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Participant

Join Date: Oct 2012
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Interior Concrete Patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/07/2012 2:52 PM

I am preparing and patching my interior concrete floors to accept new paint. In most of the project the floors need repair from carpet tacks and a few cracks. I was planning on using Sakrete Top n Bond Concrete Patch for these areas. However, and this is my main area if concern,... In one room the floors have been patched previously by a latex ready mix concrete patch. I applied paint stripper to discover this. This stuff is really stuck is some places, but in others it peeled up. Thus the patch is uneven and not suitable. I was planning on etching next. My question is: does anyone have experience with trying to remove a latex concrete patch material? Is it possible to apply the sakrete product over the latex? Advuce needed as I have been painstakingly trying to chisel this off for days with little sucess. Also, since it is sticking well in some areas, now i am unclear if I should use Sakrete or the Latex formula. Thanks a bunch!

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Guru

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#1

Re: Interior concrete patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/07/2012 3:41 PM

Is this what you meant by "Sakrete"

QUIKRETE® Concrete Patching Compoundwww.quikrete.com/.../DATA_SHEET-...You +1'd this publicly. UndoFile Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - Quick View
QUIKRETE® Concrete Patching Compound repairs and fills spalls. (surface imperfections) and cracks up to ž" (6 mm) deep in concrete, masonry, stucco ... acrylic latex formulation for crack and spall repair for concrete, stucco or masonry walls ...

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#2

Re: Interior Concrete Patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/07/2012 9:24 PM

No. It is Sakrete Top n Bond Concrete Patcher... http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Top-N-Bond-Concrete-Patcher

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#3

Re: Interior Concrete Patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/07/2012 9:28 PM

What I am mostly wondering is if I etch the latex material would the Sakrete bond to it? I called the company. Doesn't seam like they have much in the way for techincal support. Some guy named xaiver that likes to answer direct questions with long winded stories. Not much help. Which is surprising as they are big suppliers for Home Depot.

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#4

Re: Interior Concrete Patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/07/2012 10:30 PM

I cannot comment on your "material compatibility" question, but will comment on the mixed adhesion you've commented on.

Anyhwere that the original patch material has not adhered will not be made better by overcoating it with another thin film of material. You will possibly have drumming of the delaminated material. If there is any side load (like skidding things across the surface) this could be very bad.

UNLESS in the case of this being a floor, the covering that eventually goes on top may compensate. (For instance a thick carpet on a thick underlay would be more forgiving than a thin lino covering.)

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#5

Re: Interior Concrete Patch Sakrete vs. Latex

10/08/2012 8:00 AM

I cannot speak for compatibility between the existing latex concrete patch and the Sakcrete. It's too bad that Sakcrete's technical support is so poor. But you get what you paid for, unfortunately.

You can only perform a test area to see if it will remain or if it will delaminate. Problem is that it takes time.

Is the existing slab surface THAT bad that you have to strip it completely? A few posted digital photos would go a long way in helping us in determining if it really needs resurfacing to the degree that you talking about.

Frankly, if you've preceded with removing old topping concrete, then I would continue to do so, The damage is already done and probably unsightly and there's no tuning back now. You could always repair the sections where you have removed the old concrete.

You do know how to find badly adhered concrete, correct? Use a hammer and strike the concrete surface and listen to the retort. If it sounds like a strong "ping", then the concrete most likely has not delaminated. If it is a dull sound, like "plunk", then the concrete adherence is bad and the concrete is "punky".

I do not think that slapping on the Sakcrete will solve your long term problems here. There's always the chance that it will delaminate from the substrate material sometime in the future. There are no guarantees.

How are you chipping away the concrete? By hand? I sure hope not as you'll be there until hell freezes over. Obtain a good size air compressor (from a friend or rent it), an air-chisel, and some High-Strength Steel air-chiseling bits (looks like a wide wood chisel is a sense) that will fit the air chisel gun. Don't forget the eye protection!

Also, if the surface marring is superficial, then I recommend using an epoxy-based concrete floor restoration product that will totally fill in the cracks and tack holes, etc.. Today, you can get this in all sorts of colors. This type of product is generally made for garage floor slabs and basement floor slabs, but I can't see why it cannot be used in living spaces either. The big box stores carry a limited assortment of this product, and I mean "limited". Rustoleum makes it, and so do a few other companies. It's expensive, but does a very good job at hiding lots of concrete cosmetic defects. It, however, will not cure structural defects. The key to any restoration work regarding concrete is ADEQUATE SURFACE PREPARATION. You may have to use muriatic acid to etch the old concrete slab surface so that any product will adhere to it properly.

Are these existing floor slabs located in the living spaces?

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