Auto Motive Air Conditioning

What year is your Fairlane? Is it R12 freon? Most any compressor can be overhauled. If you opt for that, reseal the whole compressor for R134a freon. As far as your evaporator, unless it has physical holes in it, it probably just needs resealed with new O-rings. At this point, you might as well spend a few bucks more and reseal the whole system to use R134a.

Stay cool

Norm, Contact Rock Auto at www.rockauto.com these guys are great! and the pricing is amazing for a/c kits.

Yes, it is possible to replace the compressor shaft seal and the evaporator rather easy.

If it is the compressor shaft seal leaking there are aftermarket kits available to replace the seal.

In most cases the shaft seal fails due to excessive wear of the pulley/clutch assembly so I would be sure to change both to avoid duplicating the repair in the very near future

The job requires a compressor pulley removal tool and seal removal/installer tool which here in the USA is available for free from many aftermarket parts stores.

The cost to purchase both these tools is less than $120.00 and the pulley/clutch with seal kit should be less than $100.00.

If you go down this road be sure to properly evacuate (vacuum) the system after reassembly and install the proper lubricant in the correct quantity in the compressor before you charge the unit.

Be careful as 134A lubricant is not compatible with R12 lubricant and mixing the two will result in system damage and/or an explosion.

Other than replacing the compressor seals it is usually not worth attempting a complete compressor overhaul as the total cost of replacement parts exceed the cost of purchasing a reliable rebuilt unit from your local parts store.

There's a lot more to it than just replacing the seals.

• What year is the car?
• How old in the A/C compressor?
• Replace the evaporator, it's not that expensive.
• Like the other poster said, convert it to 134a because a can of R-12 is $$$$$$$
• If you convert it, make sure the existing parts are compatible with the 134a and the new higher pressures that 134a needs to operate.
• If there is a filter on the system, replace that too, it's probably clogged!
• My recommendation is if you are comfortable doing the work yourself then do it. You will also need a few very specialized tools to do this job. Do you have A/C gauges? If not, take it to a reputable A/C shop and open your wallet.

Good luck

Bryan

It's not as easy as it looks....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRhry-2OdF0

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ac-compressor-rebuild-kit

I would look around for a complete unit, you might find something cheap....the filter drier needs to be changed as well....change over to a new refrigerant will require new expansion valve additionally....

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ford-ac-compressor

Rebuilding old automotive AC compressors that started leaking out the shaft seal rarely works for a long term fix.

You'll be better off and money ahead in the long run buying a new unit and being done with it along with now having the correct compressor for running a more modern refrigerant.

Thanks Fellahs for the interest. The car is a 6 cylinder 1997 Fairlane Ghia, with only 120,000 kilometres. It's been kept under cover so the bodywork,as well as the engine, is in good condion. As an OAP I'm loathe to trade it in, and saddle myself with a debt I might have probs servicing. I'm fairly handy so I'd be game to have ago fixing it, but as mentioned, whether it would last is another question. Norm.

RAMConsultant, Thanks for adding that in. Sometimes I get focused on a particular aspect and get tunnel vision. True. Spend a f w dollars and prove out where the leaks really are. Nice catch on that one.

Good answer. I put a junk yard compressor on my old '75 Chevy and it lasted longer than the original and a re-built one - still on the car when I traded it in. Also, OP may not even need UV dye - if it's been leaking a while, there may be visible oil present. My Dad had his 1990 Ford Ranger serviced twice. I looked under the hood and saw oil at a connection nut. Tightened it, topped it up and it lasted all summer. If it's still leaking, I'll replace the o-ring.

IF you are sure you going to replace the seals and "O" rings make sure they are

Viton material,which will take the new 134A freon.

Examine the shaft on the compressor where the seal makes contact.

A visible shiny path is ok, but if you can feel it with your fingernail,you have a wear

groove that must be addressed.

Most companies that sell ball bearings and seals also

sell a repair sleeve for just such cases.

The sleeve is very thin,and does not affect any

other components.

Also replace the HI-Lo pressure switch on the freon line, it will be destroyed by 134A.

The replacement should be 134A compatible,but ask anyway before you buy it.

Get all of the oil out as is possible.

Do not worry about any residual.They sell a catalyst that will make the two oils compatible.

