It sounds like an ABS fault, perhaps a sensor has malfunctioned. There is also a possibility it could be a strut failure.

This is almost like taking a boat ride without a life vest. Have it checked by a mechanic ASAP before something very bad happens.

I would also suggest replacing the brake fluid when your vehicle service, This should be done every two or so years as a matter of course to prevent brake failures.

There are several service bulletins on 2000 Toyotas for brakes. These "Recalls" may affect your vehicle and I don't know if they are related to this issue, but you should take this very seriously.

Call your dealer and give them your VIN number and a description of the problem. The dealer will be able to tell you if you have any recalls that have not been addressed with your vehicle.

Bottom line, get on the phone this Monday and call your dealer for an appointment before your brakes stop working or cause an accident.

Take it to the shop!!!!

Do not try to troubleshoot or repair this yourself.

I'd not be going 80mph till I got it fixed, either!

Save a few lives, take it to a pro.

That's scary.... That you removed the ABS fuse before asking anyone, I mean!

That braking you do.. Is it hard braking, with big pressure on your brake pedal? Or braking made in low friction surfaces, such as wet asfalt or gravel?

If so, that "hard knocking sound" you refer is the probe that your ABS system is simply WORKING CORRECTLY. This is what an ABS is supposed to do, which is: When the braking force intended is bigger than those that the friction between each wheel and ground below can cope, the system "releases oil pressure" (simplification) to cut down that braking pressure, thus avoiding major wheel lock, and keeping them turning. I skip here the details why a locked wheel is not the best way to brake nor keep car control, please google any "how ABS works".

Anyway I agree with the previous topics on: go to your garage shop, have them confirm the above with a small drive test. Get this fuse back. And, in general, let me advice to keep your hands within your knowledge domain, meaning (as my father would say) "If you do not know what is that, don't touch it"

And, drive smoother... You should not be making use of the ABS any often, if you wanted to drive safe!

(All in the assumption of the starting analysis was right)

Cheers,

I have to disagree about the fuse removal.

People seem to have forgotten that having ABS is a relatively recent innovation in cars.....so taking the fuse out was a valid and correct part of the diagnosis.....the shop would do the same I am sure....and its only dangerous if you then drive like a maniac into situations where ABS may have been a good helper.....

Removing the fuse not only stops ABS working, but also ESP on many cars, another relatively recent innovation that one can do without for a time.

ABS working at the wrong time could be far more dangerous than no ABS......

The fact that the ABS appears to be thinking that one particular wheel is "stopping" and its then trying to regulate that wheel, indicates to me that its most likely that this sensor, or the rotor, that is at fault, or the wiring to it.....

It could be something that a good car mechanic amateur might fix, or attempt to fix, without great risks........it certainly won't be any worse that some of the shop fixes we have seen here and definitely a lot cheaper.

I personally would swap the sensors on the front wheels (after noting the exact distance it is set relative to the rotor/toothed wheel)....If the problem stays with the same wheel its the wiring, if it moves, its the sensor. If its fixed, then it was the distance to the rotor/toothed wheel......

It could even be that wheel bearings are too loose and need adjustment/replacement......

Till its fixed, I would not drive on the normal roads with the fuse in, I would take it out before going to the shop for example as constant ABS working screwing around on one wheel could be very dangerous.....

You have only taken a twenty year step back int the past, not removed the brakes by the fuse removal.....drive accordingly.....

On unmade roads, or on snow, ABS can actually increase the braking distance......

If Op was really standing on the brakes when he noticed the knocking it may well just be normal ABS behaviour.

The brake modulator noise and foot sensation is quite startling when its experienced for the first time.

Taking out the ABS fuse disables the modulator motor so no ABS will be performed hence no "noise". Normal braking isn't handicapped.

What does the car's manual say about the ABS light?

Changing the brake fluid is prudent in older cars using DOT4. Apparently DOT6 doesn't degrade like DOT 4...... A reputable brake specialist will be able to advise.

80M per hour is approx .075 MPH. I wouldn't worry too much about brakes.

What is an "M"? Mega something?

The OP said 80m/hour which is about my top swimming speed.

thanx to all u guys who gave constructive ideas i took it to the mechanic and the abs motor pump is the one tht was malfunctioning he changed it and nw im bek on the road and comfy as ever