No. It has to switch at the correct time. That correct timing is accomplished either by the back emf off of the motor or a centrifugal switch the works on speed.

The extent of necessary repairs here indicates to me hat this motor is not worth saving. In other words if the klixon is bad and the voltage relay or centrifugal switch is bad and the contactor coil is bad then maybe there is a really good reason that you will only discover AFTER having spent the time and money to replace all of those secondary failures.

Maybe you are disappointed with some answer , but mine was correct , but not complete.

I handle A/C since 1970 , and the potential start relay do it in the best way .

Look at this: APR5 UNIVERSAL POTENTIAL RELAYS

It work as a normally closed contact relay , until the tension is enough to open an keep out the starting capacitor . for A/C we usually fit a 90/100 mFarad rated at 440 V , since we use here 220 AC .

A thermal overload "KLICSON" is used at the Common connector to avoid overload current if the motor do no start, it work by thermic load on a bimetal , so you must wait until it reclosed itself.

As a A/C repairman I used to have a starting panel with the Potential or Voltimetric Relay , suited with a sort of Run capacitor , and only the 90/110 mF Start Capacitor ,

Then I pick out all wire from de connection box , and connect my STARTING PANEL wires , to know if problem is with the Motor , or the related circuitry .

Also you can check the motor , without any load , or free axle , connecting Hot to the COMMON convector , neutral to the RUN connector , and a normally open contact to the TART connector., ALL WITH A PREVIOUS BIPOLAR THERMIC MAGNECTIC SWITCH RATED according with the motor, usually 25 Amp for 220 Volt

To know which one each connector is , you have to mark the end wires from the motor Sure you have only 3 wires , so mark A B C , read with a ohmmeter between each pair

maybe you can get , just a sample

A-B 10 Ohm

B-C 50 Ohm

and

A-C 60 Ohm ,

hence

A-B is the RUN coil

B-C is the STARTING Coil

so the B is the connector to Common

A the RUN connector

C the START connector

Or if you have 4 wire , you can only measure 2 pair , AB , and CD the one with higher OHMS is the STARTING coil

Hope you understand it , apologize my poor English .

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