Crappy Zenith 100A and 200A Transfer Switches?

Which series are you talking about, they make an array of different types, including auto and manual....? It sounds like you have the wrong switch for that application, offhand...

http://apps.geindustrial.com/publibrary/checkout/PB-5066?TNR=Brochures%7CPB-5066%7Cgeneric

They come with Briggs and Stratton generator. $600 for the 100 amps and $876 for the 200 amps. (they looked like brand new)

The electronics are working fine. It is the microprocessor type with 4 soft touch buttons.

It is just the GE electromechanical (the work part) switch that is cripple. (the solenoid does its job, but the mechanical tumble - non adjustable spring controlled - happens only for 70 % of the trials)

Ha HA probably rebuilt with aftermarket parts....

I had a read in the brochure and see that they replaced the GE switch with a different version. Our transfer switches are from 2009,

Loss of time and money.

Ouch......sorry

In my experience with Zenith transfer switches (years past) I found them to be "budget class". The bridge power was intended for ride through. I never saw them used in critical apps. They may have improved since then.

I have found in many cases that the mechanical components are out of alignment and/or the leading edges are not properly relieved to allow easy engagement.

I have also often found that the switch was not PM'd properly and the wrong lubricant/grease was used which dries out and becomes wax or "glue" preventing the components from operating correctly.

In some cases there are bearings that are designed for no lubricant and someone has lubed the internals which attracted a lot of dirt that was preventing proper mechanical operation.

I would thoroughly clean all mechanical components, de-burr all leading edges, align all components, then re-lubricate where required with the OEM recommended fluid(s) or their synthetic equivalent.

If doing this does not correct the issues, I would consider replacing the switch with a new unit or possibly one from a different manufacturer such as ASCO.

Good luck and stay safe!

I assume that you did download and read and understood the Zenith Data sheets for these devices, before ordering the correct one for your application.. To measure the Resistance on an AC coil is like kicking the wheel of a car to decide if you want to buy it. AC coils are Impedance devices and are voltages and frequency dependent. On this device it depend if the coil is the secondary or primary function of the device. The start backup Generator happen if the main supply drop to 90% of the main voltage and synchronizing of the phases take place during this start up time, and the fallout (Break Voltage), normally take place at 80%. The circuitry will determine the function. If the Main supply come back up to 90%, synchronization take place and switch back will take place. These companies spend millions in developing these devices and you measure the resistance of an AC coil to call their devices Crap. Lots of training and education on your way ahead. We run a 1.2 MW factory with 6 x 300 kW Generator stations for backup that run on a alternation basis as the load change that exclusively use these devices. Sorry.

I call it crap, because it is crap.

It is the mechanical switch made by GE that is just not up to the job.

I know the difference between AC and DC coils.

They have put a DC type solenoid and feed it via a 5204 bridge (1000 Volts/15 amps) nothing wrong with that

but label it with 208 Volts/60 Hz, without referring to a rectifier bridge that is 2 wires and 1 foot away.

It is designed to be activated until the cam turns off 2 microswitches (that is milli-seconds) If this fails, the solenoid is producing as much heat as an GE Iron.

There is no primary or secondary function in this end part of the device - the solenoid does the same work for both position changes (whether is has to switch to E grid or G generator)

Congratulations with running your factory.

To gather some experience in your life time you could start with reading my post and the answers from others here.

The coil is 20 Ohms and the drawing current @ 240 Volts 14 amps. (measured this with an AVO- meter of about my age- the 12 lbs model)

This part as said works impeccable, and also the (zenith part, I assume - the) programmer works fine and has been provided with the intelligence to do everything you try to side- track me with)

Why did they not stick with the same switching part in the newer editions? When you check around on the web, you will see that the problems I have are very common.

With the manual wheel, they tumble.

One the coil, it takes over 20% failure.

Why do I have the same problems with 2 identical switches and not with 10 of a different construction. (All the others have 2 coils, but that is not my point.)

The idea might have been good, but the result is a big unreliable transfer switch, that needs permanent intervention.

And if they spend millions to develop it, than it is idiotic. I could have done it for a fraction of it.

Best Regards,

DDSc

Sorry if I offended you. As far as my age you still have to get there 65. Spend my life in the industry. You did not mention the model even after being asked by one of the members. Ours are the 2 coil version and I answered you in that context. Good luck with finding an economical way around this. What is the AC supply to the bridge.

No offense. 65 is a difficult age if I remember correctly?

The AC supply to the bridge is 208 Volts or the line voltage - (In our case 255 Volts since our power supply company is very generous)

Thank you for responding. D