NEMA 5-15 wall connectors - where to find?

have you tried your local hardware store?

Yes, more than one if you count the box stores. But they typically won't stock items for household use (at least not in this state) which deviate from standards (current NEMA recommendations) for basic non-permanent power connections, namely:

• that an "outlet" (by definition, an always-hot termination) (but what I would use as an inlet connection, via cord, from the UPS outlet) must not have contactors exposed but, instead, recessed...
• so that an inlet plug on a power cord must be inserted in order to conduct current to an appliance, or (in the case of non-hard-wired or extension cord)...
• to a hot (unexposed female) outlet receptacle; and...
• that an "inlet" connector (a plug with exposed lugs) shall never be hot unless plugged into a recessed-contactor connector--i.e., to an outlet.
• Said another way, those rules with which a hardware stores here will comply, assume/demand (for safety's sake of typical customers) that their outlets will always be connected to a loop connected to AC main; which won't be the case with my power network.

Probably for this reason, I've not been able to find a "hardware store" connector which will serve my purpose--be it a wall-box mounted connector into which a female cord termination can be plugged, or a power cord terminated with male plug on both ends...for plug-in connecting between a hot outlet on my UPS and a cold (input) "outlet" on the wall. Neither do I see it as likely that retail stores would offer either, a cord-end adapter or an outlet adapter, with power inlet spades on both (inlet & outlet) sides. (All will have only one male inlet and one or more famale outlets.)

Ideally, the box in my wall would be fitted with a (preferably but not necessarily duplex) connector similar in form and appearance to the NEMA power input on typical, late model computers (but not the secondary, outlet-style connector fitted on some older computer models).

Sorry for the excess verbiage--just hoping to further clarify (for all readers) my dilemma and the thing I'm seeking to accomplish.

http://www.rs-components.com/index.html

Thanks, Guest/#2. I looked around the resource you offered, but it seems my problem is not knowing a nomenclature for any of the items I seek. With the keyword that come to mind, the best I come up with are things like standard extension cords and outlet boxes.

Suggestion for nomenclature and/or approptiate search words/phrases would be gratefully appreciated.

Ok, this is what a NEMA 5-15 is. on the left is the plug, on the right is the socket.

I think I know what you are trying to accomplish, and the only solution I can see is for you to find a very old AT power supply with the male and female power connectors (power in, monitor out), and rob the plug and socket from that. Then you would need to purchase a cord like this one:

and replace one end to match the NEMA 5-15 on the UPS.

it really wouldn't be a good idea to use a "normal" looking plug setup for what you are wanting, due to the confusion it would cause to others.

another option would be for you to locate your UPS close to your mains panel, and run a special set of wiring to all locations where you will be placing your computers, using special colored outlets, or change your computer cords to twist lock, like this:

to avoid the problem of someone accidentally plugging in a regular appliance on your UPS.

Just a couple of ideas for you to think about.

Good luck!

Your pic of the extension cord and mention of AT reassures...that you correctly got the picture of what I seek. In fact, I have a 286 AT machine but, it is still in use; however, it might not be all that difficult to find a scrapped AT with the dual power receptacles.... Here's another elaboration of your "power supply" cannibalization idea, one that could obviate the need for modifying cords, and get around the possibility of "innocent others" inadvertently plugging into my UPS. Rather than remove the AT power plugs, why not simply disconnect from power supply leaving free pigtails, leave the plugs (R type and P type) mounted to the machine's back panel, and cut out a section of the back panel around the plugs? The cutout would be sized and drilled to mount directly (and tightly) over a recessed outlet box on the wall--the AT back panel cutout now serving as a plate over the wall opening and wire connections--the plug slots/spades being turned sideways. If this was done with two ATs, then one could be placed, respectively, for both the UPS input, and the remote computer output, on each wall. Since each metal plate covered outlet would have both P and R connector types, no special appliance cord would be needed. Since the (flat, flush-plated) wall inlets/outlets would not look like (would in all likelihood not be recognized as) standard household outlets, others would be deterred from "just plugging in." The plates could also be painted or stamped, "Caution."

