably won't last that long in a heated environment such as an oven and the electrolyte paste will dry up quicker than normal. If possible also email me the underside of the board so I can see where it is "Sweating". Check the junction drop on the diode too and bridge rectifier (The black round thing), make sure you do it out of circuit. If you need help doing this let me know. Thanks.

Rob.

thanks Robotech , i will post a photo here later , you can delete your email address if possible to avoid 10,000 emails from nice people inviting you to share their rich nigerian uncles inheritance

:)

thats the best i can do with my current camera , looks like a " W " at the start of what ends with _ _ _ 9918

bottom line would be " Malaysia "

does that help ?

there is a transformer soldered to the back of the PCB and i wont be able to remove it to get you the photos of the copper tracks

( not for a few days anyway due to some urgent client obligations )

the other hope is if i could find someone with a Hobart CDS 1012E Combi oven they could just look inside and tell me the full part number of their undamaged item.

thankyou people

Robotech, it is against CR4 rules to post email addresses. have the OP send you a private message so that you can swap email addresses.

P.S. I would suggest cleaning the board with the following chemical by using a coarse hair paintbrush, looks like there is soot or something on the board, this could have caused the problem to begin with. I had my fair share of shorted relay and contactor coils when I used to repair industrial kilns for smoking salmon due to soot. Nasty stuff! Here is the link: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70159740

You got more than just a fried IC the PCB looks to be blown to me, you'v got the relevent part no's for the board, you should be able to get a new unit.

Bazzer

I would disconnect the board and run the various voltage wires out through a flexible conduit to a new unit sitting on the floor at the back with its own mains connection.

First check it out with a few portable PSUs spread around the floor. This will show if there's any faults in the rest of the internal circuitry, which you can identify and hopefully trace if they exist.