You need a motor starter.

Given that you did not know this, I STRONGL:Y suggest that you hire a licensed electrical contractor to install the legal required components in a legal required way. This is not the place to learn stuff like that.

By the way, those diagrams from Load Controls? Worst ever, other than those done on a napkin...

Very good point you have there. I think I'll be bringing in someone to do that part of the wiring as that was the only part I couldn't seem to figure out.

I'm with JRaef. Hire someone to show you how to do this the first time.

The Load Controls PMP-25 measures the power the motor consumes. Why do you want to measure motor power? What does a motor power measurement have to do with filling or emptying the tank?

The link to the Flowline fails to open, so it isn't clear what that device does.

The level switches can be wired through a DPDT relay for pump-up or pump-down control, but it requires some electrical and controls understanding.

Load Controls does everything based on motor shaft power kW, it's a method of monotiring based on the loading of the pump motor itself to interpret what's happening. The level switches turn it on or off, but the PMP-25 makes sure there is sufficient load on the pump, i.e. enough head in the system to make it work and avoid cavitation or running dry, plus it makes sure it isn't working too hard, i.e. a broken pipe or a bad bearing. I'ts just a backup pump protection system as opposed to waiting for an Over Load Relay to trip, which for some submersible pumps is too late.

The Flowline link opens for me. It seems to be a sensor amp (ie the unit supplies power to a two wire prox. sensor and has a dry relay output based on the state of the sensor(s)) with a two sensor start/stop control and a spare sensor amp for alarm function.

The data-sheet also shows how to change the supply voltage to 240v so a separate transformer isn't needed.

I would also like to state that should you change the internal voltage jumpers you should clearly mark the outside of the case to that effect so that a replacement part is not installed unmodified at a later time.

An alternative would be to run the whole system off a 208v 4wire supply (the motor you specified is rated 208-230v) with the control connected between one line and Neutral. This voltage is very common in North American factories. I don't know where you are located.

It also occurred to me that if it were safe to run the pump dry for a few seconds then you could use the under-current contact on the pmp25 instead of a bottom switch. You would certainly want an electrical engineer to verify the safety of this in terms of the detailed specs of all devices involved.