Blown Compared To Rolled Insulation

Emmett,

Darn good advice, comes from - having been there, done that!.

I believe blown cellulose is the best insulation for an attic. Others may differ, but the benefits for me are - easy installation, it doesn't itch, and cost. I use a respirator and goggles.

About the only thing that won't hold water is closed cell polyurethane foam. Of course, in case of a fire, it'll kill everybody much faster, so . . .

I'd blow cellulose if it was me. Wear a respirator!

If your happy to vacuum your house twice a day for the rest of your life then blown cellulose is good. My experience with it is that it promotes vermin (though it's not supposed to), the dust gets into anything with a fan (computers, fridges AC's, etc). and you perpetually have dust issues in the house from it. After all its only mulched and dried waste newspaper.

While its very easy to install you have to keep it away from light fittings and exhaust fans. Then you have to put something ontop of it to keep it in place.

Fibreglass batts are probably the best for beating ongoing dust and vermin issues. Yes you need to suit up to install it but you only do that once. But then you should use PPE with any insulation installation..

There is one other product that looks like bubble wrap with silver foil on it. Don't bother unless you use it to keep the cellulose down. Careful how you staple it in place you don't want to staple through power wiring...

You just answered a 15 year question....why we have sooo much dust in our house.

I blew about 8 inches of cellulose into my attic 15 yeasr ago ...hmmm between fixing the roof after Andrew and maybe Lilly ( hurricanes).

If I have that white fiberglass fluff blown over the cellulose, will that settle the dust, or do i need to use the fiberglass batts?

I'm sorry you guys are getting insulation from your attic into your living space. I've had blown cellulose for 12 yrs. with no dust other than the layer on top of the insulation. I would start caulking any cracks around crown moulding, light fixtures, base, and door casings, inside closets too. If its over 1/8 inch use foam or fill with wood then caulk. Weatherstrip any attic access.

If you have dust coming in from your attic you have air infiltration. I would be glad it is not fiberglass dust. Yes, old fiberglass becomes easily airborne and is nasty stuff. I would bet it's worse to breath than cellulose even with the fire retardant.

Most (especially older) recessed light fixures cannot have any type of insulation within a few inches of them and that is why they are a poor choice of lighting in areas that need insulation. Exhaust fans should be properly vented to the outside and buried along with as much of the HVAC ductwork as possible.

I cannot imagine why someone would have to put something on top of blown cellulose to keep it in place, gravity has always been sufficient. Mabey this is a unique situation that I don't understand. Where does your cellulose try to go?

I'm in the process of installing insulation in our house as well. I came across a non-fiberglass insulation product at Lowe's that may interest you. You may be able to find it in other stores. Price is equivalent to that of fiberglass batte insulation, and from what I can surmise, it is easier to handle and install. Best of all, no long sleeve shirts, face masks, etc needed.....you will not itch!

The product is called "Rolux". I have pasted the Lowe's description of it as follows:

• Excellent sound absorbency - sound deadening properties
• Chemically inert
• Does not rot or sustain vermin
• Does not promote growth of fungi or mildew
• CFC & HCFC free product & process
• Friction fit to ensure optimum performance -- no sag over the years
• Better fit - Flexible edge compensates for normal frame variability
• Made from natural & recycled materials
• User friendly -- no fiberglass in product
• Easily cut
• Easier and faster to install
• Water resistant
• Non-combustible
• Fire resistant - 2150 degrees Fahrenheit

I hope this information helps you.

My neighbours had cellulose (shredded newspaper) blown into their ceiling. It was then spray GLUED to stop it blowing around. I put in fibreglass batts / sheets about 4 inches thick, with an R rating of 3.3 (?). If you want avoid the itch if DIY, try genuine wool batts - yes the wool comes from sheep. I have no idea what the cost would be in the States, but it may make someone in Montana or elsewhere happy - and you too !

Cellulose will settle, rolled is better. My preference is Icynene open cell. It's true that closed cell won't allow water to leak through but that's not necessarily a good thing. A neighbor used closed cell and the roof had totally rotted before he even knew it leaked. Open cell would have let the roof leak permeate to the ceiling affording the opportunity to make a couple of minor repairs rather than a major roof replacement.

Icynene installed properly seals the home from air leaks therefore an air exchange system needs to be installed. The fact that you are only doing an attic leads me to guess that air exchange won't be an issue at this stage.

I've used them all in the past and am sold on Icynene Open cell.

Good luck

You make a good point on the water proof product. Down here we do not have subtle leaks....we have big @$$ holes and shredded plywood.

The point you make is a good one though.

Took another good look around the attic last night . Seems pretty air tight at all the corners and such. I am still wondering if the dust is just something that naturally occurs because we live out in the country ( dirt and gravel roads and such)???

