Rebar Placement for EV Charger Lightpole

How much weight is to be mounted at the top of the pole?Will the weight be off center?

Unless you live in tornado alley,I don't think wind is going to be the major load on the pipe.

Rigid conduit and galvanized pipe are not the same thing.Conduit is made to be bent,and is softer,with thinner galvanized coating.

The main stress component would be the bollards.

The luminaire weighs 3.75 lbs. it’s cantilevered off of a 12” pipe nipple, coupled to the “mast” via a pipe elbow (see sketch).

Yes, I’m aware of the difference between pipe and conduit, that’s why we’re using pipe (cheaper and possibly stronger). I listed both to tamp down comments about running wires through pipe.

I didn’t mention them, so unsure about the relevance of your bollards comment.

Don’t know why aluminum would have any great advantage, but costs are a consideration, hence the galvanized pipe. Same for the “extended pad,” plus a slight slope makes a further extension problematic.

There will be bollards (separately supported and in front) they’re just not shown, and not relevant to my questions.

BTW - You may not recall, but your initial advice on this project lead me to check out ChargePoint and it's been a fairly straightforward project since then - thanks.

Not knowing your location, you need to consider the clear cover of the rebar as well. If I recall, most jurisdictions call for a minimum of 3" especially in colder climates where deicing salt may be used. And also consider a second "row" of rebar near the bottom of the galvanized pipe.

Looks good to me: the foam tape is probably a good idea.

Just a thought: think about adding access to the bottom of the light pole and include a cord when it's installed, so that you can pull an electrical cable through when it's ready for the light.

Your comments came closest to addressing my questions. BTW, there will be 1/2” conduit (carrying 14-AWG THHN wires) ported into the bottom of the 1-1/4” pipe, I just didn’t show it for clarity. I have found that the more detail I provide in a post, the more irrelevant or tangential responses I get.

And, if I may ask: Are you answering as a layman, or do you have some Civil Engineering background/training?

A conduit elbow,rated for concrete embedding is required at the bottom, with pipe dope on threads and a conduit Ell is required at the top.A plumbing elbow is not to be used for wiring.Rigid Conduit must also be used for wiring.I thought you were going to run the wiring conduit external to the lamp post.Rain tight fittings must also be used.There must also be a minimum of 1/5" of concrete over the conduit in all directions.

I recommend a floor flange for the conduit,instead of embedding.Repair is much easier if it is damaged with a flange.Same recommendation for the light pole.

(And it will be damaged eventually)

Are you licensed and qualified to do this work?

Refer to the NEC for guidance if you are in the USA in most states,but always remember the AHJ has the final word.(Authority Having Jurisdiction.)

"And it will be damaged eventually" should be given considerable thought.

Also, I wouldn't plan on welding galvanized unless you really know what you are doing. Well, if you really know what you are doing I don't think you would plan on welding galvanized. I once thought that if I was outdoors and stayed upwind I could ignore the "don't do it" advise and weld galvanized. Holly smoke. No, really, holly smoke. The black smoke was so thick I couldn't see my arc. I also couldn't keep the arc going.

Using a floor flange to allow repairs is a good idea. If you do put galvanized in concrete and want to add something to it I suggest galvanized U-bolts (muffler clamps).

"I wouldn't plan on welding galvanized" Good Point

https://weldingtroop.com/why-is-welding-galvanized-steel-dangerous/

You can weld galvanized materials and avoid Metal fume fever" but you must ensure that you do not inhale the weld fumes or wear an appropriate mask. You will need to regalvanize the welded area to slow down corrosion. There are "cold" galvanizing products on the market to do this.

I tend to suspect that there is a lot more going on than just staying upwind and don't inhale. I couldn't keep an arc due to the thick black smoke. Also, the smoke made the metal very dirty. I agree, somehow it can be done. I also don't think I will ever try again or try to get it done.

Total layman.

And in view of several other comments I now withdraw my support for the tape, and, the welding of galvanised steel.

The design looks good to me. I wouldn't use the flex tape. That would just let water in.

The surrounding soil will fail before the flagpole breaks the concrete.

It is now clear that you are not a qualified electrician or contractor,and I withdraw all of my suggestions.

Perhaps you are the neighborhood handy man.

Since this is a HOA,surely they can afford to have it done right by a qualified contractor,and avoid potential legal problems later on in the event that something goes wrong.

And I am sure you know Murphy's law.And you know insurance companies' ability to find any way out of paying a claim.

Disregard my previous suggestions.

Do not attempt to use an Ad Hoc design for this project.

Do it right,do it once.

The rebar would certainly add strength to the pole, but I would much rather see the pole closer to the middle of the block and preferably in the middle. I'm not familiar with the codes for this, but I would think 6" would be the minimum. If you do weld it, grind off the zinc coating first. I would not use the foam tape, as concrete will bond to the metal pipe. However, moisture will penetrate the concrete, so eventually the pipe will rust away. An oil spray will help in that regard.

Instead of burying the pole,use a metal foundation plate with anchors into the concrete.Then weld a bottom plate onto the pole and attach it to the bottom plate,observing all safe welding procedures regarding zinc coating or put a coupling on the bottom of the conduit to thread the post into.

If the pole gets hit,it will give at the anchor points,but will allow easy servicing or replacement if and when damage occurs.

This has long since been resolved (using Bega manufactured light-poles), but thanks, anyway . . .

BTW - light-poles are behind the charging stations, which will be protected by 3-inch pipe bollards.