Anilox Roller Repair

I would think that some flexible two part silicone based potting material may work for you. But without knowing what kind of solvents you use in your inks and to clean the press I wouldn't even hazard a guess.

Never mind. Obviously I thought that this roller was supposed to flex.

Nope. Check this out. Manufacturing Process

thank you

Replacing press rollers when they get old and begin to break down is the best solution. If new ones are out of the question, then perhaps rebuilding the ones you have may work. A Google search should give you a selection of sources for this service. lynlynch has given one. There are others.

tommm

The problem you have has two parts. The first aspect involves replacing the metal chips on the edges of the anilox roll. The anilox rollers are to be very stiff and rigid , most have atleast a steel outer surface. Second, the solvents are a problem with some epoxies.

I have been working in composites and rollers for several years. I would machine away a small step on the corners of each edge. Machine the step with a small taper to mechanically lock the material in place. ( the inboard edge will be deeper than the outboard edge of the step)

I would suggest using a vinyl ester, Derkane 470 with 1/32 milled fiberglass. This vinyl ester has excellant solvent resistance. Without knowing the ink composition, this is the best place to start. After machining, build a dam on the end of the roll edge with masking tap to hold the resin while curing. Mix the resin and curing agents with the milled fiber and fill the step. Overfill by about a 1/16 of an inch.The Derakane will cure depending on the mix and temperature. No heat is required. Allown to cure and then machine with a sharp ceramic / carbide insert. Machine about 0.005 under the diameter of the roll and coat with just the derakane 470. Cure and off you go!

Scott Hansen

203-723-4400 Ext 226

Wow,

A GA on your very first post. Your advice is sound as far as I'm concerned, and easier than rebuilding. Although I am not familiar with the specific product you cite, I am familiar with vinyl esters and their chemical resistance. I believe that the ceramic filled material I suggested also would work, but the tapered step is a good idea for sure.

Welcome to CR4 and, so you'll know, we usually add a disclaimer whenever we mention a product by brand name, because we are supposed to keep this site free of commercialism.

Anilox rolls are coated with a plasma sprayed Chrome oxide, diamond ground and polished, then laser engraved using a YAG laser. the coating is very sensitive to mechanical forces acting on it. The chipping from the edge is classic, the coating has very little support at its edge. Use JB weld for the chips. I have used this in the past for similar repairs. The surface you are repairing must be free of any residual solvents. More than likely there is a bond coat of a nickle alloy under the Oxide. this could be contaminated with the solvent since it contains some porosity. Apply heat at that area using a heat lamp for a few hours, that should do the trick. Any heat applied to the roll edge needs to soak in and not exceed 250F, the coating is sensitive to thermal shock, especially locally. the exposed are you wish to repair will need to be roughened, use a small grit blast gun to blast the exposed area. Use Duck tape around the coating leaving around an eighth of an inch which to blend in the epoxy. If the blast is done correctly the ceramic coating should not roughen.

I will find this stuff and give it a whirl.

Thanks