Timing Belt Replacement

Water pump, thermostat, valve cover gasket check belts/hoses etc.

Getting the timing marks aligned properly.

"Time again" to relace the timing belt???

Hi Arne, as common practice when you buy the car it should supplied with operation and service manual, the corresponding mileage or running hours indicated what particular parts need to be replaced or for adjustment as per book, however if you don't have this manual I believed this should be available on line, to bring it down to mitsubishi service station is quite expensive but they do proper service in accordance with manufacturing service standard. seems to be you're from Philippines? i'm from there as well currently working abroad. kind regards

Hello arne;

You could check the camshaft end play. I'm not familiar with this engine but I normally check everything inside of a cover when I need to remove it.

Get a service manual & follow instructions. I will not buy a post 1985 car- prior to 1986 all car motors had durable roller chain cam drive- my 1978 Isuzu has done 704,000 kms- still perfect- and OH!- those plastic tank radiators fitted to 1986 on cars!- I have seen many wrecked engines due to plastic tank splitting without warning while driving. the 1st thing I fit to all my cars is a self made low coolant alarm- this has saved many a motor.

While your vehicle is in a state of undress get a compression test if it is very poor it would probably be a good idea to remove the head for inspection and overhaul. Also replace front crankshaft seal as it would be accessible when replacing the timing belt.

All of the above comments are good things to do.

I would replace all idler pullies, tentioners and any thing else that runs off the timing belt.

If never owned a Mitsubishi, but with many cars the timing belt must be removed to replace the water pump. So this might be a good time for a new WP.

The important part is getting the timing marks to line up. With many FWD cars there isn't much room to work in so for the 1st time will take patience. I've marked my old belts with finger nail polish before removing them and marked the new belt in the corresponding areas to simplify installation. But the priority is making sure the timing marks line up. Get the marks lined up before taking the old belt off!

If you don't want to pay for the factory manual, a Haynes manual should have pictures of the timing mark locations. Run a Google search for a Mitsubishi specific forum too, odd are someone else probably has posted a walk thorough.

Most of the answers have been very good. I would like to offer these suggestions though.

• After you think you have all of the timing marks lined up correctly, rotate the engine another two complete revolutions, and make sure the marks are still correct.
• Inspect the seals on the front of the crank shaft, and the camshaft. If they are allowing oil to pass, it will shorten the life of all future timing belts.
• A compression test , if done with a retarded camshaft, (due to a loose timing belt) will yield lower compression. Don't jump to do a valve job just because the compression may be a little low. If there is noticeable slack in the timing belt, accept lower compression numbers, as long as they remain even.

Good luck.

Hie

Most Mitsubishi models come with balancing shafts which are also belt driven and its best to change them at this time, they will fail eventually. I strongly recommend you to fit all new seals for the shafts that drive the belts and inspect for wear on the shafts, especially the area in contact with the seals.

Vavrom