Hanging a Product on a Drywall Wall

4 pounds is not even 2Kg.

3 screw points should be fine (remember you need one in the middle for a single mount and one on each side for two screw mounting). Two screw point mounting may be a good idea if the object is at waste height and subject to being walked into or knocked.

Also don't forget that the consumer may not want to drill holes in the wall and instead use adhesive supports (for example), so don't forget to make sure the support holes will also accept these standard hooks as well as screws.

Hi JoaT,

Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks for the advice.

I, too, have considered the 3M products, but I need to learn about their support strength as well. I plan to check with 3M, and if applicable, they might be willing to cooperate with my customer to have their products included.

Kind regards ...

It seems to me the packaging gives a rating as to how many pounds the 3M-tape/wall-anchor will support.

You could probably google the info and find what you need.

Note that today's google mainpage is dedicated to Douglas Adams, who wrote 'Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy'.

Yes, commercial product semi-permanent adhesive technology has come a long way but some wall surfaces will not be suitable for this technology. Another reason to have the good old drywall screw as a mounting option.

Not always true.

Double sided tape has two sides to fail, and it all comes down to surface energies and cleanliness. Then there's the paint/drywall interface that could fail too.

These work very well. The only complaint my wife customer has ever given me about using these anchors is the large hole left after easily removing the plastic insert from the wall. I've tried to explain about distributing the load over a larger area and that Spackle fills the hole but then I get the look.

Lyn your anchor is one I personaly use to install security mirrors on walls where there is no stud work behind the dry wall. Managers never want a mirror installed where there is a stud go figure. The packaging I used the other day rated these fasteners at 55 lbs each. I have only had one failure in 5 years of using them, found out the stock boys were throwing the adult diapers on the top shelf and were hitting the mirror. It lasted for two years of this abuse guess it should hold up 4 lbs without any problems. Duke.

Except when you hit a stud, then they tear a big hole in your wall and leave you really pissed off. Some walls may have metal studs, so the type designed to go into studs if they hit them won't work. That type doesn't seem to work anyway. Tonymech's idea may be the best, with a note in your product to inform the customer that they may need other types of fasteners depending on the type of wall they have.

These are the best multi-purpose drywall anchors ever. I've been using these for about 15 years and only had one failure, which was my fault. They have some rated for 75 lbs also, and metal versions too. I find when I need to hang something level, I drill a 3/16" pilot so the insert doesn't wander, and also confirms whether a stud is present. If removed carefully, they only leave a 3/16" hole to spackle. 20 pack $4-6.

I think the originals of these anchors are called EZ-Anchors. I've used them for years, and these are all I carry for wallboard anchors. Some are rated up to 75 lbs, but 50 is more usual. The white plastic part has a cutting tip on one end and the other end is a phillips flat head-- you drive the plastic anchor in like any other self-drilling screw. They end up pretty damn close to flush with the wall, maybe protruding 1/32". The phillips head has a hole in it that runs down inside the shaft, so once the anchor is set, you drive a metal screw down into the hole. The whole thing is easily removed.

These might be overkill, but whatever your device is, if it's subject to being jarred or manipulated, you might want the extra capacity. Another consideration is how firmly the thing ought to be held against the wall, as opposed to swinging freely, like a framed picture. These things can provide a pretty firm grip.

These anchors have points that center them pretty well, so they'd be suitable for installing right through a level pencil line drawn in the wall.

There are a few downsides. They leave a hole in the wall when you remove them (about 1/4" dia.), but the come out cleanly, leaving an easily spackled hole. (The alternative types of drywall anchors leave larger and more ragged holes.) And when the plastic screw hits a stud, it stops and pushes out gypsum out as it enlarges the hole.

I've found that the metal screws supplied are a little bit tight in the anchors, and I've gone to the trouble of buying new, slightly slimmer screws when I've had a lot of these to install. If level installation is critical, then thinner screws might be better, so that they can be backed out and retightened again without loosening the anchor. Different manufacturers might have different specs, so if you're considering packing some of these with your product, you should test the various options before you commit to a supplier.

