looking for 2.3 ford point type distributor

I think that you should repair the electronics in your 2.3. The engine will run better, and last longer between plug changes. I would be happy to help you troubleshoot it over the web.

Try this. Check to be sure the coil has power when the key is on. Also check that the brain box has power at the red wire when in the key on position. If these both check out OK, turn off the key and remove the dist cap. Does all look good inside there? Look for tracking marks in the cap and rotor. Check for broken wires on the pickup in there also. If all looks good so far, place the dist cap away from your hands, and turn on the key again. This time rotate the engine until the pick up is NOT in line with any of the points that are going to turn with the distributer. Now take a steel screwdriver and touch the center of the pick up piece. Each and every time you touch and remove the screwdriver the coil should fire. It should be loud and bright blue. If not, substitute any other Ford pickup from any Ford product With an electronic distributer. If that now makes the coil fire, you need a new pick up. If not, trace your wiring till you find the problem. If you need, I can tell you where the wires on your electronic ignition system go. The system you have is a very powerful system. It will work very well and hard when repaired.

This chipper may have been rigged over the years. there are only 7 wires needed to make it run. And it will be cheaper than replacing the distributer.

But if you are determined to replace the dist, Mallory still lists distributors for this engine. http://www.malloryperformance.com/MMYApplication.aspx?makeName=ford&modelName=pinto&yearName=1974&modelDetailName=&brandID=6

Good luck.

I was just using the pinto as an example i thought might be the same engine. This engine is really about a 1979 ford 2.3. will it use the same distributor as the 74 pinto would. I was just surprised that i remembered what other engine looked like it correctly.

You are correct, the 2.3 was used in the 74 Pinto with points. But it is a single year only. 73 did not offer the 2.3, and 75 had electronic ignition. NAPA does offer rebuilt point type distributors under #NRD482400, or NDR482480. But be warned, you will need to also replace the coil. and spark plugs. The wide gaps used with electronics would quickly foul with points. You will also need to install a ballast resistor into the system to get longer than a week out of points. One more thing, you will need to make up new wires to run to the coil and ignition switch. Fix the Duraspark system.

we arent too worried about the engine not being in top working order, as long as it will sputter along for a few hours a week is good enough. We are just tired of the electrical problems, and want quick, easy operation. Power is going to the brain through a new(it was missing)resistor on the pigtail with 2 wires.The yellow wire is the one that goes hot when key is turned on.The resistor was missing,so we replaced the brain with a new one in case it was bad. when the switch is on, the coil pack recieves power.We got a new coil anyway. I will try a few other things you said and get back in touch. thanks, charles

I am assuming that this engine uses the duraspark ignition system? The Duraspark module would be about 4" square and about 1.25" thick. That ignition system is a very reliable system. Before you toss the baby out with the bathwater, do the basics and properly test the system. If you keep the Duraspark system, your engine will have more power and use less gasoline than it will with an ignition point system, plus it will not need near as much maintenance as an ignition point system will.

The system is very basic. It uses a variable reluctance trigger in the distributor to trigger the transistor in the ignition module. You can test the system with a digital volt meter, although an oscilloscope will be way better for a test instrument. If the wires between the distributor have been switched around, the engine will start, but not run, since the ignition timing will be way far advanced. The Module has a key on power to it, which is ran through a resistance wire, or in the case of your industrial unit, it might be just a ceramic ballast resistor in the primary ignition feed circuit. This should cut the voltage down to around 7 volts when current is flowing through the coil. There will be one wire that is battery voltage during start. This wire will come from a terminal over on the starter relay. Then there is a ground wire, which will be black. This ground wire should run to the distributor, so that both the module and the distributor are grounded together. A wiring diagram of this system would be a great help!

I don't belive I have ever found an ignition point distributor for a 2.3, unless you can find something from the late 70's. The pinto might have used one, but it would be from a 2.0 engine. A mercury capri might have uesd something like this, although this stuff is getting a little on the old side.

The 2.0 is the same engine. I think it actually started out even a little smaller than 2.0 liter. 1.6 perhaps. This engine was still in use in the early 90's in Thunderbirds and Mustangs. should be easy enough to find bone yard parts.

the early 2.0(and 1.6) is NOT the same engine as the 2.3! almost nothing will interchange.you can find 2.3 points type distributors on early(74) Pintos,Capri's and Couriers.

My ranger PU had a 2.0 liter. It was IDENTICAL to the 2.3. The only difference was that it was destroked. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two. The distributor would interchange!

