V8 Engine for 1975 Chevy Step-Van P20

Are you going to do the work yourself?

The details will kill you! Does this fit? how do I get in there to hook it up?

If so, look at this, "simple" problem:

03/29/2009 7:20 PM 2000 Chevy Cavalier Won't StarThe

well the answer is YES. But there is a lot of work to make it work. The transmission will fit, and work. You failed th mention what type of transmission you have though. You will need a flywheel from the engine you use. The trucks will accept any v8 engine Chevrolet sold. You will need the frame adaptors that belong to a v8 P series. the frame adaptors may be correct, but I don't know. Check under the hood of a current Workhorse step van. (Same truck)

The radiator should work, unless you get really big on the engine. If you do, there are bigger radiators available from replacement radiator suppliers.

The exhaust system will need to be new, but there are plenty of exhaust shops that will just bend pipe to fit at reasonable prices.

The throttle linkage will be tougher. The easy way will be current design throttle cable style. At least the parts should still be available. Or contact Lokar products. They will custom make the cable you need.

The starter will wire the same as your old one. The alternator and temperature and oil pressure sensors can be switched from the 292.

These trucks were sold from the factory with 4-71s, or 4-53 Detroit Diesel engines years ago. They were also sold with the later 6.5 L diesel engines. A lot more work for the diesel conversion because of the fuel changes.

Look up the Workhorse vans, they are being sold that way today.

Let me know what you want to do. I have a neighbor with a 350 P10. Good luck.

Your best bet would be to find a similar vehicle with the V8 engine installation and get all the pieces you need.

Key words: similar vehicle. While many cars and trucks are equipped with the Chevy V8 engines for many years, small bits and pieces (mounts, linkages, bracketry, flywheels, manifolds, belt pulleys, etc.,) can differ. Making up stuff to get the install to work can nickle and dime someone to death.

The main thing, just make sure a job of this magnitude on such an old vehicle is economically worthwhile.

I have a big problem in my 1975 Chevy step van P20 with engine 292 4.8 liter.

When I drive, the manifold and the front pipe gets so hot that it turns red. This happens only when I drive and the gauge temperature stays normal. I drove without donut, which means without front pipe and muffler, just to be sure I had no problem with the muffler. So I still had the same problem and the manifold was still red. I changed the carburetor, I checked the timing, and I still have the same problem. Now can you help me with what to do next?

What are you using for fuel?

Is the manifold burning through?

My experience with 292 is a very reliable strong truck engine, you'll need a big V-8 to equal the power 115HP & 215 ft-lbf torque.

Try replace with another truck engine like a 366 V-8 or a 350 Cid 4-bolt main the 383 is popular.

If your exhaust manifold is that red hot, your timing is way too late.

Your harmonic dampener / balancer may have shifted, or perhaps your centrifugal advance is frozen, but your timing is way too retarded.

There is a way for you to check. Clean the timing mark area and the harmonic dampener / balancer. Remove the first spark plug.Get a wooden dowel that will fit in the spark plug hole. 3/8, or 1/2" should work. Insert the wood into the spark plug hole till it bottoms on the top of the piston. Turn the engine with the fan blade till the engine pushes the dowel up. At some point the dowel will be wedged stopping the piston from going any further. Mark this location on the dampener at the point it is aligned with the timing mark 0. Now turn the engine in the opposite direction, until it again will not rotate any further. Mark this location on the dampener again at the 0 mark of the timing tab.

Mow measure EXACTLY half way between these marks. That one half way mark is exactly top dead center for piston #1.

If you are having trouble rotating the engine by hand, remove the remainder of the spark plugs. This will make it easier to turn.

Mark your new TDC mark on the dampener with some white paint, chalk, or white out. Reinstall the plugs and try the timing light again. This engine will give good performance and mileage with 10 to 12 degrees initial advance if you are not going to have to meet emission tests. If you have to meet emission tests, I think 6*BTDC was the setting.

To test the centrifugal advance mechanism on the distributer, you can do this. Remove the distributer cap. With your hand you should be able to turn the distributer rotor about 15*. The rotor should spring back to the starting place when you remove your hand. If it will not spring back or will not move the centrifugal advance mechanism is not working. Remove the distributer rotor and try working a good penetrating oil into the springs and weights there. Work at it and they will usually start to spring back to working condition again.

Try these steps and let me know what you find. Good luck.

Be VEEERY careful not to snap off the wooden dowel. Aluminum rod might be a safer choice. Stuff happens. Even with our engines, that have the spark plug centered over the top of the piston, we almost snapped off a pencil when it slipped a little. Don't use a steel rod as damage to the threads could occur.

A 4" dial indicator with extension is preferred instrument, unless in the bush or lumber yard

It probably has a vacume leak in the intake runner to that cylinder.

Your problem sounds like a vacume leak on that cylinder or intake runner, 292's have a vacume port on the front intake runner, check it.- reply to your post further down the thread. I have done the swap your talking about. The pass side motor/frame mount will have to be moved because the motor mounts are different for a 292( they are staggered), All other Chevy gas engines have parrell mounts. its no problem because the frame will have the correct holes in it to move the pass side. The 292 fly wheel has the same bolt pattern as the 350 engine except it has a couple of extra dowel holes in it. I swaped my 292/SM465 to a 350/TH400 set up. I had to get my driveshaft shortened and move the trans cross member back, again extra holes in frame to accomadate different motor/trans combos used in the P-series chassis. It is a bolt in swap. You will of course to swap out the exhaust. Mine is a P-10 102 inch wheelbase.

I have a neighbor with a V8 P10. Do you live in North Lauderdale?

No, Titusville. North of you about 1.5 hours.