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Anonymous Poster

Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/22/2007 11:34 AM

Hi all,

Have you ever tried to make some adjustments on a lathe machine, in order to get a better precision with aluminum rings of 6" diameter ? Currently, i've been obtaining a total runnout of 0.002" on the external diameter. What should i improve to reach a level of 0.0005" runnout or better? Could you send some hints?

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Anonymous Poster
#1

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/22/2007 12:48 PM

What is the wall thickness?

Are you holding them in jaws? if so, what type if jaws? (hard jaws, soft jaws, pi jaws?)

You could try releasing jaw presssure before the last cut and taking a minimum amount of stock.

What are the feeds and speeds you are running?

What type of insert?

I would suggest c3,c4 carbide, positive rake angle (7-11 deg.)

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#2

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/22/2007 4:03 PM

Start by using soft jaws that you have cut in situ, for the job! after that, need more info!

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Anonymous Poster
#3

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 4:55 AM

If you still have problems with using jaws, turn a mandrel so you locate on the inside dia and pressure drive it off the tailstock.

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#4

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 8:04 AM

All these are good ideas. Let me see if I can sum it up for you so your not just doing a trial and error.

If you have a thin wall, you need to use pie jaws to keep from distorting the part as much as possible.

I know it shouldn't need to be said, but I'll say it, make sure you use the machine to re-cut the jaws every time you set the job up. You cannot trust the chuck to repeat that closely.

That means you cannot expect hard jaws to work.

This is independent of whether your cutting and ID or an OD, you need to follow this 'guidlines'...

good luck and stop back and let us know of your success.

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#5

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 10:04 AM

What is the indicated runout of your chuck or workholding on the spindle?

What is the length / depth of the ring out from the chuck or faceplate?

What is there deflection of the tool post?

milo

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#6

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 10:17 AM

Your question goes much farther than workholding.... there are many other factors to consider.... what kind /brand / style of lathe are you using? how old is it? is it a manual ? cnc ? slant bed ? VTL ? if a manual are you running your tools from a compound slide? what kind of chuck ,what size and how old? is it a manual chuck or hyd? is the runout consistent across the face and length or is it a taper? if so which way?

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#7

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 10:52 AM

I run a lathe nearly every day, cutting rings in the 6" diameter range. I do not need nearly the precision that you are calling out for, however, my experience is that in the range of 6", the variation in diameter will exceed .001" + or -, simply due to the temperature of the ring. Perhaps this accuracy is needed because you are press-fitting parts together? In any case, temperature variation in aluminum causes a considerable amount of dimension change, and must be considered. If the density of the ring varies, then expansion will vary throughout the piece. As with aluminum pistons in an automobile, the diameter is "cam ground". That is, the final dimension at operational temperatures is projected at the thickest mass, and is cut thinner at that point to allow for expansion.I run a tool-post grinder when needing that precision.

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#8

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/23/2007 1:17 PM

I think we need more detail, but .002" is a lot of runout, if you are measuring runout on the lathe, with the material still chucked. If that is the case, then the spindle bearings are probably loose, or there are other mechanical problems with the lathe.

In setting up a lathe, you should always make a test bar, and check it for diameter at multiple points along it's length (and if these are different, the ways are worn or warped -- or the carriage or slides are loose.) If the test bar is straight and cylindrical, etc. then runout on subsequent pieces is likely to be due to chucking problems -- although again, if you are measuring TIR at the lathe, distortion caused by the chucking pressures will not show up until you've removed the piece and re-chucked it, or mounted it between centers to check TIR.

But in any case, if you are getting .002 TIR in the lathe, with the piece still chucked up, that's way too much. .0005" is attainable by any good lathe, with the piece still chucked.

If the rings are thin, and you are checking them off the lathe, then the runout no doubt reflects chucking distortion. It may be necessary to make a mandrel to support the piece so it is not distorted.

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#9
In reply to #8

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/24/2007 7:48 AM

Oh Ken... for the first time I can remember, I have to disagree with you.

Your talking about a lot of different things. If the spindle bearings are bad, then that would effect runout, I'll have to agree.

But now, the test bar and the bad ways would show up in taper, not runout. On an old manual lathe, you would need to have the ways checked and corrected, but with new CNC lathes, you can go into the control and place in 'fudge factors' in the control to adjust for ways that are out of position. (to a point.)

Your comments on the chucking problem... you are right on!

Have a nice day

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#10
In reply to #9

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/24/2007 11:13 AM

Actually, I don't think you're disagreeing with what I thought I was writing. My post rambled a bit.

