ABS Brakes Will Not Stop Car

Take it to a mechanic. Any vehicle that has sat for that long is certain to have problems.

ABS systems are complicated.

Take it to a mechanic.

Take it to a mechanic.

Take it to a mechanic.

The only thing you have not told us is the make, year, and model of the vehicle.

However, the only thing left is the master cylinder and possibly the brake proportioning valve (if you have one).

This assumes you have correctly bled the brake calipers. Always bleed them from the furthest brake from the master cylinder first, then the next furthest and so on.

Also, a power bleeder is best. I don't like the vacuum -pumps as much as the pressure pumps for the master cylinder, but pressure can be a nightmare is a fitting comes loose. The vacuum hand pumps are better for the shade-tree mechanic.

Pumping the brake is not recommended if the master cylinder is not brand new. Dirt can build up in the region of the cylinder stroke that does not normally get used. When you pump the cylinder by foot the seals run over this dirt and it can cause the pump seals to leak.

Given the age of the car, the cost of a master cylinder, and the importance of brakes, I would replace the master cylinder as a matter of course.

I would also recommend a Haynes Manual for your car and read it well on the subjects of brakes. Any doubt about what you are doing justifies a tow to a real mechanic and let them assume the liability.

The correct term is calipers, take it to a mechanic.

I don't doubt that you can fix it. But, after 10 years, you may need some help.

If you won't take it to a mechanic look at wheel speed output. If ABS senses you are 'not moving' you get little braking.

The bleeding procedure for ABS is considerably more complicated than for conventional braking systems.

It is complicated but not impossible. Time, care, adherence to procedure and patience should see a reasonably capable person with a mechanical bent through to a successful outcome.

There are loads of resources detailing this procedure available on the internet.

Here is one example http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/Brakes/beeding.htm

Here's another http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bleeding.htm

Learning is a journey.

I am surprised it has not been mentioned REPEATEDLY yet.

Take it to a mechanic.

It has been mentioned repeatedly.

However, brakes are something that the average shade-tree mechanic can do. You just need to know something about them and be willing to work carefully. It is not brain surgery, but it does require attention to detail.

There are many shop manuals available at your book store for every car made that guide you through the step-by-step procedures.

If after reading those procedures and you still do not feel comfortable, then by all means take it to a shop.

Apart from make etc (#2) where do you live?

Why the reference to ABS? Do you mean the brakes work, but the ABS doesn't? Doesn't sound like that, but if so, it wouldn't be a major problem, most of us on this forum had been driving for decades before ABS became common. There's likely to be an ABS failure warning light, and with this lit, in UK it wouldn't pass its annual MOT (roadworthiness) test, but it's still safe to drive.

But if the brakes don't work at all, what are the symptoms? Does the pedal go right to the floor? If so, it could be master cylinder seals. If not, do any of the calipers work? Some might be seized, unlikely if they were replaced with new, but maybe secondhand?

Does it have a servo? Does the handbrake work?

Anytime a car has sat for extended time (years) the first thing that should come to mind is fluids, fluids, fluids.

For his car anything connected to the brakes that contains fluids is probably suspect. This may include the brake calipers themselves. Generally the hydroscopic brake fluid will have water settle in the moving parts and corrode the piston linings and bugger up the sealing rings.

Even if it works now it may very well leak/fail in a short time of service. A quick inspection of the inside of the fill tank can often be a good predictor of what is to come.

I have had numerous instances where a master cylinder failure has cascaded to a slave or caliper failure after debris from one have contaminated the other. After 10 years of sitting it is wise to expect and prepare for such things.

I do wish the original poster had provided more information.

I agree with most of that, but I don't think those issues would cause immediate failure, just more problems, sooner, down the line.

Yes, we need more from the OP

If you push the master cylinder through the full travel, there must be a corresponding volume of fluid being bled each time. If you do not get the required amount of fluid out of a bleeder, there are two possibilities.

1) There is air in the system somewhere, and it is being compressed instead of being passed out the bleeder.

2) The master cylinder is not returning all the way to the start position, and in doing so does not push a full column of fluid into the system.

If this does not make sense to you, refer to Lyn's suggestion "Take it to a mechanic."

Good luck.