Temperature Control of High Grade Concrete

I do not have the answer, but some of the Google links below, may help you.

How to monitor and control temperature in order to prevent shrinkage and crack on Grade 60 (60MPa) concrete?

60Mpa is gonna get pretty hot.

Wrapping or covering in hemp (or similar) sacking or old carpets and kept wet is the way its kept cool once cast. If it starts getting too hot (measurable in lots of ways) hose it down.

Will the concrete dudes be adding ice to the mix at the batching plant?

you can use chilled water for mixing(temperature control) this decision usually depends upon atmospheric conditions ie the temperature ,and after the concrete is set regular and proper curing will avoid cracks..

Agree with Moosie for warm weather. If you are dealing with cool weather you'll need blankets or tents with heaters depending how cold I've used blankets in conjunction with heated fluids run through hoses for temperatures below 0 F.

As an aside: Read up on the way they built Hoover Dam. Built a refrigeration plant with enough capacity to make a good-sized iceberg every single day. Circulated chilled water through miles of piping embedded in the concrete. Without it, it would have taken more than a century for that much concrete to cool down enough to be usable. Check it out. Pretty dam good engineering went into making that dam.

(sorry. my bad. I just couldn't resist)

Hoover Dam is not a good example of how to stop both the heat of hydration and the chemical reaction heat that has accumulated in that massive structure. That cooling process is unique to massive concrete structures. Smaller projects like bridge piers of several thousand cubic yards do not have this to contend with. The Hoover Dam with all the cooling installed to remove heat did take over 100 years to reach ambient temperature without the effects of the chemical and heat of hydration. But that residual heat was not enough to bother the usefulness of the dam.

Dont know where you are, but its winter here. Several years ago when working with pre-stressed railroad beams in winter we would cover with plastic and shoot steam in under the plastic to keep from freezing. The previous comments about cold water etc. all seem viable, however, we always poured a small test batch and checked for strength and cracks and that would seem the logical way to go if your unsure of the process. In fact we also poured a small sample of every batch used on the beams to test for uniformity, that way if there was a problem with a particular batch(there never was) we had the option of rejecting the beam as unsafe.

I just wanted to add that in my experience whenever doing concrete work of any kind the concrete supplier usually knows what to use in any given situation.

I'd refer this one to Moosie