I jumped from talking about runout to the idea of just generally getting the lathe set up right before looking for the particular runout cause. So the point re the test bar is to make one, and get the lathe spot on first, while looking for runout in the test bar. Then with the lathe able to make a near-perfect test bar, look for problems unique to making the 6" ring (if they remain).

Significant runout is pretty hard to achieve on a lathe, even if you try. My lathe is as poorly maintained as anyone else's, and I typically indicate with a metric indicator, so one space between lines is .01mm (.0004"). Ordinarily, the needle looks likes it's stuck -- I often have to check to see that it not fully extended or something. The width of a line (not the space between lines) is probably equivalent to .00004", and I can usually expect the needle to stay within a line's width.

Of course, if the piece gets removed from the chuck, then all this is thrown out. (But if it's a ring, then getting TIR on it outside of a chuck would be tricky, unless there is a test mandrel to mount it upon.)

There are cases where runout can be significant while the piece is still in the chuck. For example, if the piece is thin enough to be distorted by jaw pressure, TIR will normally be near zero immediately after machining. But as the part cools (still in the chuck) jaw pressure changes as the piece shrinks, and runout appears in the cooled part. If that is the case, and if runout is out-of-tolerance on the cooled piece chucked with light jaw pressure, then using a mandrel, or a six jaw chuck, or even clamping with end pressure against a face plate (instead of using a 3 or 4 jaw chuck) can help.

More rambling: I recently wanted to press fit four automotive ball joints into holes in steel plate. The ball joints were intended for this type of installation, and were actually made in Germany (not just German branded). Imagine my surprise to find no two the same ("diameters" -- which I put in quotes because they weren't round -- varying by 008", and roundness varying by .003") These were a little less than 2" diameter, so .002" can make the difference between a tight sliding fit and a very heavy press fit. To get even remotely close to the right fit, I had to make each hole different -- and even then was not sure the things would fit right (perish the thought I should ever have to replace a ball joint!) I wondered how these pieces could be so different given even the slightest thought to reasonable order of operations. For these to work in subsequent assembly, they'd have to rely on actually shearing off some of the metal of a significantly undersized hole. (Or maybe they made the holes random too (!!!) and selectively fit them -- setting back the idea of interchangeable parts by about a century.)

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#11
In reply to #10

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/24/2007 1:53 PM

I cannot agree more... you do Ramble

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#15
In reply to #11

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/25/2007 3:54 PM

Well put!

I try to operate on the principal that if I simply type anything, and make it long enough, eventually something that makes sense will come out. It's the "Give a monkey a typewriter and enough time, and he'll type the complete works of Shakespeare" principal.

As Mark Twain wrote, "Sorry this letter is so long. If I had more time, I could have made it short."

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#12

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/25/2007 4:05 AM

Bore. Turn OD. Part to length. Bore. Turn OD. Part to length.Bore. Turn OD. Part to length. Bore. Turn OD. Part to length.Bore. Turn OD. Part to length. Bore. Turn OD. Part to length.

Or if you like.

Turn OD. Bore. Part to length. Turn OD. Bore. Part to length. Turn OD. Bore. Part to length. Turn OD. Bore. Part to length.

High speed tool steel will work just fine if it's all you got.

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#13
In reply to #12

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/25/2007 7:21 AM

I'm with you on that to a degree! But if you start with a blank of oversized Ally then things like work holding are fundamental! Most important, Repeatability. If the machine cannot keep within a said tolerance to start with then maybe you need to check the machine itself. If normally this machine can hold tighter tolerances, then it is most likely a work holding problem! Narrow down your options, use SPC, make a couple of histograms and SD curves of other parts made by the machine to give you an idea of the health of your machine!

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#14
In reply to #13

Re: Lathe Adjustments for Better Runout

08/25/2007 12:59 PM

Yes. Potential causes of discrepant or undesirable results need be eliminated from front to back (metaphoric front to back). The fact is that this is an exceedingly simple operation that should pose little frustration.

We used to make titanium rings @ 3/16 ht x 085" th x 8' OD with opposing angles to a theoretical point. after much customer dialouge it was agreed that we would first article parts on machine prior to final op (parting to length) as the deformation was excessive once removed. There are numerous other examples as this is a normal issue on thin-wall parts.

If indicator shows acceptable run out at chuck then there is a chance of a similar situation for his parts.

But again yes I agree, and much good advice has been offered.

CR3

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