By the weigh, is this a standard 110-volt cord? Look at the prong placements. And I wonder: is this a cord that would typically be used outside or in other potentially damp/wet locations? ....reminds me of cords I've seen used on outdoor lawn/garden equipment; where the barrier around the prongs is, presumably, intended to prevent prong contact/short-ing with water or wet grass. Just curious.

Thanks for very helpful couple of good ideas!

GOOGLE SEARCH.

Results 1 - 10 of about 26,800 English pages for nema 5-15p electrical outlet. (0.22 seconds)

thanks for the definitions reference site; and I hope I was able to avoid any spyware in all those cookies--alas, they caught me at least once, so must keep fingers crossed.

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking, but looking at the picture posted by post#5, its just a single, normal 110V outlet that you can purchase at any hardware stores likt Home Depot, or Lowes.

Question: Can you just use a Power Strip?? You know, the kind that plugs into an outlet, and has a on/off switch, and it gives you 4 or 5 recepticals for you to plug other things into. Would something like that work for you??

MidniteFighter

Plugging into a power strip would be no different than plugging into a standard, NEMA 5-15R (for receptacle) household wall outlet. But it would require a cord with NEMA 5-15P (for plug) terminations on both ends: one plugs into the hot UPS outlet, the other into the wall "outlet" being used as an input to the Romex leading to an outlet for the other computer in another room. The problem with doing this is that the UPS output cord, even a "home-fabricated" cord, once plugged into the energized UPS, would have a hot outlet plug, with exposed metal, on the other end. I or anyone else unplugging the UPS-attached outlet cord from the wall (or a power strip) during an inattentive moment could receive a jolt. (Hence the NEMA admonition against using exposed-prong male plugs as outlets.) Look again at the picture you referred to, and you will see that what looks like an ordinary power-input plug actually has the exposed prongs recessed within a shield extending forward on the plug so as to make it less likely they will come in contact with bare fingers.

Creating a "built-in," wall-&-attic traversing computer power network, apart from reasons of convenience already mentioned, would: (1) permit me to avoid having to dress surface-mounted, stranded-wire (flexible) cord along the walls and through doors or walls, from room to room, and (2) instead allow me to use comparatively cheap, solid Romex, from inlet to remote outlet, across the shorter distance over the ceiling. Coincidentally, in similar fashion I plan, for the Comm network, to utilize CAT5 solid-wire cable (again for a shorter distance over the ceiling) which is substantially cheaper than flexible (stranded-wire) CAT5 patch cable--cheaper because it is not plug terminated, not stranded, and not artificially priced as is the case with patch cables. Hope this clarifies.

If I understand you right, you want a 110V plug that is "shielded" so the blade is covered. Is that right?? If that is the case, you will not be able to buy one off the shelf, you'll have to make one.

If, however, your concern is with the receptical part where the "outlet" is not covered when not in use, then you can purchase an outlet cover that "rotates" out of the slot as you plug your cord in. You can find those at HomeDepot or any baby store (there are make so little kids don't put anything they shouldn't into the outlet.)

MidniteFighter

"If I understand you right, you want a 110V plug that is "shielded" so the blade is covered. Is that right?? If that is the case, you will not be able to buy one off the shelf, you'll have to make one."

Midnight, your first paragraph fairly accurately describes my concern--and I with dismay I agree that I might not find one OTS which is already adapted for wall box installation. However, CharlieR #5 above seems to be on the same track--as far as a user made outlet...so I'll follow up on the user-made approach there.

Thank you.

Try Interpower at www.interpower.com

Will do. Thanks.

Is this the type your looking for if so try an industrial supply house. You may allso find the at a electrical supply. Most common use that I know of is to provide power to chargers on battery driven industrial equipment.

Precisely...and it looks like it just might be adaptable for mounting inside a box or panel! Industrial power chargers, eh? Then perhaps "industrial power charger accessories" is the search string (the "nomenclature) I could try!

Abundant Thanks for the excellent picture.

