2001 Hyundai Sante Fe Trans Issue

I would look to see if the axle is turning. Sounds like a CV joint/final drive snapped.

i checked that and it doesnt move and i feel no vibration from the half shafts when u shift it. is this something mechanical or more electrical? both of which i can fix given the right idea but money is a big issue as i am in the military and we dont get paid as well as ppl think lol..

I would think that vintage car would produce an error code/ check engine light if it was electrical. I tried doing a search and came upon the following article. I know it is for a 2010 model (did you transpose your year?), but th edescription comes close to your symptom. Are you under 100,000 miles? Does the car have 100K warranty?

Original Recall from the NHTSA

Model Year(s): 2010

Mfr's Report Date: April 27, 2011

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 11V261000

NHTSA Action Number: PE11010

Component: POWER TRAIN:DRIVELINE:DRIVESHAFT

Potential Number of Units Affected: 6169

Summary: HYUNDAI IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2010 SANTA FE 2WD VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS AND 2.4L ENGINES MANUFACTURED FROM OCTOBER 15, 2009 THROUGH MARCH 5, 2010. THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT MAY SUFFER FROM NOISE AND EXCESSIVE WEAR DUE TO A MISALIGNMENT OF THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT WITH THE RIGHT SIDE OUTPUT GEAR. CONTINUING TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE IN THIS CONDITION LEADS TO THE DEVELOPMENT OF A WHIRRING/WHINING NOISE AND CAN EVENTUALLY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

Consequence: DAMAGE TO THE TRANSMISSION MAY CAUSE LOSS OF MOTIVE POWER, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE RIGHT SIDE OUTPUT GEAR AND INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING JUNE 2011. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HYUNDAI'S CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE CENTER AT 1-800-633-5151.

Notes: HYUNDAI'S SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN NUMBER IS 102. OWNERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV

i actually just hit 100k last week but i didnt have the warrenty to cover it anyways. is there something else i can check to get a more pinpointed answer. i have a fluke and all the hand tools but no obd2. i had also heard about reflashing the tcm but i dont think this is in relation to this issue.

and more about the noise it sounded like the ratchet pawl on the parking gear when u shift out of park on a hill. hopefully that gives u a way better idea of the noise type.

Your sound description is leaning towards internal transmission failure. I would find a Chiltons or go to the local ( are you near a large city) library and in the reference section find the Mitchell's Manuals. The library should have a an array of them for makes and years. Ask the librarian to help find then and may be a separate section for foreign makes. They will also have some specialty books for transmission, etc. As a Viet Nam vet, I understand the available cash issue.I hope you have some alternate transportation while this repair is underway.A consideration you are faced with may be the time and cost of parts you will need plus being without the car for awhile verses getting it towed and repaired. Some shops provide free towing but then you know they will charge you in some way on the bill.

I am hoping another person on here has had more experience with this make model year.

You mentioned a noise like coming off of Park, does Park lock the axles so the car cannot be moved? With both drive wheels off the ground and motor not running and out of park, try turning one wheel and see if the opposite wheel turns the opposite direction. Try the other side too.

If it is Electronic Engine/ Automatic Transmission,please check the following parameters;

1.Engine oil & Transmission oil level.if it is low, top up it.and run for certain KM.

2.Check the Coolant level.if it is low, top up it.and run for certain KM.As well as check the engine oil temperature and transmission oil temperature.

3.Check the Connectors connections,in Engine and Tansmission system.which transfers the signal to ECU system.

4.Connect to the ECU and find out the Fault code and refer the manual to rectify.

5.Observe the smoke,if it is dark black,then check blow by air i.e.,opacity.If the opacity value is high then failure may be piston ring r oil ring,gasket failure and heating of engine system high due to high temperature in coolant continuos flow..

6.If it is related to Transmission fault code,it may be improper wiring connection r else piston ring which has got rubber on the circumference may got failure....inside the transmission.

7.Please check any leakages between lines from air filter to engine inlet..

8.Please check the radiator out temperature,which goes to engine..it may lead to keep engine temperature high,and pop bliking Check engine lamp.

the reason may be under this parameters.........please tell me it is Diesel or Petrol engine..?????

Any Autozone, Pep Boys or Advance Auto will read your codes for free. You can do it or a counter jockey will do it if you are willing to wait.

It won't move when any gear is selected? Forward or reverse? That would narrow the problem in the valve body, but if you are going to pull the tranny anyway I would hit the junk yard for a replacement (money-saving hint).

When you say fwd do you mean four wheel drive or front wheel drive? If it's four wheel drive you can disconnect the front or rear drive train and see if the vehicle will run one without the other connected. That may give an indication if your transfer case/transmission/range selector (whatever) is the culprit.

It sounds like a seal may have blown out, not allowing full oil pressure to the clutch packs.

Being you can't drive the car, you should check with the local auto part stores and see if you can rent an OBD2. But I think the only thing the fault codes are going to tell you is, "the transmission is broken".

You should also remove the transmission pan and inspect for any metal particles by straining the fluid thru an old t-shirt, (dark cloth colors are better to see metallic particles), inspect the the contents in the bottom of the pan, for metal shavings, gear teeth, parts of rubber o-rings. You should also open the tranny filter and inspect it for all the above. This could give you an idea, in what direction your going to go, to solve the problem. * when you open the filter, be careful not to add shavings from the process of opening filter case. It's normal to see fine grey particles of clutch material, but nothing bigger than 1/16". Good Luck, DJ

After checking the one tire spinning the other test above, You should be able to chock the rear wheels and allow the both front wheels to try to turn from engine power.( GOOD jack stands)If one of the wheels spins when put in drive, give it some gas. Try to hold 30 MPH. Now apply some brake while trying to maintain 30. (2 feet) It could be spider gears in the differential. Manual shift linkage that has come apart inside the trans. Engine flex plate to converter bolts backed out. Another thing to check would be transmission pressure. Good luck.

Wonder what happen to the OP and if they found the problem?

sorry everybody for not being on here the last couple days. i been rippin into that tranny and i found that the final drive had shattered.so i researched and pulled a salvage one for now and i have it on the road cautiously lol. thanks for all the input guys and hope you all have a blessed day!!!!

Be sure to flush that drive a few times to be sure all the metal remnants are gone.