Help Please 03 Cavalier

Matt,

You need a new car.

If it "slams" when you put it in gear, the idling speed might be too high......check.

Check for air leak on intake...such as pipe to brake servo booster.

You do not give enough dope.

Jurie

time to get new car anything but cavalier

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if it's slamming into gear the clutch is stuffed.

I'm taking it you have an older automatic gearbox.

i hate to be rid of it because weve been from coast to coast doing electrical work its got 250,000 miles and uses no oil!awesome, huh?! plus its paid for. anyways thanks for thwe help

Matt, the reason lyn suggested the vehicle replacement is simple:

In the last 68 days, there have been 86 threads started about a Chevy Cavalier. It appears to be the most troublesome car on the road, and it is certainly the most troublesome car we hear about.

For some of these discussions, check here.

First thing to do is look for a vacuum leak. Another thing you might check is your CV joints, if one is going out it will feel like you're slamming it into gear and even vibrate.

1. Assuming the idle speed of the engine is not too high... "slamming into gear" will generally be caused by too high a pump pressure.

Pump pressure is regulated in the gearbox to make gear shifts correctly: idling - low pressure, smooth change. Accelerating hard, high pressure, firm change with minimal slipping (just like you would let out the clutch hard in a fast change on a manual gearbox).

Pressure is determined in a couple of ways - a vacuum line from manifold, or electronically - throttle position sensor, rpm etc.

If Vacuum, check vacuum hose from inlet to gearbox.

2. Shuddering (if its caused by the gearbox)- get the car to an Auto transmission specialist,

3. Get you wallet out!!

If both symptoms are related (most likely), rerer to 3.

Tony

Just saw this problem with a GM v6 pickup truck. Check the torque converter, you can try a temp repair with an additive from NAPA auto parts. It is a friction modifier for torque converters. It comes in a red plastic tube just cut the end and install in fluid and drive it for a few miles. and the shudder should go away for a while. Not a permanent fix but will give you time to get repaired. Duke

The shuddering while driving reminds me of a coil ,spark plug, or related wiring breaking down under load. If you have a distributer, also check the cap and rotor.

I also would think you may have engine speed to high due to a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak could be causing both of your symptoms. Another long shot is wheel lugs not tight enough. When changing direction vehicle directions, it is only the wheel studs that keep the power connected from the drive train to the tires. If they are not tight, the studs will slam into the opposite side of the wheel holes. Good luck.

I had a Ford with an automatic transmission that a transmission shop wanted $2400.00 to overhaul, 25 years ago. A Ford dealership mechanic said all that was needed was to change the transmission fluid, that took care of the problem. You probally have some other problems as already suggested, but the fluid change may help the studder.

It really sounds like a vacuum leak however it could be the Idle Air control valve sticking this causes many different problems and is really easy to clean just take out two screws and clean it as well as the port with carb cleaner. Do not adjust the valve/motor without the specs to reset it. Did the accel problem start after you checked your plugs?

Just a quick question, does this car have a OBD connection that can be accessed, and when was the last time it had any computer flashing work performed? I am not that familiar with that model, but given the vintage alone on the car, you may have lost some programing associated with either the engine or transmission. Granted it sounds like you need some other pieces replaced, but what could it hurt? Good luck.

i have an odb2 and took care of my fault codes. i have no codes now, i changed the tranny fluid and the slaming stopped. when i run the car to where it studders during accel i plug the odb in a get a misfire code but only momentarly. so im leaning really hard to a coil pack. my plugs are clean and white not fouled or burnt.like i said it only studders when i accel to fast, if i accel a little slower it doesnt happen and doesnt happen during cruise control at 75mph.

You are probally on the right track with the coil pack, also look for signs of high voltage tracking, it could weaken the spark. My car studders at idle and at the lower rpm when accelerating, but runs stong as the rpm builds, which I believe is due to a vacumn leak that I haven't chased down yet.

Unfortunately the coil design on your car is expensive.

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If the plugs are new, or not eroded away to the point that the gap is excessive, I fear you will need to replace the coil pack. Look for any signs that the path the spark must take from coil to plug is not causing an easier path to ground than the coil. A good test for a ignition system is the "crowd" test. Start with an open, uncrowded road, and drive in high gear at minimum throttle opening to maintain steady 35 MPH. Slowly crowd the gas pedal to increase speed, NOT, a hard slam, just keep gradually pushing the pedal further down. Eventually the car should downshift. Just before the downshift, was the engine bucking and stumbling? If so suspect ignition breakdown, If not ignition system is good. This is the best test I know of to load an ignition system. Good luck.

Matt; here is another "little thing' for you to do. I once had a car that I had a chance to jumpstart for a lady, it was late in the evening at an office where I was just getting ready to go home from, when I noticed her sitting in front of the office, hood up, and not looking all that happy. It was dark, and when I finally got it jumpstarted, removed the cables and was just about to close the hood,...I got a light show I'll remember for a long time. The car wasn't the best kept up, and as I was just about to close the hood, I glanced inwards towards the motor, and could see some pretty blue electricity dancing along the wires, only on this car, back towards the distributor. That explained the missing now and then. Anyway...have someone crank the car while you have the hood cracked enough that you can see the plug wires, just for grins and giggles, have your helper slowly apply some throttle. See if you have anything dancing along your wiring...might get a surprise answer. Simple test, and amusing as well! Good luck (Change the tranny filter as well yet?)