Whenever I run into a situation where a manufacturer has called for a plug/receptacle combination that is either very strange or has possible health hazards, I have always found it to my benefit to remove the oddball stuff and replace it with readily available or safer devices.

I don't think I would EVER use a device where the male pins were hot whether they were in a shielded sleeve or not. If that sleeve became retracted, poof!. It's still all too easy in the US to stick objects in out female receptacles that can hurt our young ones. I used to be a practitioner of that game many years ago; keys, paper clips, etc.

If you insist on having a removable cord on your UPS, change it to something that connects to existing female receptacles or install a twist lock that your kids can't pull out.

Guest #12,

I agree totally with all your points. Until now I had felt constrained to first develop a feasible concept that works, then modify to it make fail-safe from a human-factors/safety point of view. However, thinking first about safety, before functionality, as you suggest, gives me an idea which might provide a simpler way of obtaining functionality as well. That would be to install a recessed panel, with locking cover in which is drilled an edge-cushioned "cord feed-thru hole". Inside the panel, the Romex wires would be (hardwire) spliced to pigtails of a standard cord (long enough to reach the UPS) with NEMA 5-15P (inlet plug) on the other end. When not in use, the entire, hardwired "network" cord would be stowed inside the locked panel--even if inadvertently left unlocked, no harm...as the stowed cord and plug could never be hot. When in use and plugged into UPS hot outlet, the cord would pass through the hole in the locked panel cover--no way to access the live connection inside. (Perhaps the panel lock could by captive-key type (key can't be removed with the cover open) as an added/"under kill" measure of accident prevention?) This seems easy enough...if a small enough panel box to (preferably) fit inside a 3-1/2" wall cavity can be found. Also very neat and tidy--plus, need a new net connection? Simply connect and stow a new cord. Thanks for the mental stimulation.

W W Grainger item 3D235

Thank you. And, thanks to everyone who responded, I believe I have enough info to run with. Will return if in need of further assistance. Hopefully will be able to photograph...and eventually return with final result. Again, excellent answers from an excellent site.

If you want to run the wiring that way, you can simply purchase a box
with a 'bushed opening` outlet plate, connect a standard 5-15 - 3 prong
plug & cord to your UPS at this point, and wire with romex or other standard
wiring from there on same as a standard 'end of line` outlet.

The cord should be provided with a means to relieve stress at the plate to
prevent any damage.

Otherwise it's quite simple and safe, there being no possibility of 'backfeed` and
the longer third prong of the standard cord connecting the ground before any hot
connection is established.

(You might want to mark the 'remote` outlet in some way to prevent its being
use for another purpose.)

Pragmatist,

Your idea has a certain elegance in its simplicity; and, as I found out today when (finally) finding and pricing an 8-in square panel w/ hinged door (at $25-per for two), would be certainly more reasonably priced--and the outlet box would have an advantage in that it could readily be converted back to standard outlet usage in the future if need be.

I had hoped to able (if need be) to stow the cord inside whatever box was used (especially at that remote interface where unfamiliar hands might lurk) but the definite cost advantage of a simple outlet or ganged outlet box (if they exist?) would likely be enough to compensate for the loss of aesthetics in (sometimes maybe) having an unused cord protruding out the wall. I guess the solution would be to keep those computers or computer armoire blocking view of and access to the "wall ports."

I'm also thinking--since I already have some stainless steel outlet and switch box covers not being put to use--I might be able to use them (and the existing openings) and fabricate a bushing out of an outlet safety ("no touch") plug. At first, only one safety plug would be drilled; late the other could be drilled if a second remote computer was fed from the UPS.

So I will look into the bushing-fitted cover approach as the probably easiest to implement quickly. Or, if I use a regular, rough-in box cover plate (as you suggest), who knows, I might be able to still incorporate a panel and cord stowage into the setup. Thanks for an excellent idea...and for the reminder about the make-first/break-last criterion for plug-ins.

For a bushing/strain relief fitting consider the use of a standard romex/steel box

cable clamp. It goes into a 3/4" hole in your faceplate, clamps securely, and with

some tape or a rubber tube pad at the clamp, won't damage a 'heavy service`

cord & plug set.