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MOLD MAKING

06/07/2009 4:49 AM

What material can one use to make ingots, to cast 1 ounce silver ingots.

Can one use a flexable material to mould around an original?

Thanks for any help. Barry

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#1

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/07/2009 4:28 PM

Some questions raise more questions than answers. For investment purposes, it doesn't make sense to cast your own ingots.

The spot price for silver right now is about $15 per troy oz.

A graphite mold for casting plain ingots costs about $20 on eBay.

An ingot that isn't assayed and marked for weight and purity is not going to have a market value equal to the spot price per ozt, if it is saleable at all. An assay might cost around $100 (quoting from that last link).. not practical for a $15 ingot.

If you're melting scrap silver, you have no way of knowing the purity without a proper assay. If any of the silver is scavenged from electronics recycling, there's a risk of contamination with toxic metals like cadmium. Yes, there's home melting tech (at your risk), but there's no "home refinery" and assay setup that would be practical: it's costly and hazardous: leave it to the pros.

Not too many buyers are going to fall for the "sound of it" assay. If you are recycling scrap, your only square option is to make a deal with a refinery. In most cases you'll want to have significant amounts of (as pure as you can get) metal to make their fees worthwhile. They can refine and cast your ingots and mark them properly. Investor's ingots have a collectors value (the "premium") in addition to the value of the metal. If you were using all recycled silver, you could have this marked specially, to add that "premium" value to your product. Do your costing carefully and you might make it worthwhile. Figure out how long it takes to collect an ozt of scrap worth $15 or less: what will you be paid for your labor, after refiner's fees?

Using a "flexable material to mould around an original" if intended to duplicate the manufacturers marks would be a fraud and would get you serious jail time. You would certainly be caught out: it's doubtful you could come up with a home casting process that would be indistinguishable from the professionally cast and marked ingots which are collected and traded. Also, these ingots generally have serial numbers. Again, casting your own purity marks without a proper assay would be punishable as a fraud.

If you're expecting a social collapse, and all you really want is the sense of real currency, and you're stuck on the homemade ingot idea, you could use the plain graphite mold that holds 1 ozt of silver, melt up your scrap, then stamp the fresh soft ingot with "1 troy oz silver" "of unknown purity" and "coin of the realm" (maybe they should have "unknown purity" on the x#$% paper money as well!! )

BTW precast marked ingots with the lowest "premium" are cheaper to buy than casting grain -- but the minimum order is 50 ozt.

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 3:59 AM

Thanks for the reply, it was so informative and with the added warnings! Bit of a Shock That. Over 2 kilos of old and smashed up scrap silver from the past 60 years. It seemed a good idea to make some 1 oz. silver ingots for chains, Oh well back to the drawing board. The reply was super Thanks.

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#3
In reply to #2

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 7:53 AM

You're welcome.

If you're planning to sell it as jewelry, the physical cautions are the same re: electronic waste in particular. But if there's no electronic waste and you're certain that the stuff is silver (coin or better - that's over 90%) you could do ingot jewelry with your own marks and make a profit.

The cost cautions are not so extreme, because as soon as you put it on a chain it has added value. It's sold as a decorative item, rather than an investment. Sterling silver chain heavy enough for ingots will probably cost you > $5 apiece wholesale, but I would expect that any "ingot pendant on a chain" would easily sell for $40 or $50 on the market even if it is not marked for purity. (Some jurisdictions may require a purity mark on jewelry (?check it out?), but as long as you don't make false claims, I doubt there would be enforcement at the scale we're talking about).

If you stamped a home made ingot "100% recycled scrap silver" "2009" "Made in USA - or wherever you are from" and a serial number indicating the limited edition, they would take on the sort of historical and sentimental value that inspires people to collect. The information is more valuable than the metal itself, because it tells the tale of our times.

If you have over 2 kilos, though, you can get it melted and assayed for maybe around $130 - check around to refineries in your area - some have specials from time to time. 60 ozt or so at $16 per ozt is close to $1000 worth of metal: not bad for the refinery cost alone.

Best of luck.

