Part 2 - Fabricating a Wind Tunnel

does it have a lockup converter?

You're probably not going to be running full blast for more than a few minutes, are you?

you could use the drive shaft for part of the jack shaft...

A little 0³ will either get you your data or a melted big block

It not like you can't find another one

The unit of measure would be

minutes of 550hp per $100 junkyard motor

couple of well placed scatter shields, to keep the occasional errant piston in line

good to go

ozone?!? i had no idea anyone was injecting O3. can you reference with a link?
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benbenben

Brain fart

I meant

nitrous oxide

Garthh,

Its from a 1984 coachman 38' motorhome, I don't think the converter is the lockup type. Yes at max power only for a couple of min.

yes, Nos is a cheap solution to more power.

thx

no lock up

the converter is going to slip, since your load is higher than the capacity of the big block, probably gonna need to compensate by adjusting the ratio of the belts & pulleys a bit.

maybe just skip the removal process completely & fab up a pulley adapter that bolts up in place of one of the rear rims & block the other side, you won't melt the rear end from the short term intermittent use...

or just go rent an rv everytime you want to test a prototype...

a drive on rig, wind tunnel as dyno, recruit powerplants from the motor heads stationed at edwards...

I'd mark as off topic, but I'm not sure I am...

Garthh,

Not off topic, its these kind of brain storms that have got me this far; here's what we're doing. This is a hillbilly wind tunnel, the RV was burned, so we rip the inside out, cut the front half of the cab off but leave the frame and engine all mounted and mount the fan in back of where the drivers seat would be (above the end of the trany), then cut the back end off leaving the open ended, box shaped, middle. It will be ugly, but it should be functional, and we got it for a couple hundred $, so, when I let off the gas to the engine will the fan gently keep turning (slowing of course), and not rip the blades off? Will it spin and not shock the blades, you know like the RV coasting down hill?

I not actually kidding & can tell you're not locked in to the way it's "supposed to be done"

Won't the auto trans, shift down since the load is so high?

probably just end up in 2nd gear & not getting to full speed

Maybe just bolt the pulley to the flywheel...

just riffing here

as long as I only put it in 1st or 2nd and not drive then it shouldn't shift.

then the final drive ends up being less than 1:1 doesn't it?

What cheap & dirty method of mounting up a pulley so as not to put too much side load on the output shaft of the trans?

How many belts wide does the pulley have to be 5,6 ?

I need to talk to a pulley mfgr about the size and number of belts, either i need to ignor the side loads and just replace the trany as it breaks or raise the mounting up so the fan comes straight off the back of the trany with a lovejoy style coupling. what do you think?

back of the trans has either a yoke or splined shaft for the drive shaft.

fab up a short section of drive shaft mounted between 2 carrier bearings for the pulley [taper lok] to mount on there's probably 1 carrier bearing on the motor home carcass..

mounting the pulley close to even 1 carrier bearing would probably do.

thx Garthh, good idea, GA. Lynn

I didn't try it

Gates design widgit

looks like easy answers...

didn't I see this build on junk yard wars?