The replacement distributers listed for the 2.0 and 2.3 are different in the NAPA catalog. If it does fit, the OP will still need to replace the coil, plugs. and wiring between. And then he will have lost all of the built in advantages of electronic ignitions.

Thanks,everybody. We went ahead and found someone to repair the old duraspark system. The resistor ballast was not in the unit when we got it, so that burnt out the control box. Actually, the result was bad coil, bad box, bad alternator and bad distributor so now its running fine on used parts. $250 well spent.

Glad for you in two ways, first your 2.3 is running, second, you are back to the electronic system. What color is the rubber grommet that seals the wires exiting your control unit. That is the most common part to fail on the Dura-Spark systems. When you find someone selling one of these at an inexpensive price, buy a spare. They usually fail when hot. Try to keep yours cool when the eng is running. If the ECM fails, you will be able to rust plug in the spare and continue. Best of luck.

I hope you have been using your 2300 c.c. Lima Engine since you wrote this... But this last week I Decided to Convert My Electronic Ign to Points... I Found one with Cardone Automotive Enginering. [ M. S. D. Makes The Real Hot Ign. System... / $ 800.00 Compleete. ] So Monday, 1 Dec. I'm going to try to buy / Order '74 Pinto Ign. Compleete... Cardone @ an auto parts Store, 10 Miles away.

Why do you want to convert back to points on your 2.3? Do you realize that you will need to lower the voltage to the coil to keep from burning points at an elevated rate?

When I Went to Electronic... I left the Primary Resister connected, That could have been a problem. { My 2300 c.c. Lima in in a '74 Ford Courier... } I let an Electrician wire the ign. He put a Chrysler Control Mod. in... Well it worked for a while, but I Don't want to go through all that stuff any more! ( I know enough about Points Dist. to keep the truck running ...) When I get wealthy again... I'll get a M.S.D.

If the distributer in your 74 is from that same year, the system is very simple. There are only 3 wires to the dist, and 6 on the ignition module, and three of them are the dist wires. If you send me an email address, I will send a simple drawing for you. The cost of the modules is less than a dist.

The little truck, has been (1) One problem after another... I.m trying to make it dependable... ( '74 Courier 2000 c.c. Now: '76 ~ 2300 c.c. Lima "PINTO") I could have saved Time & Money if I would have put my '85 Mustang 302 C.I. in.

The problem with Electronic Ign. in the Non Electronic ( Points Type.) is ALL The Components Should Match "work in sink." If I could Get All of the Components... It would be Trouble installing them & Expensive! + More things to go wrong & Diagnose. { I'm Opting for simple...)

The NAPA part for the module is TP36SB, list is $53.94.

for the pick up is MP712, list is $60.30.

For the point type dist, you have two choices;

With single vacuum control is 482400, at $116.72 list with a core charge of $16.67.

With a duel vacuum control is 482480, at $107.70 list with no core.

You can use the duel vacuum control, and just use the outboard vacuum connection.

I hope this helps some. Any way I can help, let me know.

I just sent you a PM Bob, here are pics of my project, It is a mini pulling tractor, I bought it from the estate of the builder, I feel it will be a great project for my Grandson and I.

I sent you a PM. What does it use for a transmission and drive axles? If it does not work out, there may be some Chevy Cavalier owners that might be willing to let go of some parts.

Hi Bob, I have no idea on the trans and drive axles, trans I assume is a Pinto and rear end looks (to this retired bookkeeper) like a pick-up truck rear end, here is a pic of the whole rig.

The builder died before hooking up the electronics and gas, his son told me they rebuilt the engine and turned it over using jumper cables to the starter and then it sat until I bought it.

More pics, I assume you guys love pics here!?

Final taken today pics

On closer examination, it appears that that is going to be too much fun of a project for you. I suggest you send it to me as soon as possible. (Just to protect you)

Laughing Loudly!

It appears to be a matching motor and trans.

Unless that axle is from something very industrial, what you have is a 700 pound Pinto. It will fly. Power to weight is on par with a 700 HP Ferrari. Limit it to first gear if you have to. Try to put "U" bends on the exhaust pipes to keep water from getting back into the engine. Get some kind of air filter to keep water out of the carb. Put something over that driveshaft. Anything that drops onto it while driving will hurt the driver badly.

But, that thing will be more fun than anything in the neighborhood. I hope you have some room to play with it. Bob.