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In
1995 I moved to Johannesburg. Hailing from the Frozen North it was quite an eye
opener, from a climate and life experience point of view.
Not for the Faint Hearted
I
certainly don't regret living there, but it was a frightening place to be.
Burglar bars on doors and windows, armed response at the push of a (panic)
button and not stopping for red traffic lights at night.
I
initially lived in an apartment close to Hillbrow, a notoriously drug-filled
hellish place. In past years
it was a common sight to witness fridges
and washing machines thrown out of windows from a great height... I did say it
was not for the faint hearted.

As
in many cities the privileged and not so privileged live cheek by jowl - many
years later Nelson Mandela died at his Johannesburg home a few streets away
from Hillbrow.
Coca Cola Companion
Near
my apartment was Ponte City - the tallest residential building in Africa at 185
metres high. Every night my constant companion was the flashing of Coca Cola
lights beaming down from the top of Ponte.

Ponte
was built in the 1970s, built as a luxury apartments for white people only.
Over
the decades, as white people decamped to the suburbs, Ponte became overrun by
drug dealers and gangs. It was dubbed "suicide central" because it
was a good place to end life by hurling off the top of Ponte.
Prison or Palace?
By the late 1990s there was talk of turning Ponte into a prison. But in
2001, it began a journey to redemption. The developers promised purpose-built bachelor pads (complete with raised and revolving beds).
However, the dreams were quickly dashed. The
initial fantasies never came to fruition eg an indoor ski slope. It began a descent
into infamy and decay. The building's centre space became a disgusting dumping
ground.
Nasty Trash
On
a recent trip to the Frozen North ie Edinburgh, I visited an exhibition about
Ponte curated by Mikhael Subotzky and Patrick Waterhouse.

I
was particularly fascinated by the photographs the debris found at the bottom
of the cylinder - the tower's trash dump. Dead cats, nappies, photographs and
documents (and plenty of nasty "things" I won't go into).
A New Start
Ponte
has now been renovated and black professionals have moved in. A few white
people have too. North-facing windows offer a stupendous view, including the FNB stadium that
hosted the 2010FIFA World Cup.
It is still one of the most dangerous parts of town. But I am pleased something good seems to be happening there... but I won't be returning to live there - I don't fancy living in a prison again or being bathed in flashing lights every night.
I work at IHS BRE Press, exclusive publisher to BRE. View our publications
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