Inductance Ballast vs. Electronic Ballast

I recommend programmed start ballast for longest life...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=programmed-start+ballast+t8

"Programmed start

A programmed-start ballast is a more advanced version of rapid start. This ballast applies power to the filaments first, then after a short delay to allow the cathodes to preheat, applies voltage to the lamps to strike an arc. This ballast gives the best life and most starts from lamps, and so is preferred for applications with very frequent power cycling such as vision examination rooms and restrooms with a motion detector switch."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast

The price of a programmable ballast from Amazon is comparable to a small voltage regulator here.If I use this combination - voltage regulator + simple electronic ballast. Is it more or less same durability to a programmable ballast?

An inductance ballast is simpler and tougher than an electronic ballast, especially against short voltage surges. Overvoltage will cause saturation effects

If your problem is the effect of overvoltage, it may be possible to get, for example, a 240 V rated inductive ballast rather than 220/230V. The lamp light output will be reduced, this you may prefer to ballast failures.

Amen regarding problems with voltage surges and spikes. When I have monitored electric services with power quality analyzers, the quantity and magnitude of spikes and surges is appalling. I strongly recommend the use of a mid-priced surge arrestor at the main breaker or fuse box. Typically one will include MOV's (metal oxide varistors) plus some other components. The knee on the MOV's curve, between being a resistor and a conductor is a modest margin above the peak voltage (which is 1.414 times the quoted nominal system voltage). In other words, a 120VAC (RMS) circuit has a peak voltage of 120*1.414=170V, and would likely use a MOV rated at 190-200V.

--JMM

The problem you describe is common here in South Africa. Electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps come in various formats ie instant start warm start and now programmed start and qualities 25000,35000 and 50000 hour ballast life.

Electronic ballasts are susceptible to damage from spikes where as the coil of an inductance ballast is more able to absorb them.

My suggested solution would be to use a switch start circuit into which you place an electronic starter instead of a glow starter. A full electronic starter is programed to warm start the lamp and also recognise a lamps 'end of life' (EOL) and so prevents the flashing that commonly happens at this time. The starter does not need to be replaced every time you replace the lamp.

Hope this is of some use to you. G.M.

Is that true different kinds of ballasts also affect the lifespan of lamp? Especially applied in voltage fluctuation environment.

The life of a fluorescent lamp is influenced by the number of starts it is subjected to and the method used to start the lamp. In principal there are 2 methods Instant start (cold starting lamp with a high voltage) or warm start where the lamp cathodes are preheated by various methods;. A warm start is preferable to a instant start in frequently switched circuits as the starting process damages the emission material on the lamp cathode less and lamps stop working when the emission material is used up (you see this as blackening on the end of a lamp). -GM

In addition, typically the non-electronic ballasts keep voltage across the filaments during the entire on-time of the lamp. This is what causes most of the loss of the emission material on the filaments. Longer lamp life, less end darkening, and elimination of filament losses are all cost-saving benefits to the majority of electronic ballasts. Another benefit is the much higher frequency of the arc current in the tube. At 10-20,000 Hz, the phosphors are actually more efficient in converting the ultraviolet of the low-pressure mercury vapor arc into visible light than they are at 50-60 Hz (and the typical flicker you see when your eyes scan rapidly across the space is completely gone). A significant disadvantage in most electronic ballasts is the harmonic noise they put back onto the incoming power line. However, there are newer ballast designs that include fairly simple filtering components--look for ones that are listed with a verified low "harmonic distortion".

--John M.

You can change to the bulky fitting with induction ballast with starter any time. However, this is at the cost of efficiency as induction ballast consume more power. The ballast may use/ dissipate 10~15 watt power per fixture.

The choice is your. However, in current energy scenario, we should use more efficient lighting solutions....

Don't stop at iron core ballasts.

Keep regressing....

Here's an idea

Look for an electronic ballast with a universal input. This is one that will operate on anything from 90 VAC to 260 VAC. Some of the programmed start ballasts come with the universal input. It will make your lamp last as longer than other options.

A magnetic ballast will let the lamp turn off during voltage sags. Lots of restarts will shorten the lamp life significantly.