Lyn, for 2kg. don't you think those are overkill and they leave a huge hole in the wall.

Tony

Tony,

They leave plenty of safety margin.

The hangers you suggest would work fine, too.

This might help. I'm glad I looked; I had never seen the winged plastic anchors. Cheap and easy.

http://www.diylife.com/2010/12/01/best-wall-anchors/

I'm glad you included the link. The screw anchor shown in their comparison illustrates the difference between brands. The "E-Z Ancor" (that's the official spelling) has a three-pointed tip, the center point extended as a pilot, with the side points acting as cutters, like some spade bits for drilling large holes in wood. This arrangement cuts a much cleaner hole than the hole made by the single-point screw anchor shown on the linked DIYlife website, and the cleaner hole, without those chunks of paper around the edges, allows the flat head of the E-Z Ancor to pull in a lot closer to flush. I suspect that getting the head flush also contributes to some compression of the drywall between the anchor's threads and the face of the drywall as the anchor is tightened, and this might alleviate the crumbling of the gypsum that another poster cited as a weakness of non-toggle anchors. I've seen that crumbling around the really cheap plastic push-in split anchors, but not with the screw anchors I've used, which have all been E-Z Ancors. I hate to sound like an ad for one brand, but the I'd find the raggedy installation shown in the DIYlife comparison unacceptable.

They're available in 6-packs for $1.69, by the way.

I have found that any anchor that depends upon the fit and/or friction between the anchor and the drywall can fail prematurely as the drywall crumbles from the repetitive stressing. Depending upon the exact dimensions of your product, you may find that "Strap toggle anchors" are best if your product is subject to pulling or twisting. The toggle spreads the load across a much larger surface including the intact paper facing whereas a sleeve anchor places more of the load on the gypsum.

These types of anchors are awesome but for what you're needing to do they are a lot of overkill for the amount of weight being supported. They are also expensive for what is needed. There are a couple of good things about this style of Toggle Bolt Anchor; one is that they are flexible for the thickness of the wall and also you can take down the item being hung, for painting, etc., and still have the anchor stay in place for reuse.

Toggler has some small expandable anchors called AF-6 that work very well.

They still sell 3/8" and 1/4" drywall at supply stores. 1/4" is allowed for sheet metal stud office space walls that are not for fire protection, or structural. And most homes here in the midwest are still using 3/8" wall.

What happens when the customer hits the wall stud, either sheet metal or 2by wood?

You have to assume total stupid.

'...assuming the worst case of installing on drywall...'

.

Your optimism is commendable.

.

The purported 'supports' that often result from attempts to hang items from old hard plaster walls present a less optimal case than 1/2" dryway.

design in a french cleat design to be mounted between studs.

To expand on TONYMECH's response, I have used the style below many times with zero failures. I like using the 75lb. style, with three nails, the load distribution is good and damage to the wall very minimal. There are also similar styles with keepers so the load is not knocked off the hook accidentally.

hello, that problem you have is easy, i have been in the trade for 45 years and come accross snags like this quite often.if you use a plastic insert , manufactured by unifix in the uk, drill a 1/16" pilot hole, then you screw the nylon insert , cutting a thread into the plasterboard, until it sits flush with the plasterboard, then you simply screw your item into the centre of this nylon plug, i would sugest 4 fixings, strongest cavity fixings i have ever used. if you cant buy them let me know and ill send you them at no charge. good luck ian walton. ianwalton@manx.net

Not enough information on the dimensions of the "product" and what it will be used for. If it is a 42"W shelf that will have books sitting on it, for example, that changes everything.

Read the initial post.

Four pounds divided by at least two fasteners comes out to two pounds per.

In the initial post, we are told that "the product" itself weighs 4 pounds, but he doesn't tell us what the product is other than it will be hung between waist height and eye level. Is it a picture? Is it a mirror? Is it a shelf that will have an additional load? What are its dimensions if it is a shelf that will bear a load?

I trust the OP. If he says 4 pounds, to me, that's the "in service" load.

