Stihl Chain Saw Problem

Are you sure it's the clutch and not the drive that goes to the clutch?

If you grasp the chain with thumb and finger can you lift it part way off the bar?

IOW is the chain too tight?

Is the engine getting up to speed? Those Stihl engines really need to scream to make any power.

Could it be that the chain brake is not releasing completely?

If it were my saw, I would take it to my local Stihl shop. Those guys have 30 years in business and don't charge very much for good work. It was like $20 parts and labor to replace my clutch.

The oil lines are external to the clutch, so rarely cause a problem.

Is the chain of correct drivelink pitch ? (will not travel around sprocket properly)

Are the drivelinks the correct width for the bar?(wide links bind in bar)

Solid nose or sprocket nose?(fouled bearing will restrict operation

Is the correct clutch drum installed?(incorrect size -poor friction or wrong pitch driver)

How long have you used this machine?

In past history what happened to cause malfunction?

Farmer---Jack of all trades but master of none

And - has it always had the problem (since acquiring it) or has it been OK till the fault arose?

Imelda May - Johnny's Got A Boom Boom

Better to fix the saw---need wood for the winter

Johnnies boom boom wont burn for long

Merry Xmas Folk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHehHLidlcA&index=14&list=PLFC643FB51CE3AEA4

WP

Its not uncommon for people to buy a 12" to 14" saw and replace the bar and chain with a 16" bar and chain. As long as you stay with the small chain that fits the original clutch sprocket you are normally ok. If the clutch was replaced with a sprocket for a larger chain size then you don't have enough power to drive it. Make sure the pitch of the clutch sprocket and bar roller tip are the same as the chain.

It may be time to start sharpening the axe and wedges.

Your signature statement is good.

I created it after having 4 bypasses done and 3 stints,

Is the chain installed the right way around ???

I had a person present me with a bran new electric saw years ago with the same problem , after installing the chain the correct way around and a sharpen( he had really put some effort to make the saw perform) ,his reaction to a saw cutting properly was cherishable.

I was contracting to a powerline distrabution company at the time about 30 years ago in powerline tree clearance and this event is still mused about today as I did not inform the gentlman of the actual solution and he continued to present the saw for sharpens for years to come

Thanks, folks. Here is the deal with the saw: Worked fine when put up last Spring. Fired off with no problem in October up to full RPM, but chain would start slipping under load, seriously heating up clutch. Again, drained all chain oil, new clutch and drum, with same issue. Chain moves freely manually, with correct tension, etc.

I am old school...before chain brakes, so I disable the braking function on the brake bar on a new saw, using the brake bar as another grasp location for improved mechanical advantage when I am under-cutting with wood on top of saw blade. When unloaded the chain blazes along, with no interference from the position of the brake bar; under sawing load, same situation in which brake bar position is irrelevant to movement (sawing problem).

Further thoughts?

Here is my last thought.

Have you tried having it repaired by a Stihl authorized service center?

You don't really mean, "but chain would start slipping under load" do you?

Don't you mean clutch would start slipping?

The chain can't "slip" unless it jumps off the sprocket.

Without knowing exactly what "disabled the braking function" means, I'm inclined to think this disabled brake function is your problem. Dirt, trash, old oil accumulation?

I'm from the "old school", too. But, I'd NEVER disable the brake on either of the two saws I own.

After all our conciderations, how about either replace or sharpen chain properly and get back to us

some Sthil saws I have found to be under powered when blunt, but I do not intend to get into a brand war, most saws when sharp and operating properly perform well

Saw chain teeth are razor sharp.

Thanks to all. This one will go to the Stihl pro for a fix. I will let you know what shakes.

watching