Subwoofer Power

You may need to add a second battery to power the amp.

Or, you could install some supercaps to take the "hit".

Try this link...

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitor_installation/car_audio_capacitor_installation.htm

HTH..

A cap is not going to increase the punch from this sub. A cap will only tighten up the bass when the amp is suffering from a sagging power supply.

A second battery is not going to help this sub. My guess is it is rated at about 300W Rms. So, 25 amps is not going to pull down a car battery. And, don't waste your money on caps unless you need them.

I agree with the cat!

Nothing infuriates me more than some jerk/idiot/looser who pulls up beside me with his bass drowning out my radio.

It's an incredible invasion of my space.

Use larger wiring, as short as possible.

I see two problems with this device. 1. There appears to be inefficient amount of free-air volume in this size (SMALL) enclosure for a 12" sub to develop a punch from the lows. Because the the free-air volume is so low, the enclosure is more than likely tuned to to a relatively high frequency, i.e., 50hz or above. 2. An un-ported enclosure will develop a tight bass but the low-end punch suffers because the cone is not allowed to deflect as much as an enclosure with a tuned port. My advice for you is to return /sell it and purchase a ported, amplified enclosure. Bazooka makes a 12" amplified device that is considered a "Bass Cannon". I was quite satisfied with an 8" amplified device and the speaker lasted 10 years before it needed replacement. hope this helps

Sorry - Bazooka makes an amplified sub only as large as 10" but trust me, this should be more than adequate. If you are inclined and you have your heart set on a 12" sub, checkout Crutchfield.com. I have an 8" Polk dB Series in a Ground Shaker, ported enclosure (groundshaker.com) powered by an Orion sub amp (crutchfield.com) and it didn't set me back any more than the 250 clams that you probably spent on that "Boss". I had to decrease the size of the tuned port because it was rattling my teeth as it was. Good luck in your endeavor.

there is no way you need a secondary battery and power caps aren't gonna help your problem anything noticeable. it looks like when they jammed everything into a simple plug-n-play unit they seriously compromised on the quality of the box for the sub. I would say sell the unit and buy a sub that is separate from the amp so you can use a proper enclosure that isn't choking the sub.

What you need is to understand what low frequency response (curve) will give you the required performance. Then measure your current setup's LF response with all equalisation settings flat (this would be an acoustic measurement). You can then add whatever equalisation is needed to give you the required response (using either built-in equalisation or an add-on component such as a parametric equaliser). Hopefully the current setup will have the required headroom (i.e., amplifier power and excursion) to accommodate the necessary equalisation boost/cut. The alternative is to swap out your current LF system for one that has a tuning characteristic that compliments your motor vehicle acoustics to give you the desired response.

Dear All,

First of all thanks for providing the comments, As suggested some of u i bought the car subwoofer pioneer 12" 1200watts MAX RMS 400 installed in slead box as recomended by pioneer & powered to pioneer GM- amps 5400-t 760Watts Max with 2 channel, I bridged the 2 channel it became 360 RMS . Unfortunately still the same it is not hitting as it hard. do i need to install the cap if yes then what type of caps i need to connect please advise.

you need a ported enclosure to get the kick that you want.

This amp - is it a sub-amp?