Removing Epoxy from Granite Counter Tops

You need either a sharp file or a small grinder like a dremmel tool with a reinforced grinding wheel attachment. But be careful not to scratch up the rest of the countertop, because it would be easy to do!

Dremel- the ULTIMATE tool! You can get diamond grinders in a variety of shapes for this as well, and sanding discs of various grits- the problem, as noted, is holding on to the Dremel and not letting it walk out of the area being dressed!

Can you send a picture?

use a flat sharp blade to trim the flat granite. A razor blade will work, just shave it down.

the problem with epoxy is the toughness, so you need to cut it. Methylene chloride paint remover will cause it to expand by 50% to 100% and become very weak. Keep the methylene chloride off hands an vent the place. Do not use the caustic based paint removers, they will not work,

the other way to degrade epoxy is heat, but heat might make crack spread, and you must heat uniformly

Would a run razor help? This lets you move the blade closer to the surface in 0.001" increments.

I would remove it out of the house and then sweep it with a sand blaster. Apply a new coating and reinstall. You have to coat it Granite can be harmful uncoated.

I wonder if you know what harm granite can be if left uncoated. When we installed granite counters about 15 years ago, the salesman sold us a bottle of sealer and advised us to use it. After some searching as to why one would want to put silicone sealant on granite, I convinced myself that it was to seal microscopic cracks where germs could breed. Is there another reason I should know about?

"Is there another reason I should know about?"

Talking of granite there are some issues which, of course, have little to do with coating of sealants like epoxy.

Depending on origin, granite is known to emit certain amount of Radon and Gamma radiations.

http://www.doh.state.fl.us/environment/community/radon/granite.htm by Florida state on "Radon and Granite Counter Tops" have some useful information.

On the http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/46028?frmtrk=cr4sd#newcomments I had suggested the following method for cured epoxy removal. You may also see there are other useful leads for tackling the problem.

Method 1

It is easy to remove cured epoxy by heating it above its glass transition (softening point) temperature, cut or chisel it away. Care to be taken to protect with face mask and provide good ventilation to avoid inhalation of epoxy odor.

Method 2

Immerse cured resin in Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride) which will cause it to swell and can be scrapped away.

Caution: Dichloromethane is the least toxic of the simple chlorohydrocarbons, but it is not without its health risks as its high volatility makes it an acute inhalation hazard. Dichloromethane is also metabolized by the body to carbon monoxide potentially leading to carbon monoxide poisoning. Acute exposure by inhalation has resulted in optic neuropathy and hepatitis. Prolonged skin contact can result in the dichloromethane dissolving some of the fatty tissues in skin, resulting in skin irritation or chemical burns.

Method 3: "Circa 1850 Heavy Body paint & Varnish Remover" might soften and make it easy to remove cured resin.

I would recommend method 3 being easiest and least hazardous.

Question: Did you re-enforced by glueing a 3/4 inch plywood under the granite counter by using 2-pack epoxy glue? If you have hair-line cracks, 2-pack clear epoxy injection is the best glue. How you get a gap? For me a gap is more than hair-line crack. The granite counter is coated with 2-pack epoxy clear self-levelling coating or sprayed? In both cases, you can use a blend of 20 to 25% by volume of ketone ( methyl ethyl or methyl amyl ketone) and 75 to 80% by volume of benzyl alcohol. Cover the counter with a piece of thick textile material (thin cover is the best) and wet it generously with the blend and cover all with plastic sheet to maintain liquid under and don't let evaporate ketone easily. I my solution is not effective, you question is not clear. All the best, Gil.

You can try sand-blowing or corundum-blowing. Then you can polish the surface with blowing grinded nutshell.

You are absolutely right! Some Hungarians are simple, fantastic, and knowledgeable. The counter-top loose some 1/16 of an inch in thickness and the customer will see nothing but will be happy. Between you and me, here we call sand-blasting at place of sand-blowing. When you are in North-America, you cannot blow, you have to blast to show a definitive dammage. See the late movies, there are only blasts and blasts. Nobody blows. Ah, blow ups? There are only local problems. A blast is to memorize and to improve. Ah, the counter-top? I hope we understood the question and the counter-top owner will be happy after our conversation. Vislat from here, Gil.