23-Spline 3/4" Coupler

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thank you for the reply. i have searched this site and have not found a 23 spline coupling

Try somewhere else, then. How about www.ondrives.com? You can find anything if you search, like I did, only I won't be doing your work for you, and sooner or later you're going to have to pick up the telephone and talk to someone.

crabtree, thanks for that recommendation, i appreciate it. They did have a 23 spline gear, but I could not find a coupling. FYI: I've been searching for weeks and have talked to several engineers. Finding this part on the shelf with major suppliers may not be possible. That's why i'm out here with you and all the experts. I can get it custom made many places. Happy moaning to you too!

Why 23 splines? What I mean is it sounds like you have a print or parts spec'ed out that you are trying to source in which case there should be some DIN standard to build to in which case any good machine shop or gear cutter should be able to make what you need.

Some shops I have used are:

Classic gears

Rush gears

EEE Machining

There are many many others.

Massey, i need to re-make a connection in a powertrain that has a 3/4" 23-spline shaft. To reduce costs finding the coupling on the shelf is my first objective. custom made is easy but very expensive considering i only need 2 couplings. i may be forced to go that route but i'm going to keep searching for the part a while longer. thanks for your expert advice.

I did a quick search and I wasn't able to find the specific coupling you are looking for.

It appears you will need to have it custom machined. Find your local gear machine shop and have them made. It's going to be expensive too if it's just 2 parts!

Good Luck

thanks so much for searching, i appreciate it.

best,

buck

Well this one has 23 splines but it is 1-1/2" Ø. But you need two 3/4"Ø with 23 splines each.

Perhaps buy one 1-1/2" and cut it in half to make two 3/4" ones. LOL.

http://www.grainger.com/category/spline-shafts-and-couplings/couplings-collars-and-adapters/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-i9g#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fspline-shafts-and-couplings%2Fcouplings-collars-and-adapters%2Fpower-transmission%2Fecatalog%2FN-i9gZ1z0ary6

I understand your efforts to source stock, good luck. It is probably available somewhere.

Not sure whether your looking for spline coupling that fits a 3/4" shaft and the coupling has 23 splines. Or the shaft is splined and it has 23.

Either way check out LoveJoy's tortional couplings

thanks for the referral ozzb i'll check them out. i'm looking for a 3/4" 23-spline coupler that fits a 3/4" 23-spline shaft on one side and a smooth 3/4" round stock on the other.

Dependent on the transmission load, might a one or two piece clamp coupling work for you. Much easier to obtain.

Typical torque capacity would be around 160Nm for that size unit.

spades, thx for your reply. this is interesting. i'm not an engineer by trade and not completely familiar with the specs of a clamp coupling. i am fixing the PTO linkage between the fan and the auger in a 1970's 44" Gravely snow blower attachment for a 4 wheel gravely tractor. It seems that this 23 spline coupler was only used by gravely and out of stock. Custom can be done but very expensive. I will research the torque capacity for this PTO. If i went this route, i'd never get a spline on there again as i assume the clamp coupling would destroy the splines on the shaft. But if i can't get a spline coupling who cares about the shaft. i appreciate your input. this is the original set up. the right, auger side spline coupler is stripped on the inside and just spins on the spline shaft which is still good. the fan side spline coupler has a good grip still.

Cross drill the assembly in two places and use 1/4 inch shoulder bolts to pin it in place.

hello lyn,

yes that is a good idea, i thought using a shear pin would protect the auger gear box and the crankcase which this PTO runs directly off. A definite doable fix. thanks for your input

Shear pins and shoulder bolts will limit the slippage allowed by splines.

But they may be an alternative solution depending on how hard the equipment is worked.

I'm not familiar with the device - never snows where I live - but can you weld the stripped end of the coupling to the shaft of the auger? This will allow the assembly to still be removed via the other end if required.

If, as you say, the other end is still good, you could reverse the shaft and weld it to the fan end if that is more to your liking.

Or do as Lyn suggests. I'm guessing the spline areas will be case hardened, so may be difficult to drill.

spades,

yes welding is a definite choice too. I do like the idea of being able to take it apart tho. and there is some adjusting to the auger as it fits into the blower housing and then lines up with the fan. it would have to be a good straight weld job to allow the auger to line up correctly.

Another thought if you want to maintain the integrity of two splines.

Consider purchasing a larger splined coupling - say for a 1.25" shaft with only say 12 teeth, replace the faulty spline coupling with that - there are reducing types for 2 shaft sizes, or you could have a collar turned up to adapt the coupling to the thinner half shaft. Then have an engineering shop make up an exterior splined adaptor to match the new coupling and to fit over the old spline. this would be welded to one of the splined shafts and you would again have good splines at both ends.