Anyway, after checking around with a few folks yesterday and paying attention here, I am calling in a guy that does commercial work but due to the economic times, is now doing residential. It looks like he blows a white product from John Manville.

Lowes offers a blown fiberglass . 30 odd bags @ $36.00 each...plus the time to go get it, do it and bring the machine back to town....and if nothing goes wrong. Over $1000 total.

If the installer can get me the same results within say, $500 extra ..... then I'll go with that. Its worth it not to have to get in that attic and worry about all the mess.

I make my money building nets not crawling in attics.

As for laying batts, I do not believe I can stay bent over in that low attic for that long. My knees won't cooperate not to mention this chronic case of vertigo I now live with. There is no help per se , so it'll be and the wife fighting stuff up and down a ladder. The Rolux looks and sounds excellent . I am just too beat up to physically fight that cramped attic.

Thank everyone for the advice. Unless something shows up that is really nasty, I am leaning toward the blown stuff for convenience and pricing.

Thank you all again.

I had a contractor do my last two insulating jobs. It turned out he did it for 3 cents a square foot more than I could by the materials at the big box retailers in my area. This was both bat and blown fiber glass.

I have a few questions. Why R-30, how did you come to that number?

Do you have air conditioning?

Is this an older home that didn't come with much insulation?

How well do you think the house "seals up" with all the doors and windows closed?

Insulation is part of a "system". You can't expect the best results if you're only looking at one part of the system. A lot of people make the mistake of adding a pile of insulation in the attic thinking it will solve all their heating and cooling issues. What is the main issue you're trying to achieve?

Its a 30 year old wood frame house.

It has second story added on, wood frame also.

Its been wracked a by several hurricanes but is still basically plumb. No big drafts coming in from any one place.

Windows are double pane but older type and will be replaced.

The R-30 is what the AC guy who installed the 4 ton Trane unit a year ago, said we should have....I have no idea otherwise.

You didn't answer my most important question......what is your goal. Faster cooling of the house, lower electrical bill, what??

Faster cooling and lower electric bill .

I have vents in the attic under the eaves....one large triangle vent 36"x 36"x36" on one end and a wind type turbine on the roof.

Just from recent experience..

I blew about 50 bales into my sisters attic..

No.. I Didn't cover the soffit venting..

I had a friend continually load the (free) machine while I walked the joists and did the work.

I used a drop light to see everywhere as it was blackout conditions.

I was impressed with the coverage and ability to instantly fill the gaps and some wall cavities that were left open by the thin layer of batting that was in place....more or less..

I can walk attics without stepping on lamps, wire, and pipe while blindfolded, so by mornings end.. I was done.. no itch..

The hose could blow into the areas I would never want to crawl into..
(think about that) It looked like a fire hose blowing a thick stream of cotton candy..

The difference was immediate in sound levels and comfort.

I would do this again... easy and affordable..

This is also typical of what I've found in the majority of modern homes I've worked on..

(Blown on top of batting)

...The picture shows what it looked like during a break..

hot work.. do it early! Wear a respirator

That's what I want to hear....sound and comfort.

Thanks for the photo.

What type of insulation did you blow in?

I have about 1700 sq/ft total. How large an area did 50 bales cover?

It was the inexpensive bagged stuff from the Home depot.. Less than $10 per bale.

It was nice that the attic access was in the garage..

The hose that came with the blower just made it to the far end of the attic where I started and backed my way out. (ran it at full speed with no break)

After the break \I went up and shot the rest into areas where it seems a little light.. (not many)

This house in in AZ.. It needed it desperately.. More bags wouldn't hurt either but this was so much better than before..

100 bags would do you pretty well and take about 2-3 hours of feeding/blowing..

..I brought the materials the night before and set up.. then woke up and did it all at once. I've had harder days working in the garden.. aside from the fluff in the air.. it was no big deal... Kinda fun even..

Good morning all

I used to insulate houses, HATED it, blown insulation will settle over time in areas with vibration, California, Florida, etc. So if you go with the blown, go a little thicker to account for settling.

The shredded newspaper is treated with boric acid to reduce flammability.

Helpful tip, put baby powder on before handling any irritating material, it will fill the pores to help keep the itching down.

Also do not cover can lights, fans, or other heat sources,

Thank you for the tip.

I just discovered an interesting thing.

If I buy the insulation and , 30 odd bags and spray it myslef, it will cost $1120 and I will have to go into town to get it, blow it, clean up the mess and return it.

1 good day and part of another lost.

The same insulation, blown in by a local small business operation will cost me $985 for the same amount of bags and same material. Go figure ???