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13 comments
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 14

Fluorescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 1:32 PM

Hey,

I have replaced a magnetic ballast for my twin 8' bulb florescent light fixture in my workshop. I can only get electronic ballasts now in CT, so I cross referenced and purchased and installed as instructed (differently from original ballast), but now it blew out 3 bulbs; so I replaced ballast, made sure it was grounded and now it goes on for a few seconds and the shuts itself off. Heat doesn't seem to be the problem.

Any know-how out there that can tell me what I've done wrong? Thanks in advance.

Alan

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Pathfinder Tags: Electronic ballast florescent fixture
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#1

Re: Florescent light fixture failure

07/08/2012 2:11 PM

Review the steps and equivalent output guide at this link....

http://keystoneballast.com/conversion

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: Florescent light fixture failure

07/08/2012 2:31 PM

Looking carefully at the 120 volt wiring for the ballasts, the electronic one has the white wire going only to the ballast, whereas on the magnetic one had a white wire going to a bulb. Little things make a difference.

I like the new ballasts, they are lighter, and hopefully use less current. For sure they use less copper and steel.

I keep the box for future reference in case I have to re-wire something, it has a schematic on it.

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#3
In reply to #1

Re: Florescent light fixture failure

07/08/2012 2:51 PM
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#4
In reply to #3

Re: Florescent light fixture failure

07/08/2012 3:04 PM

Ok. I have to know. Is your tag line "live well" as in have a good life; or "live well" as in a place to keep fish, since I assume you have a boat?

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#11
In reply to #4

Re: Florescent light fixture failure

07/09/2012 1:22 AM

It's the best revenge....

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#5

Re: Florescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 3:36 PM

Thanks Guys, but I have adheared to all these criterium, and am still a bit confounded as to why it would come on just fine for several seconds and then just shut off. Yes, the wiring is different from the old magnetic ballast, so I made sure I did that correctly but..................... Exhasperating

Alan

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#6
In reply to #5

Re: Florescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 5:20 PM

Then you probably have a bad connection in the wiring someplace or the bulb sockets...or one of the bulbs is bad....or the ballast is bad, in that order of probability...

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#9
In reply to #6

Re: Florescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 9:30 PM

or it could be a switch that you installed,(an unknown variable) that you failed to mention.....LOL everything is 20/20 in hind site....

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#7

Re: Florescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 7:17 PM

Well, yeah I figured that too, so I returned the second ballast and for $8 more I replaced the whole fixture. Only to find that it was the pull switch I had installed on the old fixture that went bad. Fortunately I had a replacement of that to install on the new fixture and VOILA, I'm back in the light. Thanks for all your help.

Al

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#8
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Re: Florescent Light Fixture Failure

07/08/2012 8:49 PM

Rosanne Rosannadanna would have something to say about this.

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#10

Re: Fluorescent Light Fixture Failure

07/09/2012 1:03 AM

Hi Alan,

Did u purchase the Electronics ballast by the Length of the Tube or by Wattage.

In Fluorescent Tubes there are 2 Version available one with Low Output and High Output.

For Eg: In T5 FTL same length with have 14 W and 21 W , so the Ballast to be rated for the Wattage of the Tubes.

Keep me posted.

Thanks,

Senthil

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#12
In reply to #10

Re: Fluorescent Light Fixture Failure

07/09/2012 7:09 AM

To my knowledge, high output is used only for low temperatures (around 40 deg. f ). The difference is the starting current to get the fluorescence to start at the lower temperature

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#13

Re: Fluorescent Light Fixture Failure

07/09/2012 7:58 AM

The truth about fluorescent lamps is as follows:

All fluorescent lamps require a tiny amount of mercury to produce the UV light that is converted to visible light by the powder coating. There is no phosphorus in a fluorescent lamp. The amount of mercury is a sphere with about the same diameter as the period at the end of this sentence. Any more is baggage.

All lamps of the same diameter are basically the same except for the buffer gas (argon, krypton, or neon) and the coil or electrode interface to the gas.

Each diameter is designed to run at a particular current that is usually optimum for that gas/pressure range of buffer gas. The gas type and pressure determines the voltage drop from one end of the lamp to the other, once it ignites. The ballast is usually designed to work as a current limiter with a fairly wide tolerance of lamp voltages. A family of products will tend to use the same current which makes them quite interchangeable.

The impedance of a lamp changes from megaohms (when off) to a few hundred ohms when on. Without the ballast, the current would increase until the wires sealed in the glass (at the ends of the lamp) becomes hot enough to crack the glass. Other things can also happen such as vaporizing of the wires which then redeposit inside with a nice mirror finish, given enough time before the air rushes in.

Typical fluorescent lamps are at low pressure to aid current flow. Higher pressure (Too many atoms) will interfere with propagation of electrons.

Mixing ballast types with lamp types is generally unsuccessful as it over drives or under drives the lamp. Lamps intended to operate at High Output or Very High Output have heaver coils (electrodes) to resist vaporization at the higher current. A High output lamp operates at roughly twice the normal lamp current. A VHO or very high output lamp operates at roughly four times the normal lamp current.

The light output peaks when the bulb temperature is maintained at about 40°C. Higher or lower temperatures reduce the light output. Energy saver lamps generally never reach this temperature because the Krypton fill gas tends to interfere a bit more with electron propagation. The lamp pressure of a Krypton filled bulb will therefore be slightly lower than other lamps in its family.

Lamp wattage is a function of arc length and current. The best return on investment in fluorescent lamps over the life expectancy is T8. Everything else is subject to a variety of failures to wide to mention.

Lastly, there are only two basic ways to operate a fluorescent lamp. One way provides energy to the coil (hot cathode) and the other way treats the coil as a simple electrode (cold cathode). All ballast types are some form of one or the other types. The ballast type that gets the most life from a lamp actually switches from hot cathode (to start the lamp) to cold cathode (to run the lamp). These ballasts will generally obtain more life from the product than it should provide.

Lamp life is determined by the rate of deterioration of the electrode and its coating.

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