The reason for this suggestion is that it is far easier to machine the teeth on an outside surface. Any reasonable machine shop could do this in a couple of hours using just a mill and indexing head. Much easier than trying to broach the teeth inside the coupling.

It should not be difficult to get correct alignment but if that is a concern then consider a flexible coupling.

What I would do is drill and tap two holes and thread for 1/4 inch 28 thd. setscrews into the coupling.(Not the shaft).

Drill the holes at 90degree angles from each other on the coupling.

Then drill a small dimple,only deep enough to imbed the cup of the setscrew, into the

spined shaft for the screws to seat into.

Use a smal drill bit through the threaded hole with the coupling on the shaft to locate

the place for the setscrews.

Then remove the coupling and finish the drilling with a 1/4 inch drill bit.

Use a serrated, cup point setscrew and locktite red.

It will last a long time if done right.

If they ever strip out, increase setscrew to 5/16".

Then next size up,(3/8) etc.etc.

HiTekRedNek thanks so much for this fix. It certainly seems doable. My only concern with all the drilling thru the spline shaft is how hard is that steel. I'll find out when the machinist starts drilling, or is there a test for hardness before i drill so i know what i'm up against?

The shaft is drillable.No problem.Probably a HSS would work.

If not,use a carbide bit or cobalt bit,but I suspect a standard one will work.

As for destroying the splines,the divots you drill will not destroy your splines.

You will only need to go slightly deeper than the splines to anchor the setscrews.

If you ever find a coupler,it should slde right on as usual.

Why not try a call to a clutch builder? If there was a 3/4"x 23 spline clutch used, he would be able to get you the hub section that has a bolt hole pattern that would allow returning to almost original operation. Welding seems a poor method to me, as any future repairs would be a nightmare. If no spline can be found, I would look to have a clamp on coupling that will clamp around the splines, and allow connecting to fan shaft.

bob, i really like this idea of a clamp coupling. i looked thru the manuals for this model Gravely tractor for the torque of the PTO but that spec is not written down so i'll put a post over at the Gravely Tractor Club and one of those guys will certainly know it. With that information maybe you guys will be able to tell me if the clamp coupler has a good chance of working and which clamp coupler would be my best choice. I'll also investigate the clutch builder. If I could actually put this back using the spline shafts in the blower that would be great as it would always be repairable. if I have to destroy the spline shaft i will, but would like to save that for my second choice. What would the clamp coupler do to the spline shaft?

thx for your reply

The splined coupling is avaialable at the second link I provided,so if you want to stay all original.

$100 dollars or so I think.

HiTekRedNek, i just called them and got an answering service. I'm going to call first thing monday. You know, the spline coupler linkage is actually 1/2"+ too short, if I get 2 new spline couplers i'll be able to cut the 3/4" round steel stock a little longer and then they will go on all the way on both sides for a complete grip. I'll spend the $200 to get this fixed and have it back original.

I talked to a gravely expert last week and this machine actually has a safety slip clutch built into the inside of the auger. It is made to slip just in case you run over a horse shoe, as he put it. That way you aren't shearing off splines and gears. He said it's probably rusted solid and disabled and gave me a detailed explanation of how to rebuild it back to functioning as new. If I get this running that will be a spring project. So for now i'll stay out of the packed snow banks.

I'll keep you posted if the get the part and I can't thank you and everyone else for all the interest and expert advice.

If this doesn't come together with new parts, i've got 10 ways to fix it.

just goes to show there are A LOT of very smart people in this world, and generous too with their knowledge. If we could all just band together i believe we could fix the world....

i want to thank every one who put in their 2 cents, it was greatly appreciated.

best, buck

Jack's also claims to have it.

If you spoke to the Gravely expert, and have connected with the Gravely owners site, they may have another option for the splined shaft coupling.

As for what a clamp on coupling will do, if it is designed for the torque dispensed by your Gravely, it should simply grip it sufficiently tight so as to act as if it is a single piece of steel. No gouges, no slipping, no damaging the shaft. The manufacturer of the coupling will know the torque limits of their equipment.

One more thing I thought of. I have had dealings with what I called "powertrain" companies. They were experts with PTOs, and related products. If you can find one in your area, give them a call. Heck, for what its worth, I can give you the # of one down here. A phone call is a phone call, and everybody ships these days.

Try Broward Powertrain: 954-772-0881. Good luck.

Here are a couple of links to the parts.

The coupling you seek is part number 13216(old number).

The number has been replaced by new number:20117300 CPLG.

http://gravelymanuals.com/pdf/MA115_Snowblower_IPL_0767.pdf

http://www.gravelyparts.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=GRV#/s/GRV//20117300/1

Personally, I would go with the setscrews.