Some oils come with the catalyst built in.

Remove the drain plug(if available) and prop the compressor up at a 45 degree

angle,with the drain hole at the bottom.

Your expansion valve will be ok, but you will need a different pressure/temperature

chart to set the proper superheat.

By setting the superheat,you can adjust the amount of freon you are putting into the

system to change the value.

A normally accepted value is 10 degrees F.

Measure this temperature on the return side,as close to the evaporator as

possible,shove it under the black insulation.

A pocket thermometer that has been calibrated in an ice bath is sufficient for this purpose.

Let it dwell there for a full minute,then record the temperature without removing the Thermometer.

Open all the car windows,(if a summer day) and put the fan on high in A/C

mode,maximum cool.

Now look at your pressure gauges,the low side gauge in particular.

Look at you temperature/pressure chart for 134A

The temperature of the return side should be 10 degrees F hotter than the chart

says for that pressure.This is your superheat.

This insures that all of the freon is being vaporized in the condenser.

Liquid in the return line can destroy a compressor's reed valves.

The foregoing assumes you have completely purged the entire system with nitrogen,

tested for leaks with nitrogen, and that the system is able to maintain a high vacuum

overnight.

Be aware that the compressor will cycle off and on while taking freon until the hi side

pressure is high enough to hold the pressure switch closed.

This is normal.

Just keep a check on the high side pressure,and when the switch is

staying on all the time,then start checking your superheat.

It will be high initially,but as you add freon, it should decrease.

Be patient.It takes a little while for the system to stabilize and respond after each

adjustment.

If you can get me a part number for the compressor, I may be able to help with a

cheap spare.

Hope this helps.

Good luck!

ERRATA SHEET FOR POST#9 ON LINE#32 WORD 13.

Substitute the word EVAPORATOR for the word CONDENSER in the posting#9

Thanks!

If the car is a 97, it should already have 134A in it. Also, being that it is only 15 years old, rebuilds will be inexpensive. I would compare the cost of the rebuild kit with the cost of a rebuilt compressor. Be sure to consider the compressor clutch in the pricing. But, do be sure where the leaks are before buying anything. Good luck.

At my shop we dismantle the entire system and flush every hose and component with acetone when switching from R-12 to R-134A. We then blow everything out with compressed air and leave it all apart overnight. We reassemble the system with a new/rebuilt compressor and 134A-compatible o-rings and draw a hard vacuum, which we maintain for twenty-four hours (to evaporate all traces of acetone). We then check for leaks (maintenance of vacuum), and, when the system is proven, add the correct oil charge, followed by a charge of R-134A. Getting one's automobile repaired by engineers rather than grease monkeys might cost a bit more, but what price is peace of mind backed with a great warranty?

This may not be applicable to the OP's question because his system might be charged with R-134A already. In any case, I would highly recommend replacing the compressor/clutch with a new or rebuilt unit rather than attempting to repair the one currently on the vehicle.

my only comment is....

I've priced a compressor at around $240 to $350, which would be okay. Would it be feasible for me to do the fitting of it, and any other bits and then get someone to commission it..? I think the commissioning would be way out my league. What do you reckon guys..? Norm.

Yes, that is possible, but, there are a few things to consider first. Is there any pressure remaining in your A/C system? If there is no pressure in the system, there is nothing to prevent moisture in the atmosphere from entering the system. I know you said your compressor leaks, but is there any pressure at all left? Even 10 psi of pressure will seal out the moisture. If moisture has been allowed to enter, the aluminum components can start to corrode, and there is no way to determine how much, or how long till it corrodes through.

Second, if you want the system to hold the new Freon, you should change as many of the O rings that are used on the components as you can.

Third, all of the companies that sell A/C compressors want the receiver-drier and the expansion valve replaced as well as flushing the system in order to have a warranty on the replacement compressor.

Still, knowing the above information and doing the installation yourself will save you a good share of the costs, if you are up to the task. Good luck.

What are you going to do about your evaporator leaks? Are they at connections or in the evaporator itself?

OK Lads all sorted...! After weighing up your advice, I realised that the project was well beyond my ability. Iam a retired electrician and I would be venturing into territory unknown. So the only option was to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. It wasn't cheap but it was all over in a day. Thanks Lads for your interest and advice. All the best, Norm.