A lot of times, outside equipment is not wired up to an outlet, the plug can corrode, and it's difficult to find a really good outside receptacle.

For safety, a disconnect switch is popular. It's usually a knife switch in a weatherproof box, with the appliance directly wired to it, no plug. That way a service man can easily turn off the appliance without having to touch the appliance or the cord. This is especially handy when things are getting a little sparky. Basically it is code.

Cord manufacturers don't make much black/red/green cord, so we use the standard black/white/green cord for 220, and use the white wire for the other hot. I like to put black tape on the white wire to remind everyone that it is hot.

Double check this with your local electrician, avoid lawsuits and such.

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Cord manufacturers don't make much black/red/green cord, so we use the standard black/white/green cord for 220, and use the white wire for the other hot. I like to put black tape on the white wire to remind everyone that it is hot.

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That's a good answer for the plug end on the pump, not sure why then a double pole single throw switch in a standard outlet box wouldn't work for low cost...

What is your take on the Heat Pump wiring with 1 leg of 120v to L and the other leg of 120v to N and Nuetral to ground? Here is a snippet of the wiring diagram:

Dont you fear that the tape may melt? I really dont see what is your problem...

You have a engine that operates at 220V, but you got 120V yes... do you got 3 phases? (are they the RST?) I can see quite a blast with that connection! puff!

hope you got good protection!

<I really don't see what is your problem...

It is 1Ph power...what do you think...two 120 legs to a 230v appliance?

what do I think? assuming that I can think anything about that you mean...

if got still two 120 legs it is better that just one, that´s what I think!

Oh, the hazards of mixing foreign and American electrical systems! In England, everything is 220, and it may be that one wire is 220, the white (neutral) has no power, and the green is safety ground. That's what the diagram you posted looks like to me. No way it will run on American power, in my opinion, but I may be wrong.

In American three phase, Delta, there is a 'hot' leg that is 220. That and a neutral and a ground will maybe make this system work. 'Wye' doesn't have that hot leg.

I would definitely take this to an electrician.

Is the equipment non-American made, and just where is the original poster living? That should be a mandatory thing in this forum, we can't answer properly if we don't know all the facts!

Netizens! The world is flat - Friedman; A quick web search brings up all sorts of enticing goods, from All over...Goods with different power supplies may work, with the correct tool.

This item is non-american made, 230v, 1ph, 60hz

I am seeing a step up transformer in my future.

The early part of this thread, as well as the manufact rep for the first appliance said for My US power supply

• Line Black(120v) to Load Black
• Line Red(120v) to Load White
• Line Neutral to Load Green.

Yes, you did say you were in the US, sorry about that. I'm hoping someone may know if this item will work with power connected to the white, you just might luck out. I always check this sort of thing, as electricity only gives you one chance, no do-overs.

There was an answer for me at another site...

"You have two hots, 240 volts between them.

"Connect one hot to "N", one hot to "L", and a ground wire (green or bare) to the ground. White can not be used as a ground. You will need a 30 amp circuit for this appliance and #10 wire.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-c-d-c/473029-single-phase-230v-60hz-5kw-us-two-120v-legs.html#ixzz1xsw64dYT