SOAR ME-530 DVM Schematic/Circuit

"blown up the Resistance input".

I take it that you need a schematic as you have destroyed some components beyond identification? If the manufacturer says to you to get buggered, "buy a new one from us"...read on...

I don't know zilch about your multimeter, but can probably help a very little by telling you what I do to fix stuffed goodies up and confuse the hell out of you....

Using a prototype breadboard, connect/solder wires to the extremeties of the (assumed) PCB board that have failed on the multimeter. The wire junctions should now seperate good traces/components from bad. Make a mud map of the failed area and then remove destroyed components and clean/test traces.

Next step is tricky...assuming you have an understanding of what function this part of the destroyed area performs, place new components (resistors, capacitors etc) on the breadboard and link the wires (the ones you soldered/connected to your destroyed meter) to the breadboard according to your understanding. Having arranged your components/wires etcetera on the breadboard in relation to your mud map, testing can commence from there.

Protections against shorts, surges etc. are a good idea on the breadboard to prevent further damage to undamaged components on the meter.

Calibration is an obvious final step. You will likely have to have change values to parts on your breadboard until you match a calibrated example under test from another multimeter. Once good components have replaced bad ones and parts transfered to your multimeter, calibration would need to be done again...so some trimpots would be a good idea.

...gawd, I had too much coffee

What in the HELL are you talking about? Being from Australia, you must be aware of your propensity for unusual expressions. They've been popularized by enough movies, etc. i.e. Paul Hogan. Is this really an aid to someone TRYING TO SOLVE A TECHNICAL PROBLEM (mud map !)? I am personally convinced you're doing it just for effect. That's BS !

Sorry mate but I had absolutely no problem following his instructions. Matbe you need a chill pill.

Benn sniffing R-502 again? It was perfectly clear to me, even with some expressions I'd never heard before. Too many people don't want to think, they want the answer handed to them. I have a tech working for me that always has to have a schematic. I keep telling him if you have the machine, draw your own schematic (mud map). One is the reciprocal of the other. If you don't know what a part or circuit is, draw a square with a question mark in it, complete as much as you can and then think "what has to be there to make what you know is there work and the over all machine do what it is supposed to do". When I was growing up they called them "black box" problems. -- JHF

"I am personally convinced you're doing it just for effect. That's BS !"

matey, this post was unanswered and I contributed at least something to get the troubled OP up and running...which is considerably more than what you jealously contributed...go back to your room you naughty boy and read your Phantom comics.

Gentlemen, all of your responses refer to how YOU interpreted ..Ozzy's message!

You know I REALLY didn't notice Crazy's language until you pointed it out. Mud map is a common expression (here) for a semi-vague diagram or set of directions.

Obviously you have slipped & used Ohms on volts!. Crazy gives very good advice- but if you don't want to go to that trouble(Iwouldn't)- look for a burnt resistor- if color markings burnt, scratch each end with needle points(res burn out in centre) & estimate total resistance- insert res- compare with another good meter- may need to change res slightly- I have fixed my own like this. Other option is buying/borrowing good same meter to compare. I doubt you will get a circuit.

My favorite was the time I was getting setup to measure the flame current on an oven pilot and I forgot to close the shunt. The microamp circuit in my NEW meter didn't like the 12,000 volt ignition spark voltage. It "let the smoke out"! -- JHF

P.S. of course one never makes that mistake with the old junk meter, always with the shiny new one!

Yes, the meter I usually use has the same socket for the probes for both voltage and resistance. This one has a different socket and I "just didn't think". Measured across 240 VAC and there was a just-perceptible spark. Now if you short the probes together on ohms the reading just wanders up and down all over the place. In reply to other posts, I had to re-read CraziestOzzy's post to see what the complaint was about. I guess it did use a few colloquialisms. Not to worry, she'll be right mate!

Gentlemen, all of your responses refer to how YOU interpreted ..Ozzy's message!

Isn't that exactly what you did? Oh wait, No, you didn't even bother to try. Ozzys message was clear and concise. If you cant find a diagram then you'll just have to experiment. Since this is an engineering forum, he was correct to assume that an individual requesting assistance repairing an older meter (for what ever reason) has the technical ability do do so even if they may occasionally need a little guidance. You on the other hand contributed nothing but criticisim based solely on dialect. Perhaps if you had offerd advice relative to the question you would be viewed some what less critically.

You are correct, thank you, I really DID mean to respond to the general comment area, not .... Ozzie, sorry to all.