Electrolux Oven Error Code

I'm not sure, but the F9 heat error code on our LG is causing the oven to only heat up when it feels like it or after several restarts.. and the Fonz fix ain't cuttin' it anymore..

I'll be following this thread closely..

LOL -- Fonz fix.

Remember when TV was fun?

Works best on a jukebox, but many other appliances can also be rehabilitated.

Fun TV? It's hard to remember.

If Happy Days were remade by Netflix it would be a completely different show. A lot less cheeky and more cheeks.

Found this JE

Wow.. That was like watching a camera in a tornado!?!

Thanks.

I'm not sure the guy has a great understanding of what he did, but it seemed to work out in the end.

He did give me an idea on what to look for even though his stove was a different model.

I've been completely underwhelmed by this stove, as well as the dishwasher and TV from the same maker.

The knobs which appear to be machined stainless steel are plastic covered in some type of metallic sticker that peels off and gives real metal splinters!

The top will lift for cleaning assuming you can remove the 15 screws under the burners. (they corrode and sheer off easily enough)

The giant middle burner oval couldn't remove the frost from an ice cube.

..and most of that burner won't light without coaxing the flame by hand.

The timer and alarms all play funny music. .. just what I want. a cheery song to go with my error code.

The convection feature is weak at best.

The twist on glass cover over the light needed an oil filter wrench to get it off.

Did I mention it heats when it feels like it?

I know We've given it a lot of use, but my parents Sears Kenmore stove from the early 70's still works fine!!!

..there's a way to st the timer for longer than 99 minutes, but it escapes me..

That's not a valid model number...

https://www.electroluxappliances.com/Owner-Support/Product-Support/

My guess is that something is producing chatter in this relay, needs a smoother....maybe a 10 sec delay...maybe a higher temp resistor design...

Checked these site already..my stove is entirely different circuit boards.It is an illegitimate offspring of Lowes;No longer in production,but I cannot find service data for it anywhere.

It is not induction,but it is glass top with membrane touch buttons for everything.

The control board is about 12 inches long,loaded with Boo Coo surface mount chips,and the input/output data cables go to numerous other cards.

This board also contains the display modules for clock,timer,and controls,and is located behind the small top cover of the stove.

This must have been spec'ed by Lowes to be non repairable.Can't find the board.

A lot of their stuff is like that,IMHO.

Does it look like this? Can you find the board part #

https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/846209/?page=4

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a13b10c13i846/New/Electrolux-Range-Stove-Oven-Circuit-Board-Timer-Relay-Board-Parts

Does not look like that.Controls are on a vertical back panel.

Part number on board is SM 316676601.

Some numbers are close,but don't look even close to same board.

My wife really likes the stove,but I may have to chunk it and buy another one...but not from Lowes,and not Electrolux.It is going to be hard to find one not made by Electrolux,they make ovens under so many different names.

They used to make stoves that would last 50 years,all analog,gorilla engineered.

The days of high durability and quality are long gone.The landfills are filling up with planned obsolescence.

These guys do offer a repair service for your board $150, cheaper than a new range...

https://www.partsimple.com/frigidaire-316207620-range-stove-oven-control-board.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjer4BRCZARIsABK4QeU0blAidByc55tiP9pst-xLDZm26alU70TRH7JUeatLBvMo32GT6bYaAncVEALw_wcB

Wow finally found one...I think

There's a bunch of them for sale nearly half off at $1.5k...

Thanks,Se.

I have corresponded with them about repair of my board but it will be at least

the Monday before I hear back.

The board they have listed is for a Frigidaire,and I went to their list of ranges,they don't even list Electrolux.

I hope their test fixtures can accommodate this board.

If I could get the detailed schematic I would attempt a repair myself,but they will not release any information for fear of legal ramifications.

Usually such failures are due to a single component failure,so parts for repair are cheap.The problem is without a schematic,or visible signs of failure repair is out of my reach.

Thanks again for the link,it at least it puts me in touch with a possible repair center.

Yes but it generally leads to a cascading effect, I would replace the temperature sensor, the resistor and the relay....

That is true,especially if a surge has occurred.I always check related components and replace if in doubt.

I have been doing electronic/electrical repairs for around 60+ years and have seen a lot of weird things happen.