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#4

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 8:40 AM

Thanks Friend, that has explained it all now, and some way to what I wanted to do, keeping it legal etc. I wanted to use a 1 oz. ingot as the mold, without the markings, just for size etc. but getting some thing flexible and for a high heat mixture.

Barry

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#5
In reply to #4

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 9:20 AM

Go to a Jewelry supply place, and get some Investment. Its a plaster like material that is used for casting. A word of warning -- Make sure (By heating) the investment is dry before poring the metal..If it isn't, the silver will explode (or appear to) because ANY Moisture instantly turns into steam. When doing lost wax casting, the molds are at least 800 deg. Fahrenheit.

Ware a full face shield and non-synthetic clothes (natural fiber) because the synthetics can melt a stick to you, which is not a good thing.

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#7
In reply to #5

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 1:33 PM

Lost wax casting is not a simple process: the setup to mix the investment properly (without bubbles) and centrifugal casting machine is quite expensive. The object has to be designed with a sprue which allows it to be removed from the mold. Some problems with sprued bars are described - see re-casting hazard if water gets in the casting when quenched. Rubber molds are commonly made, to make duplicates of the wax models used in casting. Wax burnout requires a kiln, produces noxious fumes.. Etc. Expensive setup and multi-stage process (labor intensive). Read about various methods of jewelry casting.

Gravity poured casting is the simple way to go. Graphite is a nice material for a mold - check out the ingot mold design used in this video. Your markings could be tooled on one piece of a two sided mold , hold together with binding wire.

Other mold materials are less durable. Pressed charcoal block can be carved to make simple castings. Not sure if you will have to break it to remove: not too durable I'd guess. Cuttlefish bone is commonly used but they are one off.

It looks so easy (as in the video above) using fine (pure) silver. Not bothering with flux nor worrying about firescale nor needing a pickle to deal with it... Believe me, you save yourself a lot of ??? potential problems by starting with clean, pure metal.

I'd google around if I were you, read all you can find, and be prepared to deal with these and other problems you may encounter with melted scrap.

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#6
In reply to #4

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 9:28 AM

Ingot molds are made of material the metal does not wet and are smooth sided with enough taper so that the shrinkage on cooling frees the bar. Any legend you wish is tooled into or reliefed up from the mold bottom = top of finished ingot.

To turn into money, Johnson Mathey will give you a quote, but they have a minimum cost. Local buyers will buy for weight and estimated carat grade at a price that favors them.

I reclaim circuit boards, but I ship 2000 poinds at a time.

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#8
In reply to #4

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/08/2009 11:29 PM

If your silver has impurities and begins to blush brown-ish as jewelry, you'll also have to worry about the lynch mobs.

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#9

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/09/2009 1:46 AM

I Thought, and was taught, that all silver exposed to light goes 'Brownish' as it is the effect of light upon it, and is a chemical reaction. As in the silver in photographic plates etc. Oh well back to the drawing board and live and learn.

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#10
In reply to #9

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/09/2009 6:40 AM

Most of the oxidation that you see in sterling silver is attributed to its copper content. Fine .999 silver will also tarnish - brownish - or develop a mellow color (called 'patina') but it is very tarnish resistant cw sterling and never tarnishes black.

It isn't light that does it: you need water or other trace chemistry to get the reaction with oxygen. Sulfur compounds are used to deliberately tarnish for contrast effects.

Aside from the usual oxides, firescale can be a problem if the silver is exposed to an oxidizing atmosphere - it's recommended to use the reducing part of the flame: the blue or invisible tip of the torch flame - rather than the white part of the flame where there's lots of oxygen.

In a melt situation, boric acid or borax is typically used to deal with oxides and to prevent firescale when soldering. You will save yourself some hassles by making the scrap as clean as possible before the melt. Excess flux can lead to problems too, so read about the experience of others out there on the net. A warm acid "pickle" is used to clean away flux residue as well as firescale.

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#11
In reply to #9

Re: MOLD MAKING

06/09/2009 2:02 PM

Silver tarnishes black... A few years ago a lot of impure silver came from Mexico that would form brown deposits on the metal. This was initially the start of the Yugoslavian sitting of Mary and the miracle that silver was being turned to gold. People with good silver didn't experience this effect, and hence felt unfavored by God!

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