I could be wrong. But I don't think so, in this case.

actually i gess we all got confused by your question
if you sell a product other than wall mountings
then what is it your business how it's attached somewhere

you can provide a support if you get the know how
otherwise you recomment the service by 3-rd party
_________________________________

it is a good custom that the provider does the installation of it's equippement - as in common it has the best experience in it - but in a special case - you can call for help by others ??? yee yo G ? how stupid can iB

Hello to all,

Sorry if my original question was vague.

There are no other loads. The device is alone with no other attachments or forces applied, aside for some accidental 'bump'. The total device is about 61cm or 24 inches long x about 18cm or 7 inches high. It is relatively flat in profile, so the cantilever forces are negligible. It will be screwed (or otherwise fastened) directly to the wall. It will not be possible to 'hang' it from 'hooks'.

As of this writing, I think I can facilitate three fasteners with two laterally higher on the device, and one centered and lower on the device. The consumer installing the device can settle for the two lateral mounts and likely be safe, or use all three for a more permanent install.

I am still reading all the fantastic input, and I am sure soon I can come to some valid conclusion.

Kind regards ...

For a four-pound load, flat against the wall with no forces applied to it and two or three fasteners, you could get away with nothing but drywall screws into the drywall, if they were driven CAREFULLY. That would be about the bare-minimum, non-idiot-proof approach. If the thing were mounted about head height, that would lessen the odds of an accidental bump. If the device is expensive, then go for some overkill for security. If not, a 3/4", coarse thread #12 or #14 pan head sheet metal screw would be pretty secure just in common, 1/2" drywall, but care has to be taken not to over-torque it. Or check out the Hillman Walldog, a screw made for drywall.

Will it generate any vibration? If so, go for one of the toggle arrangements.

My prefered hollow wall anchor is a product made by Ramset which is utilises an internally threaded expanding metal sleeve which expands on the inside of the wall.

These provide a very secure fitting which the equipment is then screwed to.

I just cant put my hands on the actual load specifications but I have used them for attaching large progector screens, computer equipment etc.

OK Just found the data - they are rated at 10kg each fastner

http://www.ramset.co.nz/pdfs_new/Anchoring/Anchoring%20Product%20Guide%20(Plasterboard%20&%20Cavity).pdf

and product information

http://www.ramset.com.au/Document/Download/1/2/rsc302_2011071810144.pdf/Mechanical-Anchoring-Hollow-Wall-pdf

As they gripp from the back of the wall unlike the screw in style fitings there strength is not dependant on the ability of the person installing them to screw them in straight or to generaly stuff up the installation.

Bernie

Thanks For the information.............!

If the product is close to the wall. ie, protrudes no more than a flat screen then I would use crimp fixings, to fit these you drill a hole about 8mm, you put the fixing in the hole and either using a tool to compress the fixing so the back splays out or if you put a piece of wood with a hole the size of the screw between the screw head and the crimp fixing, then put it into the wall & gently tighten the screw without allowing the crimp to turn until it grabs the wallboard, then remove the screw and fit your product.

If you look up cavity fixings you should find what your looking for. I've fitted thousands of kitchens & used these fixings on all sorts of cavity walls and they rarely fail, the only time I've had one fail is when the wall got wet.

Bazzer

8mm? That's a large hole.

8 times bigger than 1mm and 64 times the area. Sorry I don't normally get this nitpicking, must be the onset of advancing years.

Tony

Yes but that is only the size of the screw housing, If memory is right for a 8mm fixing the screw is m6 but you can get smaller or larger depending on what the weight of the product is.

Bazzer

What ever type of fixing you decide on, (I'd include two 5mm plugs and the screws with a note saying "If installing on stud walling, use the correct drywall fittings, (not supplied)" I'm 100% positive that there will be at least one person who tries to install your gizmo and ends up making a fist sized hole in their wall which, in their mind, will be totally your fault! Maybe a disclaimer in the fitting instructions would be a cunning plan!!

If positioning is the problem, double stick foam tape would work. I have a soap dispenser in my shower that is attached to the tile surface with foam tape. It has been there for 20 years now and never shows any signs of coming loose. I'm sure if attached to drywall, the paint will give before the tape does.