Garage Door Remote

Try this and make a choice, there are many. And don't loose your car now.

copy and paste

http://images.google.com/images?q=12+volts+regulator+diagram&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7GGLL_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=QFm6S

This guy has a pretty clean installation for your question:

Rather than convert an existing remote, he used the SKYLINK G6M, which operates on 12VDC.

He does not say, but I imagine with this plan you would have to replace receiver and transmitter as a pair. That might be more trouble than it is worth... At any rate, the generalized installation process is pretty clean. You might pick up some pointers there.

Thanks for the idea, but check my post #7!

get charger plug for accesory all ready made.

like this one.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hibaba-Cigarette-Lighter-Universal-Adaptor/dp/B000KDXC7K

I posted only half of my idea: I bought a device called Autoswitch http://www.autoswitch.com which is a very clever gadget! You wire the Autoswitch to your car (ca 30 min) and the 2 free cables to the remote control. So, every time you blink your headlights twice your garage door get´s opened / closed. To make this idea PERFECT I wanted to eliminate the battery from the remote and drop it UNDER the dashboard, completely out of sight. I already have one on my BMW 1200GS and use it to turn the auxiliary lamps on and of by tapping the turn light cancel button twice.

As I said before: don't lose your car. Hasta la vista.

Yeah, it´s uncle Alzheimers fault! :-) :-) :-)

I actually want to get a reliable 12V source to prevent frying the electronics of the remote control, and to operate it without using a toggle. http://www.autoswitch.com/

Easiest way is to use a Zener diode (about 50 cents from digikey).

I've chosen resistors to give you 5 mA, but, if you make the electrolytic capacitor big enough to support a full transmission then you can reduce the drain on your main battery a lot more by increasing the resistor sizes.

But this one will always drain your battery, even when the remote is not in use. And if you chose the resistor too high it will not work at all. In Europe LM....and uL (micro) regulators cost 12 cents.

I agree but car batteries are rated in "hundreds" of amp. hours so at 5 mA the Zener circuit would take "hundreds" of days to drain a battery.

I was trying to pander to his request for a simple DIY circuit, and at the same time perhaps teach a little basic electronics.

Your suggestion:-

Is much better, and, on reflection wouldn't be any more difficult to wire up, but, doesn't have the same "simple" appeal (to me anyway).

I will try this one! This weekend listen to the radio: should a massive blackout ocurr in Argentina, you´ll know who has been behind it! ;-)

The zener needs to be matched to work in the zener effect part of the curve, what requires some current indeed. All the time, unless you switch off before your circuit. When you you allow the zener to get 5 mA, and the remote needs more, there will be no 12 volts left, because your resistor will take more voltage. (U= R*I) The proposed series regulator doesn't have that problem. But when dimensioned properly both work.

Dear DVM, you are talking to a poor creature only capable of chewing gum and... crossing the street at the same time! Your explanation goes far beyond my capability of understanding. If you say it will work, I believe you! This weekend I´ll assemble the circuit you proposed. Already have ordered the parts. Best regards!