The multi-layer and surface mount are the hardest to repair.

The conformal coatings are 3 different coatings.The first coating,next to the board,is a de ionizing layer,that will make any moisture non conductive.

The 2nd layer is a water proof layer and anything that gets past it will be de-ionized by the first layer.

The final layer is also water and chemical repellent,and is the first line of defense against moisture.

Repairs have to be immaculately cleaned and re coated properly.

As for surface mount,I did some repairs years ago,on of all things, a watch.

THAT was a real challenge.I had to convince the factory that I really wanted the chip but I persisted and they sent it to me.

Had to use a magnifying glass,had to make my own soldering tips,had to stop coffee for about a week,and go through caffeine withdrawal,but my hands finally settled down enough to be able to solder without bridging the gaps.

I don't know if I could do it now,probably not,too shaky,but I would sure try it on this stove board,the components are much larger than a watch.

If I knew the resistance slope of the temperature probe,I put a decade box* as substitute for the temp probe and see if the problem occurred on or off board.

The temp probe could be failing at high temp intermittently.I could remove it and apply external heat,but am afraid of ruining the probe with excess heat

But I am not privy to their proprietary information.

*Ohm Ranger by Ohmite,(with a personal modification to it by adding a trimming pot).

Yeah I used to rely on my brother when it came to electronic repairs as he ran a manufacturing of electronic components business, he had access to the machines and enough expertise to handle these small components....He could just remake the entire board if need be....but anything too small I just walk away now...

I have bought refurbished boards before, sometimes you have to go through a few, but if it's a last resort, then it's the only way... I've never run into a problem where I couldn't find a replacement board...this stove you have is a rare bird to be sure...

My appliances are all analog control except for the microwave oven I bought new about a year ago, the board failed on it already and I have a replacement to install whenever I get around to it, oh the microwave still works it's just the display went dark....since I don't use any of the fancy controls, it doesn't really matter...

I bought a new Whirlpool stove a few years back. It had the easy to set clock and so forth. That was great for a while, but then one of my sons overflowed a pot which causes the contacts to fail. I fixed it once or twice then it became troublesome. The easy to set clock failed too and more. There was a garage sale with an older Whirlpool in prime condition for $25. I bought that and took my newer one to the dump. That was the best decision I have made. The stove is still going strong after many years.

Maybe this guy can help...

tel:18002692609

https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/702315?tab=diagrams#

This may or may not be something useful:

http://manuals.electroluxappliances.com/prodinfo_pdf/Memphis/807436903.pdf

This is probably not even remotely associated with your oven and problem....but:

Our Jennair would throw the odd keypad error - then progressed to temp control error. (grrr). Kitchen manager complained about too hot / too cold.

Being threatened that I was going to be living on rabbit food it was time to investigate.

It would either not heat up, or over shoot by about 200+F. - It was really hot. it smelled hot - IR gun should 550 to 600F but the display showed 300 or 325F.

Quick - trip the breaker before things catch fire.

I took it all apart - temp probe at back of stove measured OK.

BUT I noticed the various ribbon cables and connectors were looking damp / oily / grungy. Cleaned up all the connections and put it back together - It has now been 2 months without an error.

It appears that a boil over runs down through some sheet metal and lans on a whole bunch of electronics leaving deposits of sugar, oil, salts, and hopefully only other food residues. I think they were electrically conductive and gave the temp measurement absolute fits.

Perhaps you will get lucky also.

The top of the unit is totally sealed,and will handle up to a quart of overflow.

All of the boards looked pristine,so contamination s not the problem.

Good idea though!Wish that was the problem,it would be a simple fix.

I remember receiving a PH meter that had a coating of nicotine so thick that it was causing an error.

The guy was a heavy smoker,and when I cleaned the board,the rinse was orange/brown with nicotine.

It required 3 cans of 3M contact cleaner to do the job (Can't get that good stuff anymore).

After cleaning it worked perfectly.

Anyway,thanks for the suggestion.

FWIW! Only vaguely related: We have an Electrolux cooktop with two radiant elements and two induction elements. In 10 years, we've had to replace/repair the driver board for the induction elements 5 times. The error code (95) supposedly indicates low line voltage, but that voltage measured right at 240VAC, so it had to be something else.

