Sweating insulation

Depending on your particular situation, you could consider; 1) Air conditioning the ambient air to lower its dew point appropriately 2) Use metallized insulation so the water will condense on the metal before the vapor penetrates the rubber, 3) install a coaxial metal pipe and purge the space between the pipes with dry gas.

Have you checked the required insulation thk? Even for 200nb pipe, 100mm insulation thk will be required. PUF insulation is better than rubber insulation. Sealing of all insulation joints with flexible roll insulation of 3mm thk is a must

"1)How to pver ove this issue" Please re-state the question - I cannot even guess what you're asking. If English is not your first language, can you ask someone else to translate? Or ask in your own language (identify it in the subject line, if possible) and let someone else translate here.

The more information that you can provide, the better chance that someone here can help. To do so, we MUST understand the problem as fully as possible.

There are many kinds of "rubber" Can you identify the chemical type, or the brand? Is it a foam? Does it have a continuous "skin" on at least one surface? Is it two or more separate layers (or is the vapor barrier of the same material?), and how are they held together? How is is applied: adhesive, external ties, over-wrapping with another material? If you remove sections, can they be dried and re-applied, or replaced in sections? Could you perhaps wrap a waterproof material around the outside, such as a spiral wrap of a plastic or solid rubber sheeting, with an adhesive to seal the joint? If such a wrap can be obtained in 5-meter-wide rolls, it could be applied in-line, and would permit an overlap that could be sealed, possibly with an adhesive, or with edges together, folded to put the opening inside a rolled-up seam. Where there are penetrations for support or other reasons, can you fill the void with RTV or another material to seal against water penetration?