The first two repair times were under warranty and extended warranty. That second extended warranty repair took three different service people to get it going again. The first guy brought the wrong part. The second guy brought the right part, but didn't install it correctly. The third guy brought the same part, and installed it correctly. I had helped him with the repair, so he knew I was technically capable; he let me keep the board the second guy had installed incorrectly, as a spare. When the board in the unit failed again, the extended warranty had expired, but I installed that spare, and it worked.

Then I did some measurements on the failed board, and found two shorted IGBTs, a shorted diode bridge, and a blown fuse. I replaced those, and put that one away as a spare, without actually testing beyond finding the shorts no longer there. A couple of months ago the unit failed again, and I was able to verify that the repair was indeed successful. I've now replaced tha same components on the other failed board, and have it stored for the next replacement.

As you indicated, they just aren't built to last like they used to be!

Now that's obstinance..!

I prefer the term "persistence", but thanks!

"I miss the old days - switch with low / medium / hi for the burners and a thermobulb operated oven - lasted decades and in a pinch you could repair."

True, but I love induction cooking, and induction cooking requires a relatively high power oscillator in the 15-60 kHz range, with some form of power output control (PWM, frequency, or...) I don't know of a way to produce those oscillations without a PCB.

The specs of the transistors sound high enough (56Amps, 700Volts); I suspect that it is some switching transients that kill the transistors, causing them to fail to a short. When the transistors short they kill the diode bridge (25Amps, 800Volts) before the 20Amp fuse can blow to protect them.

You may want to put MOV's on the input voltage.

Use all 3 modes of protection for best results.L1-L2;/L1-N,/L2-N,and N/Ground.

DigiKey carries the MOV's.

...or at least a faster fuse...haha

The fastest fuses cannot react as fast as an MOV or TVS.

However,putting a fuse in series with the MOV can prevent catastrophic destruction of the MOV.

A neon lamp,with appropriate resistor,across the fuse, can be used as an indicator of a blown fuse/bad MOV.

TVS are silicon based,and are generally used on lower voltage circuits.They are even faster than an MOV,on the order of 1 to 10ps vs 1 to 10 ns for MOV's.

Here is a link for more info:https://www.ecmweb.com/power-quality-magazine-archive/article/20884804/mov-or-sasd-which-surge-suppressor-is-right-for-you

That's 4 modes.

Unfortunately, the input voltage is the 240V split phase on a dedicated circuit directly from the Main Circuit breaker panel.

I strongly suspect that the surges are being created by the inductance of the induction coils upon switching off, so I doubt if MOVs on the input voltage would provide any protection.

SE's suggestion of a faster fuseis certainly worth consideration, but I think all that would do would be to protect the diode bridge upon shorting of the transistors. It could be that one transistor shorts first, which then blows the bridge, which in turn blows the other transistor. If so, a very fast fuse could conceivably save the second transistor. On the other hand, when one of a transistor pair fails, I always replace both, just on general principles...

You can always add more fuses....actually it might help to illuminate the problem...what could you add to quell the surge, if that is indeed the problem?

I suppose I could add some additional fuses, but that would involve cutting some traces on the PCB, then finding a way to safely locate fuse holders, and then deciding what kind and current value.

I thought about the possibility of adding some capacitors to the induction coils, but I have no idea how they might affect the frequencies/waveshapes of the induction fields, so I decided not to try. The induction frequency currently varies from something around 15kHz to somewhere around 50 or 60kHz, depending on the heat setting. I't's nowhere near a sine wave at any of those frequencies.

The transistors and the diode bridge were originally held to the single heat sink by spring clips. I was unable to remove those clips without destroying the spring action, so I drilled and tapped holes in the heat sink to attach an aluminum bar plus a couple of copper-alloy shims, and of course added new heat-sink compound. Now that I've done that for both PCBs, it's not a big deal to replace the blown devices.

On the other hand, this cooktop has two induction elements and two radiant elements. After using both for a few years, my wife has come to agree with me that it would be better to have all four induction elements, so I probably won't ever repair another driver board for this cooktop, but buy a new one. In fact, we currently have a portable induction cooker sitting on top of the two radiant elements, so we have three induction elements and no radiant ones, unless ew move the portable.

I threw in the N-G for free..kinda like belt and suspenders.